Tires - Balloon/Urban type

I also prefer blackwalls or skinwalls based on looks. Gumwalls and whitewalls make me sort of want throw up a little in my mouth. I just ordered some 27"x1 3/8" skinwalls for my road bike to replace the 27"x1 1/8" gumwalls. I think 1 3/8" is about as balloony as 27's get.

BTW Is there some sort of ride quality or performance difference between gumwalls and skinwalls?
 
Don't have much experience with those tires but I do remember that gumwalls seemed to deteriorate fast as I had them on a road bike; back in my younger days. Found this from a website:

Many bicycle tires are "gumwalls" or "skinwalls." Gumwall tires have tan sidewalls, with no carbon black. This may make the sidewalls slightly more flexible, reducing rolling resistance. It is not clear to what extent this makes a difference.

Skinwalls have either no rubber on the sidewalls, or a very thin layer. This, too is an attempt to make the sidewall more flexible and reduce rolling resistance.

I will say that the "Hank" slick tire that I use has super thin sidewalls. Thats why it wrinkles if you let too much air out.
 
Ah I guess I have my terminology mixed up. I've got 27x1-3/8, 700x40, 26x2.125 and 20x2.25 tires on the ups truck over to me. Hope I ordered all blackwalls!
 
Wow. I don't know what I hit but somehow I got 3 sets of huge gash marks on the rear tire all in parallel. Luckly its right on the corner of the tire where the thickest part of the rubber is. No blowout. Tire still ok I think. I did switch to a panaracer "double thick" tube awhile back for the rear tire since it gets the most gashes.
 
D-Man said:
Wow. I don't know what I hit but somehow I got 3 sets of huge gash marks on the rear tire all in parallel. Luckly its right on the corner of the tire where the thickest part of the rubber is. No blowout. Tire still ok I think.

Badger attack ....
 
2.3 inch downhill tires & tubes work for me. I have some Kenda 2.35's as well. Snug in the forks! But I guess the weight trade off is better than the weight of a dual suspension bike? I am not sure about this, but those rear shocks can be heavy. I would like to try a dual suspension bike, maybe this summer!
 
Badger... Heh Heh. Actually I found the culprit:

Also, just glued up the slashes on the tire. Used rubber adhesive. Can't really tell now.
 
I've tried tire patch cement on slashes without success.
The constant flexing just pulls it apart again & ingests sand & small glass shards into the gap that I periodically fish out.
If you do find anything that works I'm definitely interested in giving it a go.
 
Toorbough ULL-Zeveigh said:
I've tried tire patch cement on slashes without success.
The constant flexing just pulls it apart again & ingests sand & small glass shards into the gap that I periodically fish out.
If you do find anything that works I'm definitely interested in giving it a go.

I know what you mean. I tried it on regular slits and it doesn't work. But these were like razor blade slashes that stayed closed. I had to deflate the tire to take the picture that was above. Here's a couple pics:
 
Update: Got 2400 miles on the Big Hank tires. Around 3 flats. I've pumped both tires up to 30psi now that some of the roads have been fixed and also adding the suspension fork.
 
For little slits you could try rubberized CA glue. I have never tried on a bike, but it works wonders on RC cars

http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/VDD-GLUE.html
 
I just put a set of Bontrager Urban Earl tires on my ebike - it made a *BIG* difference. I was running a set of Michelin Transworld City tires, 26x1.85 - I needed to pump them up quite a bit, and they gave a harsh ride. The Bontrager Urban Earl tires are 26x2.125, and I am running them about 50 lbs. pressure - road joints and cracks in the bike path pavement are no longer bone-jarring, bike-breaking events.
 
Looks like they raised the prices on Bontrager Hank. Was $19, now $27 for the 2.2. Just like gas prices, now tires. :roll: :roll: :roll:
 
What are some options for a 20 inch wheel besides hookworms?

Bontanger looks like only 26?
 
from March of 2007, page one of this thread:
Reid Welch said:
I put these Bontrager 2.5" Big Hanks on last summer.
They're grippy, silent and easy riding.
The sidewalls are thin, very thin (less rolling resistance, right?)
The cap is not very thick either. I'd -think- these tires could punture easily;
so far, no problem!

