the importance of heating/cooling your batteries

auraslip said:
However, for cells cycled at 50 and 55 8C after 200 cycles, the impedance of the negative electrode increases at higher rate than the impedance of the positive electrode. Both primary (Liþ) and secondary active material (LiCoO ) is lost during charging. Thus capacity fade for the cells cycled at elevated temperatures can be quantified as primary active material loss (Liþ), secondary active material (LiCoO / 2carbon) loss, and capacity loss due to a decrease in the rate capability of the cell with continued cycling. These losses will be quantified in the second part of this paper. The capacity fade for the cell cycled at 50 and 55 8C can be explained by taking into account the repeated film formation over the surface of anode that results in increased rate of lithium loss and the overall cell resistance at high temperatures.

http://www.che.sc.edu/faculty/white/2002CapacityFade%20ofsonPart%201%20RamadassHaranWhitePopov.pdf

It's not just electrolyte loss.

The film that develops is because and ONLY because the electrolyte breaks down... It is a film made from decomposed electrolyte. The anode and cathode and separator could call care less if it's freezing or 100c, they just know the lithium moves much more freely when it's warmer.

And once again, you can get a range of electrolyte options from things that break down at below freezing to things that as stable and happy as can be at >100c. It all depends on what the manufacture decided to spec for the electrolyte, which depends on what the cell will be used for. To just pick a temperature and say this is the bad temp is like saying "engines get damaged over 5,000rpm" or something as silly as that. Some engines might be happy as a clam at 5,000rpm, or even 10,000rpm for the whole service life of the machine, and some big diesel engines would explode way before getting to 5,000rpm.

What I'm trying to say, is to just pick a temp number for a battery makes no sense at all. If you were writing a super generalization to cover all batteries, you might make a statement like, "exceeding 50C will accelerate the failure of your batteries", just like somebody might make the statement, "most passenger car engines will pre-maturely wear out if normally operated at over 5,000rpm." It's accurate enough to give somebody guidelines that you could consider 'generally-good-advice', but ultimately the matter comes down to the specific design of that engine (or cell electrolyte in this case), some engines designs are built to barely notice 5,000rpm and wouldn't even be stressed a bit, where some others would be rapidly on their way to the junkyard.



auraslip said:
liveforphysics said:
I could get no ill thermal effects from LiPo even at 400degF with a heat gun as far as a violent reaction. Headways did start to billow flame at 400degF after 10mins though, from the solvents boiling out.

To be clear I am not talking about cooling batteries to prevent venting of the solvents in gaseous form. I'm talking about cooling of batteries to prevent premature cycle fade that has been well documented in lithium batteries above 45C.

I wrote this because you said something about other ill effects from over temp (aside from electrolyte break-down), implying that there was some other worry or concern or possible catastrophic failure mode or something that your batteries are going to experience if they get warm. The answer is, no, their isn't (on modern cells).


auraslip said:
liveforphysics said:
You always want your batteries warmer, for all situations, max range, commuting cycles, racing, charging, etc. It is always a good thing if you are using the battery.

This is true, by every metric a batter performs better at warmer temperatures. Except of course, when it comes to lifespan. Those in the north may be interested in warming batteries, but those of us in the south should be wary of the heat.

No. This if a common misconception. If you're causing lithium movement in the cell (charging or discharging), the least damage occurs to the cell if it's warm. Ideally warm right up to the point where the electrolyte starts to break-down (which again totally depends on the electrolyte choosen.) Charging is the most damaging to do to a cell when cold (it also can't accept a charge as efficiently since it's an endothermic reaction and it needs to draw thermal energy form somewhere to charge. Generally the Ri*I^2 loss can supply this, but I've got a number of charge graphs where temperature drops rapidly on recharge with good LiPo.)

Nobody who is anywhere humans are able to survive the temperature needs to be wary of cell heating if you picked an appropriate pack. If you live in a super warm area, store your pack in a cold room or something if you're not going to ride for long time (and at nominal voltage). But while riding, the pack is going to want that heat, and happily take all the heat you throw at it, and just perform more efficiently and with less stress/damage to the pack.

