Tornaro Bighit Review and Upgrade

Kiwi

1 kW
Joined
Sep 1, 2009
Messages
321
Location
New Zealand
This bike has been purchased by a client as an off road bike. He chose this bike because of its mid mount motor and the ability to drive through the gears for higher torque at low speeds. He felt it was a more elegant solution than a mid drive kit like an Elation or Cyclone motor.
Ezee-Image_template.jpg

The bike has come in to EVLAB brand new for upgrades to make it more usable as an off-road machine.

Review of the standard bike.
The Tonaro Big hit is available in New Zealand for about $2000. One of the lower priced e bikes on the market.
The model purchased is the lowest spec in regards to componentry, suspension and gears. In Europe they produce much higher spec bikes. They claim the 200w mid drive motor to perform the same as a 500w hub motor. Hmmm.
motor.jpg


First ride impressions.
The bike is set up with pedal assist. You have to pedal for the motor to cut in. Not good. Any mountain bike that has this already shoots its self in the foot. You need the motor to get started on a hill, and the fact that it take 2 pedal revolutions before it cuts in means you often find your self stalling and rolling backwards before the motor provides any assistance.
However, once the motor does cut in, its all on. One speed, full throttle. In low gear, the bike climbs superbly with no effort from you. A definite advantage over hub drive motors. For slow speed mountain trails with steep climbs, a mid drive geared system is the way to go. After 2nd gear however, I see no real advantage over the hub motor in performance.

Another big downfall of the pedal assist set up, is because the bike is always full throttle, you are making full throttle gear changes. SLAM!, SLAM!, SLAM! go the gears as you shift through them. Bike clusters were not designed for this. Any review that says the gear changing is smooth is rubbish. Other models of this bike use the Rolloff internal gear hub, that would be many times a better set up than a cluster. A fix to this issue is to fit a hand throttle, which we do in our upgrades.

The motor and gearbox appear of good design and robustness. The motor is very smooth and basically silent once at speed.

The controller is a tiny little 6fet controller, 15amp, with 50v capacitors, so limited to 36v batteries. It is possible to use a throttle with this controller. You could also up the current to 20amps and be ok.

The bike tops out at 32km/h with the restrictor removed on the stock 36v battery.

The battery is a Lithium Ion prismatic cell 10ah. It is a low cost, mid performance battery. Very light, but has considerable voltage sag and I would not expect more than about 500 recharges before the performance was unbearable. However, it works well for this low power set up.

The bike frame is Aluminium, and very basic. Reasonably good style frame but lacks any production finesse. No progressive linkages and the rear shock, is a shock absorber, rather than suspension. The front shocks are your low cost rock shocks, that work ok with various adjustments and fine for light off road use.

I think the term, light off-road use is appropriate for this bike. Trail riding, smooth tracks and 2" high jumps.

As a stock bike, the performance is usable and the bike would make a great weekend electric bike, or road commuter. An upgrade to a hand throttle and immediate start, rather than pedal start would make the world of difference to the usability of this bike.

EVLAB upgrades.

The 3 core upgrades asked for to make this bike perform much better were, immediate start throttle, the ability to run a 48v battery, and cycle analyst computer.
Rewire.jpg

We set out by removing the stock interface, pedal assist sensor, controller, basically everything but the motor.
I retained the wiring harness that goes through the frame, though put new plugs on it. Be aware, the colours going in on end are not necessarily the same colours coming out the other! The stock wiring of this bike was poor, with many wires pulling out of there crimps with little force.
Crap-wires.jpg

A new infineon 48v 25amp controller was fitted with cruise control. A thumb throttle was fitted along with a large screen cycle analyst. Also we have fitted a temperature monitor to the motor to see how well it handles 48v.
Cycle-Analyst.jpg

temp-monitor.jpg


The bike is a million times better with the thumb throttle. You can now start half way up a slope, hit the throttle and off you go. With the 48v battery the bike will pull a wheelie, how ever that is over pretty quick as the motor reaches its top speed in a second. Now with the throttle you can let the power off and make smooth motorcycle style gear changes.

Top speed with the 48v battery was 40km/h. The bike was climbing most hills on the road at about 30km/h, step hills at 20km/h. I rode up a track in the bush that all my hub motors stall and this kept going until I lost traction. At 48v I think it would climb almost anything, though 30 seconds full power climbing will get the motor quite hot.

On the standard 36v pack, now running more amps, I can manage to get the motor to stall going up the bush track.

In summary, at 48v about 20amps, this bike comes alive. The performance becomes usable and fun.
However, this bike, even with the upgrades has not won me over hub motors. I would still choose a Nine Continent 2808 at 48v 25amps for the sheer smoothness and acceleration. But for tight track work and slower riding, this bike would be great and will still be going up when the hub motors had stalled out.

