Tech Specs Yescom CONTROLLER KT48ZWSLT-LCD

Connecting the gray wires had no effect that I could tell. No cruise by holding for 8 seconds or more, and no cruise when I jumped the wires momentarily with a wire. I did open it up and verify that they were connected to the board, and they are. Surely they do something?? :?:

Also found and translated this thread in Russia and it seems they reached the same conclusion about regen braking- not gonna happen: https://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=y&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Felectrotransport.ru%2Fussr%2Findex.php%3Ftopic%3D25061.0&edit-text=&act=url

Here is some controller pr0n from inside mine:

KDFuQx3.jpg


3nAFgiZ.jpg


4pgKKvv.jpg


1vX7KdM.jpg
 
Don't think so, as my speeds haven't changed with or without it clipped together. 30mph pretty much is where mine tops out unless downhill and tucked in, then I can get over 35.
 
Looking at the photos from the Russia link I see lots of empty pads. More than likely one of these to ground will enable regen braking. Unless the function was spec'd when ordered, there wouldn't be any wires connected for it and you'll have to do that. That's what I had to do with my controller. It was the X pad on mine shorted to ground that was for regen. Ran it through the ebrake switches. The manufacturer should be able to tell you which of those pads is for regen if you can communicate with them. Otherwise, you'll just have to figure it out. I'd start with the pads labeled X.
 
After contacting manufacturer (chn_1@163.com) it looks like I am on my own:

Hi Eric,

Good day. About Regenerative braking, that is decide by software. So, if your controller without the function, you can`t get by change hardware.

Thanks, Gareth

I also asked about cruise and what the gray wires are supposed to do, but this is all the reply I got...
 
I've never gotten more than one question at a time answered by almost any "support" or sales personnel, regardless of where they are located.

But most especially if they are in China at one of these battery or bike part vendors, then if I can get even one question partly answered, it's a "success". If I send more than one question at a time, none of them get answered, even if they are in a distinct list and very clear. Or they answer a question I did not ask or care about. Most likley a translation issue with whatever software or system they use that gets mixed up with too much information.


Also, if I ask them in sequence, asking another as soon as I get the reply to the first, there is usually no answer, or they answer only the first question again (if I make any reference to it in the second question).



Send only one question at a time, and wait a month or two between them, making no reference from one question to the other, and you might get all of your questions answered. maybe.
 
Mine appears to be from the same manufacturer KT36ZWSM on label
?from http://www.szktdz.com/en ?
Yescom/xcceries sourced it through cnebikes.com who assembled the kit. their site may be useful.
The two white wires that can plug to each other appear to be the speed limiter for the EU
I have a 2 prong female plug off the controller to white and yellow that I can't figure function on.
I have the "Normal" version ( no LED/LCD) and the PAS and its hideous bar mount thingie go into a flat 4 pin plug
after Y-ing in the PAS wire (3 wires)
"Cruise" is NOT prevented by not having brakes lever wired in on my model DAMHIK.
Needs the brake cut off or some other cut off for safety!

I need to find another PAS control switch as the one I have is dangerously bad. When I find out how the one I have communicates with the controller.

?? Do your KT48 controllers with LCD/LED require the display to work ??

I got that impression from the website that I believe the controller came from that made me think it is required.
 
Yes, it is required to make the system "power up". If you twist the throttle with the LCD off, nothing happens. It acts on the ON switch for the system but I assume it could be bypassed, but have not needed to try that yet.
 
onemorejoltwarden said:
I have the "Normal" version ( no LED/LCD) and the PAS and its hideous bar mount thingie go into a flat 4 pin plug
after Y-ing in the PAS wire (3 wires)

I need to find another PAS control switch as the one I have is dangerously bad. When I find out how the one I have communicates with the controller.

?? Do your KT48 controllers with LCD/LED require the display to work ??

I got that impression from the website that I believe the controller came from that made me think it is required.
Click to expand...

The first bit in the quote above, I find very worrying. Can you explain exactly what you've done because it sounds to me like you've wired the PAS sensor to the LED panel connector. What is your PAS control switch? Can we see a photo?
 
Thanks
The PAS switch I have sort of works and is hard to use.
It is inconsistent in its action, hard to know how it is set.
I have to be very careful not to get caught with it activating, when I don't intend it to.
I think I just have a switch that has real poor tactile feed back, sending commands to a system with slow responses.