Their big bald appearance is strikingly good looking in person.
People who see the bike often ask about the tires; they like them.
And they are relatively fast and very easy rolling. I can and do go on turf and hardpack. The crossection is wide enough to help float the bike on sand---if I'm careful!

Slicks rule though, on pavement, wet or dry.
The fenders barely fit. I've since taken them off.
The OEM tires were Kenda Flames. They were thick, rough riding, and just no fun compared to the quiet, cushy Hanks.
Update. The tires are fully three years old, but have only about 750 street miles on them.

They remain in look-new condition in every respect. I still love them. Put them to the new Stealth Cruiser Submarine bike project;
and get this:

Because my new-bike is coaster brake only, and Ezee-wheel (36V) front, and because my 150lb of body mass is heavily biased to the rear,

and because there is NO front brake on this new ebike, I can and do run the Big Hank, the front, at a mere 10PSI.
It rides manually just fine; almost as easily as if it were aired to 20 or 40 PSI.

But, at 10PSI front (you cannot do this if you have a front braking system or super-powered front hub motor),
the Big Hank SUPERBLY soaks all road shocks. I intentionally hop on and off curbs and blast over rough, tree-rooted turf,
and never worry about a pinch flat: that front tire is so lightly loaded, that 10PSI is fully adequate, and gives the best ride:
no bounce, no jounce, and the only sidewall wrinkling is of the harmless sort: as when the tire acts like a front shock fork.

----
Got a new bike the other day. See the silly, odd but fun, Trek Lime?
Gonna put Hanks onto it. I will never ever run treaded tires again for street pavement work, wet or dry: slicks rule,
are so quiet and stable. HAVE NOT had a gash, cut or puncture, but our roads are pretty darned clean.

Factoid: a super-soft tire like my front Big Hank, is much less liable to glass-cut, due to its softness: glass does not get crammed into the compound, but merely passes on by.

For the Lime: It has insufficient front fork width to take the 2.5 Big Hank.
So instead I will get the 2.2 Hank. The rear? Will take the Big Hank, no problem.
Thinking I will be running 15 PSI front, and 20 to 25 PSI rear on the LIME fitted with Hanks.
Will experiment with higher and lower pressures, of course. But Hanks DO ROLL very easy, even if softly inflated.

Like said: if I have a puncture history (none so far), or terrible, glass-sharded roads, I might have to use heavier tires.
But I do not like the standard Bontrager (Trek's house brand) "balloon" tires on the Lime at present. They are OK, but
heavy, treaded (don't want no stinkin' tread!), and not particularly cushy at their present LBS-pumped 30 or 40 PSI
(I have not checked the tire pressure of the one day old LIME bike).

SUMMARY: for those of us who can make do with Hanks or Big Hanks, great. They are fine tires.
And IF you don't have a front brake (well, you ought to have one, but I don't and won't), you need not air the front tire hard at all.
If you have a front brake, there is where the great strain goes when braking hard:
the Hank or other supple-sided tire must, in that case, be aired hard enough that it should not wrinkle like great granny's chin-wattles.


Golden rule for tires since day one: sit on the bike or look at the antique auto: the tires should show just some minor flattening at the contact patch.
This gives you your rubber-to-the-road, and air cushion, for which aired tires were invented in the first place.
Over inflation reduces rolling resistance slightly (see Sheldon Brown and Jobst Brandt's writings), but at the price of harsh ride
and possible crotch-crunching. :twisted: I like my things round and soft and un-crushed. Wrinkles don't much matter.
FIN: BIG HANKS OR Regular HANKS FOR ME, forever.

Thanks go to all here, but particularly to the thread starter, D-Man, who made this compendium of practical tire-choosing, and it is proving to be eternally useful.

____________

many little edits at the time of composition :oops: because I always make a boatload of typos and other errors
 
[..
 
foreshortened quote of the above
D-Man said:
chet said:
...Draw your own conclusions. Happy Riding! :mrgreen:
Yes! It's all about happy riding and making OTHER people happy while you're enjoying life.

Again, my most tender, homely video. Happy day, this was:
[youtube]UwMZp2sAiEU[/youtube]

Cheers, all,

10PSI-tired Reid fitted with a 2PSI head-unit


_____________________________________________
 
HAVE NOT had a gash, cut or puncture, but our roads are pretty darned clean.
Factoid: a super-soft tire like my front Big Hank, is much less liable to glass-cut, due to its softness: glass does not get crammed into the compound, but merely passes on by.