If you DIDN"T choose an appropriately spec'd pack for your needs, then you can create cell overheating issues that could be addressed by cooling designs. But again, this just means you're using the wrong setup and should spend efforts/money trying to correct that rather than trying to band-aid a way to make the wrong pack work.

If you want to focus on thermal designs in a pack, it's very important, but the focus is all about how to keep the outside cells from getting cooler than the inside cells, and how to evenly get a cold pack warm (and warmed evenly) so you can charge it and operate it with the minimum damage. Every well engineered EV (like Tesla, Leaf, Volt) has sophisticated thermal systems with heaters inside the packs and insulated pack designs and heat-spreaders (or liquid for the Tesla) to keep the cells at a uniform and warm temperature. They also have sophisticated chargers that do not enable charging the pack until first the energy from the charger goes into the heating elements and the pack warms up.


We are done with the days of putting fans and spacing out cells in packs. This was the band-aid to try to get by using the wrong cells for the job, or undersized packs for the job, or whatever. Now the world has appropriate options for EV cells, and they are affordable enough to size the pack correctly for the job.
 
auraslip said:
Also, I should note that, the very inaccurate spreadsheet, when set at the same parameters as doctorbass's test, was only 10 Celsius higher. Not a factor of 10x.

I started rewriting it to re-sample the pack temp 4 times during the discharge cycle, I just need to find some real world tests of Ri at differant temps or a way to model Ri based on temp.



You need Ri vs temp, and Ri vs SOC (if you're looking to model full discharge cycles). It's just another reason not to use the last 10-20% of a cells capacity, but if you do, you will notice the Ri goes up by around 2-4x during the last little bit of juice in the pack as the cell approaches 0% SOC. With LiPo discharge testing, the temp sensor often creeps up only 2-3 deg or so over the whole first 80%, then the last little bit of juice in the pack, then jumps up 3-4deg. But if you're using this part of your cell's capacity, it means you spec'd the pack undersized if cycle life was something you're concerned about.
 
That was a great post - It really clears up a lot.

I really do agree with everything you said except:

Now the world has appropriate options for EV cells, and they are affordable enough to size the pack correctly for the job.

Let me quote cell-man here because his opinion reflects mine:

Don't get me started on low price lipo that turns up with 10% crap packs, relatively short lifecycle and is not classed as a safe battery by any standards. If you asked the Manufacturer of these low price LiPo cells to supply Ebike packs made from RC Lipo, they would tell you they are not safe and not recommended for other reasons also. They manufacture large format LiPo cells for EV, they are not as high C or same type, or as cheap, but they are fit for purpose. I've spoken with the Manufacturer and that is what they did say. Many people seem willing to accept the shortcomings of cheap RC Lipo and enjoy the high performance it offers at a good price, but don't kid yourself that they are truly better value in the long run or that the shortcomings are there, they are real and there is a real possibility of a fire. There are pros and cons, it's not all good.

High level cell manufacturers put a massive effort into testing, QC and process control to minimise the things that are really important to cell performance, like consistency, safety and reliability in the long term. You just will not get that with mid range manufacturers (but LiFePO4 is inherently quite long lived if treated reasonably) and you are dreaming if you think a low cost RC LiPo pack will come even close to being comparable.

I hope that nobody's house gets burned down or people injured because of following the advice they receive on ES related to RC LiPo. It's all very well and good if you have some electronics and electrical knowledge, experience and take precautions, but most do not and frankly don't have a clue what they are doing or the chances they are taking.

Not only that, but my bike can do something a lipo bike can't: It can charge at school, at work, at home, and at a bar. Any one can figure out how to charge it safely with out any risks. Just plug the cord in! Until lipo has that I think many people will be sticking with lifepo4. You may be right that there is NO heat problem with lifepo4. We will see after I get these temp sensors.
 
auraslip said:
That was a great post - It really clears up a lot.

I really do agree with everything you said except:

Now the world has appropriate options for EV cells, and they are affordable enough to size the pack correctly for the job.