Recommendation.
Buy as a light use trail bike or commuter. Make the modification to hand throttle. Enjoy.
 
Great review!

This was my first eBike and I admit I was quite disappointed. Mine was quite noisy and I am surprised ypur motor could handle the higher voltage. It was also a pretty heavy beast. I wonder how much power the transmission could handle.
 
thanks for the great info and review. I got a tonaro just last week and though it seems to have loads o torque the top speed aint great - though it should be legally restricted to 15mph. I removed the magnet on the back wheel sensor and this has slightly improved the margins but not by much. Rather than getting a bigger battery I thought bout fitting a larger pedal crank wheel as the wheel cassette is already pretty small - in aid of improving the speed a little. Have ordered a throttle already. Otherwise its heavy and bit ugly but a nice enough bike.
 
on the upgrade-igo told me the in stock 2012 are 250w motors witn a new throttle for instant starts.when you installed new controller and 48v battery pack did it fit into the stock frame? would not want to start hanging parts off the frame with tie-wraps or duck tape what battery pack did you use volt and amps please ping?ed
 
why did they do that-their fame was direct drive,worm gear to crank, center mount ,no brCKETS,NO XTRA CHANES,SPROCKETS ECT,now the just joined the masses.ed
 
edaz40 said:
why did they do that-their fame was direct drive,worm gear to crank, center mount ,no brCKETS,NO XTRA CHANES,SPROCKETS ECT,now the just joined the masses.ed
:?: :?: you do know what a Nuvinchi hub is ..i assume ?
.. it simply replaces the derailleur gear set to give variable ratios. :wink:
spyder03small.jpg

rossa01.jpg
 
Nice, Is the cost still about the same.
I assume this is the Manual N360, and not the Harmony. It would be sweet if it was the Harmony though.

I have fitted the Nuvinci Dev Kit on mine (although I have a model without suspension.) but I like the clean look of that model better.

Who sells the Zoca brand?
 
ashwright said:
Who sells the Zoca brand?
pro_electric_bikes_australia
National Office
Duporth Riverside
Suite 1, 6 Wharf St
Maroochydore QLD 4558
Email
sales@zocoelectricbike.com.au

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ZOCO-ROSSA-ELECTRIC-BIKE-PATENTED-HIGH-TORQUE-CENTRAL-DRIVE-SYSTEM-/260912238652?pt=AU_Sport_Cycling_Bikes&hash=item3cbf94d03c
 
The Nuvinci Hub gear shift mechanism according to reports does smooth out shifting but also adds weight and expense to an already heavy bike. Looks like a nice system and I'm sure with continuing development it's weight and expense may come down. Tonaro sells the midbacket designed bikes under different brand names: Gette, iGO, RMartin etc.
http://www.utahtrikes.com/ARTICLE-40.html
http://www.tonaro.cn/products.html
R10 Sept 2011 018.JPG
 
Being that this is a worm drive motor setup, how is the efficiency compared to a hub motor of equal wattage output? I only ask because there is much talk about how inefficient worm drives are, but I wonder in the real world if it makes much difference at all? It CERTAINLY simplifies a drive box!
 
I have the 2011 model of this bike:
http://www.aseakoelectricbike.com.au/modelsport.html

Which is also a Tornaro bike, but with cheaper parts, ie V brakes and a cheaper front fork. (It was less then $1000 though).

I don't know about efficiency, but I get 8-9Wh/km at speeds between 20-33km/hr. Which gets me 30km on the first 6ah of the battery.
This is with the older Nuvinci Dev kit installed on the back wheel.

It is interesting that the offices for Aseako Electric bike and Pro Electric Bikes are both on the Sunshine Coast (on either side of the river.) I would have bought the Zoca over the Aseako, if I had know about them a few months ago.

I do like these Tornaro bikes, they are a nice simple mid drive. A bit of competition for those store bought hubs I am seeing around Brisbane.

Edit:
This is a bit of a give away :)
http://zocoelectricbike.com.au/payment.html
http://www.aseakoelectricbike.com.au/payment.html
 
ashwright said:
This is a bit of a give away :)
http://zocoelectricbike.com.au/payment.html
http://www.aseakoelectricbike.com.au/payment.html

The Ebay shop..."Pro-Electric-Bikes-Australia"... is common for Aseako and Zoco. http://stores.ebay.com.au/Pro-Electric-Bikes-Australia?_trksid=p4340.l2563

Being that this is a worm drive motor setup,..
Im not certain that they are definitely "worm" reduction ?.. It possible, but i know the similar Aprilia gearbox uses a double bevel gear set to get the reduction.
Maybe someone has pulled one of these down and can confirm the design.
Either way, we know it is not the optimum efficiency to gear it down to crank speed ( 80rpm) , only to gear up again to wheel speed ( 300rpm).. but what you lose in efficiency in the gears, you gain by being able to keep the motor in its optimum rpm range.
 