I need some info on how PAS are set up ,and I have not been able to get a good search on them.
They appear to often use either a 3-way rocker switch or a pulse from a temporary open or closed switch to cycle through serial settings, usually 3 or 5.
The LED/LCD displays seem to have a better switch and better display of settings.

My impression is the LED/LCD requires specific controller wiring, and the LED/LCD systems require a working display for the controller to work.
I'm not sure if strider is saying it serves as an on switch or has an ON switch as a part of the display unit.
I have not been able to prove that the display IS needed or not ,I get conflicting impressions on the LED/LCD version of this unit.
EDIT: more reading searching-> this may be a poorly worded description of some of the controllers needing set up info imported through a transfer cable
for configuration of things like wheel diameter and voltage.

I would be happy just to have a PAS switch that worked, I don't need Cruise.
Current system takes PAS wires(R,Gr,Bl) routes them to switch and sends to 4 wire plug (Y,R,Bl,Wh-> Pu,R,Bl,Bl-wh) to controller
To map this, I need to get the bike in a very stable stand, and get my VOM set so I could monitor the wiring at the plugs, while turning the crank
and playing the switch , a bit multi handed .

If you could suggest an approach or parts to try to sub in, I'm on it.

If the LED display has has known inputs I might be able to substitute that or an alternative switch
if it is a data line ,as above posts note, adding switches may not work well

Thanks again
 

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onemorejoltwarden said:
I'm not sure if strider is saying it serves as an on switch or has an ON switch as a part of the display unit.
Click to expand...
I am saying that for me, it serves as an on switch. The controller does nothing without the LCD powered up, so therefore I have to turn it on with the middle button.

As far as PAS, I do not use it, so I am not much help there. I would really like to have cruise, and may go another route with my controller soon. I sure would miss the LCD though...
 
Right, I understand now. That switch you have is not a PAS switch. It's only a cruise control, which works independently of pedalling. Your PAS function is single level without an LED or LCD control panel. I think that's why your system is not responding how you want it to. If you want a proper PAS function, get a controller with a LCD.
 
Much thanks

I am saying that for me, it serves as an on switch. The controller does nothing without the LCD powered up, so therefore I have to turn it on with the middle button.
Click to expand...

Exactly what I was concerned about.
I didn't want to depend on a display I couldn't replace easily, or troubleshoot.
Whether they needed a working display just for initial set up (voltage,wheel size etc)
or for daily operation wasn't made clear in any documentation I could find.

If you want a proper PAS function, get a controller with an LCD.
Click to expand...

Given how this system works , I would have, and now will need to.
I am saddened by how poorly the "generic controllers" are supported
and how difficult it is to even get the right questions to ask in selecting
better supported controllers.

Any well documented/supported controller sources you recommend ?
 
Update: Well, I must not have given it a fair shake and test before, but on a whim while doing something else (relocating controller under the rack out in the air) I decided to attach the grey wires together again. I kinda forgot about about it, and on the next ride I looked down and noticed when I braked, the battery icon on the LCD was making a "filling up" animation! Sure enough, with further testing, regen braking IS working with the 2 grey wires clipped together. It is very mild at speeds under 20mph, but you can really feel it if you engage it at 30+. I do not yet have a Cycle Analyst, so I have no way of testing how much it is actually doing, but I can confirm that this controller/LCD combo DOES support regen braking.

I will have to do further testing with what I believe is the cruise switch plug.
 
striider said:
Update: Sure enough, with further testing, regen braking IS working with the 2 grey wires clipped together...
Click to expand...
Hi Striider
I have the same Kte-svp12-b as yours, but no gray wires.
Please tell me which points on the Board they are connected.


I'm sorry for my English :( This is not my native language.
Best regards.
 
KT-LCD3 eBike Special Meter User manual.
C13 ABS brakes of the controller and parameters of anti-charge control
Click to expand...

View attachment KT-LCD3 eBike Special Meter.pdf
Without gray wires - does not work :(



And Cruise... - works
Cruise Function
When C7 parameter setting is 1 (see C parameter setting), the meter turns on cruise
function, hold button (DOWN) long to enter the cruise status when the vehicle
speed is more than 7 km/h, and the cruise function logo (CRUISE) lights. Brake or hold
any button to revoke cruise function.
Click to expand...
 