Let me quote cell-man here because his opinion reflects mine:

Don't get me started on low price lipo that turns up with 10% crap packs, relatively short lifecycle and is not classed as a safe battery by any standards. If you asked the Manufacturer of these low price LiPo cells to supply Ebike packs made from RC Lipo, they would tell you they are not safe and not recommended for other reasons also. They manufacture large format LiPo cells for EV, they are not as high C or same type, or as cheap, but they are fit for purpose. I've spoken with the Manufacturer and that is what they did say. Many people seem willing to accept the shortcomings of cheap RC Lipo and enjoy the high performance it offers at a good price, but don't kid yourself that they are truly better value in the long run or that the shortcomings are there, they are real and there is a real possibility of a fire. There are pros and cons, it's not all good.

High level cell manufacturers put a massive effort into testing, QC and process control to minimise the things that are really important to cell performance, like consistency, safety and reliability in the long term. You just will not get that with mid range manufacturers (but LiFePO4 is inherently quite long lived if treated reasonably) and you are dreaming if you think a low cost RC LiPo pack will come even close to being comparable.

I hope that nobody's house gets burned down or people injured because of following the advice they receive on ES related to RC LiPo. It's all very well and good if you have some electronics and electrical knowledge, experience and take precautions, but most do not and frankly don't have a clue what they are doing or the chances they are taking.

Not only that, but my bike can do something a lipo bike can't: It can charge at school, at work, at home, and at a bar. Any one can figure out how to charge it safely with out any risks. Just plug the cord in! Until lipo has that I think many people will be sticking with lifepo4. You may be right that there is NO heat problem with lifepo4. We will see after I get these temp sensors.



I agree 100% with cell_man as well.
RC LiPo is RC LiPo. It's not for everyone. It has it's dangers. The QC sucks. The cycle life isn't as good as LiFePO4. You have to build the pack, and you have to build a way to charge. It doesn't hand itself as a ready-made solution on a silver platter like a Ping-pack or something.


But, if you want performance and light weight, it's the best out there. And thanks to HobbyCity, it's dropped from like $5/watt-hour to >$0.50/watt-hour, and the quality and performance has improved by a huge amount.

It is what it is. It will never be right for everyone. A 2,000-20,000watt ebike will never be right for everyone either, but for the folks that want that, at least LiPo exists to enable us to reach those power levels in a neat little compact and cool-running package.

Also, if you ride everyday, and only get 1,000cycles on your LiPo pack, that means you don't need to worry about batteries for 2-3 years. In 2-3 years, batteries will have made such big improvements in performance and price that you will be excited to buy your next batch anyways IMHO.
 
Auraslip,

I'd certainly worry about the effects of parking in 1000W/m2 Texas sun in the summer with a black battery case long before worrying about a bit of heat created in the battery while the bike is in motion and has a cooling airflow going over it.
 
John in CR said:
Auraslip,

I'd certainly worry about the effects of parking in 1000W/m2 Texas sun in the summer with a black battery case long before worrying about a bit of heat created in the battery while the bike is in motion and has a cooling airflow going over it.


Yes. Excellent point John. Your discharge of the battery is never going to do what just parking your bike on a bike rack in Texas does to it.
 
Also, if you ride everyday, and only get 1,000cycles on your LiPo pack, that means you don't need to worry about batteries for 2-3 years. In 2-3 years, batteries will have made such big improvements in performance and price that you will be excited to buy your next batch anyways IMHO.

So true, I'm probably 500 cycle into my ping pack in 9 months, and I'm already ready to ditch it. I made a battery pack calculator today to compare different options, and the weight and price per WH for lipo made me think twice about lifepo4. Then again I just got back from the store, and it took me all ten seconds to start charging my bike. For now I'll just deal with the extra 5lbs and $150 that lifepo4 inccurs. Also, I think 1,000 cycles is a bit optimistic don't you? Sure, if you do a %20 - %80 SOC discharge regimen, but then you almost have to double your pack size...

I'd certainly worry about the effects of parking in 1000W/m2 Texas sun in the summer with a black battery case long before worrying about a bit of heat created in the battery while the bike is in motion and has a cooling airflow going over it.

For my current lawn care bike build, that is my main concern. It'll be outside for 6 hours a day charging and discharging. The battery maybe become hot from that, and THEN the heat from Ri comes into play.... That's pretty much why I started this thread. I'm going to get those HK temp sensors, and install some fans in the case just to be safe. Hopefully I won't need the fans while riding, but definitely while charging.
 