Amazing you had no punctures yet Reid. Your streets must be perfectly clean. I've had about 8 flats. Most on the back. Most from thorns. One big one from glass on the back. The smaller pieces of glass don't seem to penetrate enough to pop the tube. We need more street sweepers. At least they are long wearing tires so far. Its very easy to fix a flat for these tires. Again, no tire arms needed. I talked to some serious road bikers once and they said they have to replace their tires after about 1100 miles.

Current tire gash count:

Front tire- 8 gashes- 3700 miles and still going

Rear tire #1 - 31 gashes + (sidewall damaged)
Rear tire #2 - 12 gashes
 
D-Man, I am with you.

Everybody will have differing results.
For instance, there are NO thorns on our roads.

Broken glass? Only to be found on the causeway bike path leading over the Bay to Key Biscayne:
drunken day-beachers and boaters, tossing their Heinekin bottles, bottles of clear or green or brown not clearing the bridge wall.
That path is absolute death for any normal tire. I won't ride that path; I'd go with the cars adjacent.

Yeah, I have been lucky. We in Florida don't have frost-freeze-thaw cycles, so, potholes are rare here.
Tree roots under some of the side street pavements can give a little jar, but such bumps will not harm a tire or rim.

I can and will continue with Hanks...but if I lived in "Thornizania" or "Torontobottlesmacked",
I'd be riding thick, heavy, Apples or something with majorly hard, tough compound, and suffer a harder rolling ride.

Flats suck. God, have any of you ever had to change a Model T clincher tire's tube, at the side of the road, at midnight, in the dark? I sure have, at least twice! Prybars, tire irons, uniquely obscene language, is how you get a fabric-beaded clincher off an old, steel rim.

Bike tires are EASY to fix their flats, in comparsion against what our ancestors put up with.

HORSESHOE NAILS : most lay harmlessly-enough on their long sides, but....

HATEFUL PEOPLE, resentful, first of bicycle "scorchers" of the 1890's. You know what they commonly did?
Upholstery tacks, the button head type, made of die-cast with a sharp, half or three quarter inch long nail protruding!


Just click it and feel bliss for your easy life of biking today.

WHEN you toss and scatter these about, they, by their heavy-headed nature, stand their points UPRIGHT,
to kill all bike tires, and later, horseless carriage tires. It was an evil, rural sport of the poor people, who
so hated that their old Dobbins were, at times, startled by a "ding ding! coming by, please."

"HEE HAW". A mile later, the farmer leading his draft horses, would doff his cap, dourly, at the forlorn, thorned Wheelman,
off of his steed, and purple with rage in the face. HE, flattened, futzing with plugs and "slime" of the day.
No castigations nor words would need be uttered. He knew, they BOTH knew who put those tacks on the road!

You all do know that "Slime" compounds are as old as the aired tire? Some practical men swore by injecting a watery paste of Wheatina cereal-slop, into the single tube or clincher bike tire's inner tube. Single tube tires remained most popular for a number of years.

~~~~~~~~~~

More trivia, but it is not trivia, really. SLIME may kill you some day, at your high speeds, in particular. Re: Jobst Brandt.
Do the google search yourselves? Mr. Brandt yet lives, and is the antithesis of "Slime"; he will save your cycling life
if that be at all possible.

The home-made slime of, say 1896, in conjunction with rubber buttons,
much like the compound used to repair today's tubeless tires, poked into a puncture,
one or the other, or both, worked great;
cost but next to nothing in the case of Wheatina, other than
Baby, two, going a bit hungry, deprived
of its full fill of proper breakfast!





Ah, the bad old days..... :twisted:
 
Reid Welch said:
More trivia, but it is not trivia, really. SLIME may kill you some day, at your high speeds, in particular. Re: Jobst Brandt.
Do the google search yourselves? Mr. Brandt yet lives, and is the antithesis of "Slime"; he will save your cycling life
if that be at all possible.

Maybe that's why they are on perpetual 80% discount..
http://www.nashbar.com/bikes/Product_10053_10052_500084_-1_200327_200276_200520
I think these come with the stuff inside. Was thinking about picking some up.. probably not if its going to kill me though.
 
I don't run slime tubes anymore. They make the tire go out of balance with all the heavy slime inside.
 
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