Whiplash said:
Being that this is a worm drive motor setup, how is the efficiency compared to a hub motor of equal wattage output? I only ask because there is much talk about how inefficient worm drives are, but I wonder in the real world if it makes much difference at all? It CERTAINLY simplifies a drive box!

Whiplash, not sure, if they are "worm design" but can attest for the RMartin bikes torque. Tonaro Corporation sells the bikes under varies brand names: Gette, RMartin, Igo etc. Three years ago, I purchased/ installed an expensive top brand 500 DD hub style electic bike kit. It was noisier, less torque, and "cogged" compared to the RMartin bikes. I have also test rode Liberty, Giant and Ezee bikes but came back to the RMartin brand, they are a good value for their money. Enclosed are some pics of the "worm" design--guts.
Do not get me wrong, there are some great hub styled bikes but I prefer the bracket mounted system. I need the torque for my hilly rides. My RMartin is whisper quiet, great torque and comfortable speed. It fits my needs well.
http://www.electricbikedistributor.com/R10_electric_bicycle.html
http://www.tonaro.cn/products.html
http://www.igoelectric.com/igotitan.php
RMartin 200W Motor 009.JPG
RMartin 200W Motor 006.JPG
Brushless motor R Martin 006.JPG
R Martin Bike July 26 2010 005.JPG
 
Does anybody know how to disable the pedal assist feature easily on the Tonaro/IGO/Aseako? I have a controller that defaults to one of 3 levels, but no feature to turn it off. I'm thinking there is a sensor that can be disconnected so I can still use the twist throttle and Shimano. A photo or good instruction on what to disconnect would be great!
Phil
 
Sleeping Bear said:
Does anybody know how to disable the pedal assist feature easily on the Tonaro/IGO/Aseako? I have a controller that defaults to one of 3 levels, but no feature to turn it off. I'm thinking there is a sensor that can be disconnected so I can still use the twist throttle and Shimano. A photo or good instruction on what to disconnect would be great!
Phil

It's the only external wire running down into the crank area from memory. It just clips out and you can wrap it in electrical tape. Much better without the pedelec IMO.
 
Any owners know if the standard battery on these bikes (36V 10AH model no. AE7288195PMHRE on mine) has some kind of built-in low voltage cutoff other than just relying on the controller?
I opened the batt container and found that it had a set of 10 (balance?) leads coming out but not connected into a BMS. Also a 50V capacitor alone connected to 2 leads. Didn't want to unwrap it but may have to. Wondering if it relies on the controller alone then? If so makes paralleling more difficult...
 
I Have my old one out of its case. Using dc-dc converter from E-Bike.CA tor run stereo and lights. I don't see one either, Not willing to seperate cells further yet. Think it might be controller Based lvc. Might get brave and open it further later.
 
alban said:
Any owners know if the standard battery on these bikes (36V 10AH model no. AE7288195PMHRE on mine) has some kind of built-in low voltage cutoff other than just relying on the controller?
I opened the batt container and found that it had a set of 10 (balance?) leads coming out but not connected into a BMS. Also a 50V capacitor alone connected to 2 leads. Didn't want to unwrap it but may have to. Wondering if it relies on the controller alone then? If so makes paralleling more difficult...

Some nice photo's might help ? Wouldn't mind building some knowledge for when it comes time to rebuild (and upgrade) a new battery pack.
 
That's interesting Ferro - thanks for the pics. Are there any balance leads going from the BMS to the cells then, as I note that yours also has some 10 or so leads connected to a plug not attached to anything?
 
I've just got mine, while tempted to pull the pedelec off, I've realised it will effectively give me "max throttle grip" while pedalling beyond top motor speed. It already has throttle so no issue there, except the N360 is on the right, throttle on the left.
 
Silly question, but should these be able to drive by motor/throttle only, free-wheeling the pedal crank while chain ring drives the rear?
On mine While off the bike with rear wheel in air, throttle drives the wheel, but not while sitting on the bike. Only after slight pedalling to cease free-wheeling will throttle drive, as does the pedelec.
 
Well, my Tonaro moves off and drives on throttle alone without pedalling, with the front chainwheel freewheeling. Does yours go faster than about 4 mph on throttle alone? If not it may be a 'walk with the bike' kind of throttle?
So are you saying you have no freewheel ability on the front? If so that's abnormal. Is it new?
 
Thanks, mine is freewheeling totally both sides if crankarms are stationary, while your reducer to chainwheel will drive, while crankarms still freewheeling... And freewheeling totally if no throttle and crankarms stationary.
It is brand new, so will clarify with the importer.
Thanks again for the info.
P.s. it behaves like yours when rear wheel is off the ground, no load, so I am guessing a tolerance issue in the clutch freewheeling after reducer.
 
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