This is because the battery materials expand and contract on charge/discharge (by as much as 10%). This constant “breathing” results in the particles cracking. As a matter of fact there there is data that shows that if you swing the battery to, say 3% (like in a HEV) you can get 300,000 cycles (yes, you read that right). But if you swing them all the way, you only get 300-1000 cycles. So you can charge and discharge them a lot, but you cant let them swing too wide.

Turns out that while a small swing in the state of charge is good for life, its wrecks havoc when trying to estimate the state of the battery. So as a good rule of thumb, every so often (say 2 months), discharge the batteries completely and then recharge them back up to make sure the software can reset the battery capacity and predict run-time better.

Finally temperature. Temperature is a boon if you want to make things faster (reaction rates increase with temperature). But remember those side reactions? The rate of these reactions also increases with temperature and they accelerate the capacity fade. Hence the recommendation to keep the temperature low.

I wonder if the expansion from over heat also leads to this "cracking" like heat cracks in concrete. What are these side reactions he is talking about? In the end I don't trust this guy because he mentions the memory effect in nicads like it is real. http://thisweekinbatteries.blogspot.com/2010/02/battery-rules.html
 
I don't think so. You just need shade while parked. The chargers need ventilation while charging, but not the batteries.
 
Hey guys, I'm about to order some headways, and I wanted to run some tests on them. I'm a little bit new to R/C chargers, but I understand that some can output data via usb. I'd like to be able to discharge them, check their Ri, and monitor their temps. I'm already getting a battery logger for on the road use, but I'd really like to know how Ri and temperature relate. Do you think there is a charger that can discharge batteries at a high enough rate to be useful for this?

Edit:
iCharger 3010B 1000W 10s Balance/Charger can discharge at 30 amps
iCharger 1010B+ 350W 10s Balance/Charger can discharge at 20 amps
iCharger 1010B+ 300W 10s Balance/Charger can discharge at 20 amps

They're all on back order...
 
You may be able to get them from progressiveRC soon.

http://progressiverc.com/index.php?...&category_id=1&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1
There's the 6s one.

Btw, the rating is "Maximum discharge power capacity : 20W", not amps.
I think El_Steak would hook up some halogen lights to his to provide a good discharge load? there are some ways to do it to help out the charger.. surely no charger can do much more than 1a; it is a lot of heat to shed.


BTW some lipo tests would be nice. I finally got the 20c 5s zippys to get warm to the touch by having them dump ~30a continuous out of a little 5ah pack. Although they were right next to a hot controller. and enclosed in a bag.

After they cooled off for a bit, they seemed to perform a bit better.
 
Some battery discharge data here; http://www.elmoto.net/showthread.php?78-400W-constant-current-battery-test-setup

I think only Kokam and A123 data is up, turnigy, EIG, and headway to come.

Kyle
 
neptronix said:
Btw, the rating is "Maximum discharge power capacity : 20W", not amps.
I think El_Steak would hook up some halogen lights to his to provide a good discharge load? there are some ways to do it to help out the charger.. surely no charger can do much more than 1a; it is a lot of heat to shed.

With the iCharger you can put an external load on the positive lead, between the pack and the charger. You then use the Discharge+ mode on the charger.

In my tests, I used 2 x 50Watts 12V halogen bulbs that you can get cheap at HomeDepot or any other lighting store. I simply wired the 2 bulbs in series to get an additional 24V external load (24V is a good match for a 6s pack). You can also add other bulbs in parallel to get higher discharge rates. If you are running a discharge cycle on a full 24s pack, you can simply use standard 120V bulbs in parallel. Its cheap and easy.

I think YPedal has a pretty larger discharge rig with many light bulbs.
 
The ONLY way to do high power discharge with the iCharger line with reliability is the regen discharge.

It's also the most simple to setup and use. Just a car battery and you're set. You don't waste the discharge power in heating, you feed it back into the battery powering the charger.

Only two ways people kill iChargers. They disconnect/interrupt the input power source while it's drawing hard current (which makes an inductive spike). They disconnect/interrupt the charge leads while it's under a high current load (which makes an inductive spike). OR, they try to do the series load discharge function with something that has a lot of inductance, and the PWM flyback kills it over time.