Hmmm, does anyone know if I can upgrade to that LCD3 from a KT-LCD1? I have this exact controller, so in theory it should work, right?

Going to try that down button cruise thing too - just saw that in the LCD-1 manual as well!

One more question - does anyone know if this LCD5 also has the variable regen capability that the LCD3 has? BMS battery's site says it functions the same, except no temp sensor or power display (whatever power is).

https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/740-s-lcd5-lcd-meter-for-s-series-controlers-ebike-kit.html

Edit: I went through the LCD3 manual with my LCD1, and there are no C parameters that you can get to. You can however get to the P parameters and change them as needed. I was able to fix my wife's controller which had a wrong setting for the P2, which is wheel pulse signal setting mode. Hers was set to 1, and it caused the bike to wait about 1/4 mile before the speedometer would start registering speed, and the head unit would even time out and shut off while she was riding sometimes if it took longer than a minute. I changed it to 0 and all is well now, it picks up right away.

I have ordered a S-LCD3, which is supposed to work with the KT controllers, have cruise control, and regen/resistive braking. Will post back with results in a couple weeks, since it's coming from China.
 
striider said:
Got my new KT-LCD3's. Testing to resume shortly. It's frikkin' snowing outside!
Click to expand...
:) We also have snow - very fun to drive in this weather!
c91ceb9b0a59.jpg


1e73d3338d07.jpg


Please don't forget about my request, about some gray wire ;) hope.
 
Hey all
I've a question about setting up parameters on the KT-LCD3. I'm running with a KT48v matched controller and a bafang geared hub rear. The preset value for the P1 parameter ' motor characteristics ' from the factory was 46. Now I couldn't get the motor past 28kph ( sposed to be 38ish unlimited). I adjusted it to 43 (10 pole pairs x 1:4.3gear ratio) which resulted in a slight increase in speed. Then on a whim I set it to 58 to see what would happen. Motor now turns at 38kph ( speedo is still accurate on screen) which is my max motor speed @48v.
So what's the effect of running with an apparently incorrect value for P1. Motor runs fine, speedo on display is accurate.
Is there a problem with this?
How dos the controller use the P1 value.
Cheers
K
 
I have that same one. When i enquired about the grey wires ,i was told they're for regenerative braking. And i think you have to be going 20mph or more to energize. I havent been able to test that out though,because I overheated my controller b4 i could check that.
Also,do you know where to purchase that exact controller by itself. I tried but wasnt able to find that one.
 
I, too, just received my kit from xcceries, with this controller. I don't have the grey wires, but I do have the KT-LCD1 V2.5 as marked on the back. There is no response from the unit, without the lcd installed. The thing that has me confued, at this juncture, is an additional plug, not listed anywhere that I can locate (which is what brought me back here, I've been lurking and learning as a guest), that has black and red wires, and full battery voltage. Any Ideas what this might be?
 
onemorejoltwarden said:
Mine appears to be from the same manufacturer KT36ZWSM on label
?from http://www.szktdz.com/en ?
Yescom/xcceries sourced it through cnebikes.com who assembled the kit. their site may be useful.
The two white wires that can plug to each other appear to be the speed limiter for the EU
I have a 2 prong female plug off the controller to white and yellow that I can't figure function on.
I have the "Normal" version ( no LED/LCD) and the PAS and its hideous bar mount thingie go into a flat 4 pin plug
after Y-ing in the PAS wire (3 wires)
"Cruise" is NOT prevented by not having brakes lever wired in on my model DAMHIK.
Needs the brake cut off or some other cut off for safety!

I need to find another PAS control switch as the one I have is dangerously bad. When I find out how the one I have communicates with the controller.

?? Do your KT48 controllers with LCD/LED require the display to work ??

I got that impression from the website that I believe the controller came from that made me think it is required.
Click to expand...

Yes! This connector being shown with the black/red wires. Is this the power connector and they just added another set of power connectors to mine? Mine has bullet connectors as the power inputs. Odd that these are all the same controller, yet so different...
 
YessCom told me the connector with the black and red wires is for the headlamp accessory.
 
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