Lapwing said:
After a quite a bit of searching I found that highly accurate non shunt DC current sensors do exist. Almost all the Hall-effect ones are in the 1% accuracy level, but I found one type way better. It's not Hall effect.
.0096% for the 150A version. Now were talking!
http://www.lem.com/hq/en/content/view/163/152/
http://www.lem.com/hq/en/component/...serie,IT 150-600 S/output_type,instantaneous/
http://www.lem.com/docs/products/it 150-s.pdf
http://www.gmw.com/electric_current/Danfysik/866_867/documents/866-600_Installation_Package.pdf
Is the output of something like this, feeding a microprocessor the start of an accurate juice meter? (After searching prices for ULTRASTAB I came up with nothing. company was previously Danfysik before LEM bought them)
How would you use a sensor like this to keep track of the battery state of charge?
A/D conversion? Microprocessor suggestions? Logging/storage Software strategies to maximize accuracy?
I'm working on something quite similar. What you've found is interesting, but there are a couple of design issues.
First, these closed loop sensors require an additional power supply, typically, and in this case both positive and negative 15 vdc. A little DC to DC converter will do it, but further complicates the problem.
Second is the voltage level at which you measure this. You have to run it into an A/D converter at some point. These devices you cite can put out 200 ma typical into a max of 5 ohm,s or in the case of the 600 amp unit, 4 ma into 2.5. That's basically a current output into a measurement resistor that winds up with a 1 volt signal for the rated current.
I'm using an Arduino, but I would say the majority of Microcontrollers have a single polarity 0-5v AD converter. And it's not terribly great resolution. A 10 bit A/D will give you 1024 discrete levels to represent that 5 volts. With a 1 volt input, you wind with just 256 of those. Amplify it? Yes. But then you have whatever THAT circuit does to it.
Finally, it varies plus or minus 1 volt around zero for currents in two directions. My A/D goes from 0-5 volts.
I'm actually using a LEM device. It's a LEM HASS 200-S. It puts out about 2.5 volts at 0 amps, and varies up to 5 volts on the high side and down to zero on the low side with a 10K load resistor. You have a little more flexibility with the load resistor too. If you're microcontroller is a 3.3v system, you simply plug in a different load resistor value.
Ive found it remarkably accurate to about an amp compared with a power supply and load system putting out the amps between 0 and 200 amps. From 200 to 600, it will be well accurate enough. My concern is at the low end. My thought was to use a 50 amp version and the 200 amp and if below a certain value, go with the 50 amp, if above, go with the 200 amp. But the 200 amp is fairly accurate. I'm getting about 1.5 amps per ADC increment. I could do a bit better than that with the 50 amp on the low end, but it looks good enough.
My take on it is that the granularity and output scaling to an A/D are the overriding issues. Oh, the LEM HASS 200-S also uses a SINGLE 5vdc power supply, which is just a wire from the Arduino supply which is 5v. The current load is very low.
I think that AH counting is about the best we can do for battery SOC. By using a microcontroller, I can take various actions. For example, drive a relay to switch teh throttle output across a voltage divider to cut its value to 25% normal (full throttle 25 mph). At another level, I can send a signal to the controller shutting it down.
The reset is going to be pretty simple - a doorbell button. I'll "fully" charge the pack to the definition that suits me, and reset the Microcontroller when I do that. That's basically how teh current EVision we use works, and while it is a step, It's an easy one. Our Brusa charger also lights a green LED on a successful completeion of a full charge. I could just as easily use that signal to reset the AH, such that it only resets on a "complete" recharge. I'll not likely bother.
I'm also going to interface a small GPS module to the Arduino. I think what most Oprah watchers are wanting to know is HOW MANY MILES CAN I GO. A lot of cars have this now, and it varies in accuracy. I've left town in the Cadillac showing a range of 192 miles left. On a drive to St. Louis, 75 miles later it is showing 262 miles left. The RATE of burn changed on the highway in relation to the miles. So it is I suppose "inaccurate" but I find it useful anyway. By calculating distance travelled against AH used, you can project Miles to Empty based on what's left. Sure it's a wag. But we don't even really have a wag.
Most of it is working pretty well at this point. Spitting text out a USB port. The next phase will be displaying it in some sort of graphical format. I'm leaning toward a Linux Picot ITX box hooked up to one of these motorized 7inch screen stereos with touch screen and VGA input. But I've also been toying with the idea of linking it via Bluetooth to one of these new Motorola Droid Android phones. It's got a nice display screen, a great SDK/API for programming, and good bluetooth. I think I can get em to talk to each other ans show some little gages on the screen - maybe several screens.
Jack RIckard
http://evtv.me
The LEM HASS is available here http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?lang=en&site=US&WT.z_homepage_link=hp_go_button&KeyWords=HASS+200-S&x=0&y=0 at $26. I used a piece of copper bar as the conductor and mounted it in a box with the arduino with two heavy terminal bolts on it to hook cables up to.