If you use the regen discharge, and make sure you use good reliable connectors, your iCharger will last forever. I've put my collection of them through terrible abuse and never had an issue. If you look on RC groups, almost everytime you see a dead iCharger its from cheesy connections or using a loadbank in the discharge lead.
 
n this report, cycling induced capacity fade of a LiFePO4 battery was studied and cycle-life models were established. Cell life data for establishing the model were collected using a large cycle-test matrix. The test matrix included three parameters, temperature (−30 to 60 °C), depth of discharge (DOD) (90–10%), and discharge rate (C-rate, ranging from C/2 to 10C, with the 1C rate corresponding to 2A). At the low C-rates, experimental results indicated that the capacity loss was strongly affected by time and temperature, while the DOD effect was less important. At the high C-rates, the charge/discharge rate effects became significant. To establish a life model, we adopt a power law equation in which the capacity loss followed a power law relation with time or charge throughput while an Arrhenius correlation accounted for the temperature effect. This model, when parameters were allowed to change with C-rates, was found to represent a large array of life cycle data. Finally, we discuss our attempts in establishing a generalized battery life model that accounts for Ah throughput (time), C-rate, and temperature.

The effects of test parameters (time, temperature, DOD, rate) were investigated and discussed. The results show that the capacity loss is strongly affected by time and temperature, while the effect of DOD is less important at a slow discharge rate, e.g., C/2

I really wish I could afford the $40 so i could understand if this is applicable to us. Any one have access to a data base that includes this article?
 
auraslip said:
I really wish I could afford the $40 so i could understand if this is applicable to us.[/url] Any one have access to a data base that includes this article?

I can get to it tomorrow. What, specifically, do you want to know from it? There's a lot in the article.

Cameron
 

2.2ah a123 cells de-rated to 2ah

My girlfriend got it though her university. I guess they can afford better databases then my community college.

I kinda wish they did more tests at 25c.

Very interesting. How can we use this to model our our a123 packs and similar lifepo4 packs? Can someone help me? What is B, E, and R? I really like how they disregard DOD, and instead use Ah through put. It makes much more sense.

2.2ah cells taken to %80 dod = 1.76 ah x 852 cycles is 1500 ah through put. At this rate capacity loss is %2, %8, and %15 for 15c, 45c, and 60c respectively.

In any case, this should put to rest the assertion that heat doesn't affect cycle life. 45c (113f) may seem like a lot, but in texas it can get to 90f 6 months out of the year. Combine that with heating from the sun on lipo duct taped to a frame or a battery in a black trunk bag, and heating from Ri.
 
Well I got the dual thermo set up. One temp sensor taped to the outside of the battery. Once sensor dropped down the center of the ping.
EwmuBl.jpg


the results don't look so good. On my first trip:
Ambient: 74f
Battery internal start: 76f
Battery box internal start: 76f
Average amp draw: 30 amps
Total Ah: 14ah
Range: 16 miles

Battery internal finish: 92f
Battery internal temp delta: 16f

I was slamming it on this trip, but it is rather cool outside. I wonder how it's gonna be when it's 100f outside. Hopefully the decreasing Ri will keep the delta T from being to large.
 
You might be in a range that the cells like to be. If they use high-temp solvents in the ping cells, you could be golden. :)
 
At 5c you get more Ah out of the Headway than the A123. 88.9% of the 1C spec, compared to the headway at 93.3%. That's QUITE a difference.

So, it seems, the heat can decrease the IR of a cell, and when it does, the losses are decreased. The chemical reaction also speeds up inside a cell. I think those are at least 2 things that factor into the cell having a higher Ah capacity at the same C-rate.

This is interesting. It appears heating cells provides a substantial performance boost. If I ever get into racing, it seems heating a pack is a good way to get an edge. For daily use though, it'd be good to strike a balance between performance and cycle life.
 
neptronix said:
Also, who lets their house get to 95deg? or goes riding in the sweltering sun? i don't.
I guess lifepo4 could be helped out some by cooling as it is often used close to it's discharge rate limitations by us.

Seriously? I bicycle commute in the summer - it's not unusual to have 105F rides when I get off work at 5pm. Stay hydrated, put on some sun block and shower when you get home. It's not that crazy.

If I can go out in that weather and survive, I damn well expect my batteries on my upcoming electric conversion to handle the same thing.
 
Back
Top