trackbike codename NODLEHS

Sorry, typo! 168 s and 2 p. 622 volts nominal, 700 volts fully charged.
The current 30C cont. cells would be lighter still!
 
jonescg said:
Sorry, typo! 168 s and 2 p. 622 volts nominal, 700 volts fully charged.
The current 30C cont. cells would be lighter still!

wow that's a weapon

So can you tell people that's its no different to working on 400 volt or does it make you a little more nervous?

Just asking because of that private project we are doing I feel like I am stepping up to the big boy electrics.

Sorry don't mean to hijack this thread but it may be valid for your build too.

Cheers Kiwi
 
No, it's not that different to 400 V. You're still dead if you touch it in the wrong spot.

However the design of the battery pack is such that it creates physical isolation as well as electromechanical isolation. You're never exposed to a high voltage risk unless you deliberately choose to circumvent at least two safety features.

The battery pack does not allow 700 V out unless a series of 12 V supplies are fed in. When the bike is turned off, the battery is broken down into 4 x 175 V blocks. This does add the need for four contactors, but I think you could get away with two provided a physical service disconnect was available (like removing a buslink or fuse). The battery also has polycarbonate dividers separating each 175 V module, and coverings for any high voltage conductors so it's nearly impossible to short in the event of a crash. Finally, everything is enclosed inside a waterproof, crash-proof, single unit which can easily be hoisted out of the bike with a gantry. Even charging is managed as two 350 V supplies which are only activated when the plug is firmly inside the receptacle.

We've never had leakage issues, and we can ride it in the rain if you were really keen. But the most dangerous part about riding an electric motorbike in the rain is the 'riding a motorbike in the rain' part :)
 
jonescg said:
No, it's not that different to 400 V. You're still dead if you touch it in the wrong spot.

However the design of the battery pack is such that it creates physical isolation as well as electromechanical isolation. You're never exposed to a high voltage risk unless you deliberately choose to circumvent at least two safety features.

The battery pack does not allow 700 V out unless a series of 12 V supplies are fed in. When the bike is turned off, the battery is broken down into 4 x 175 V blocks. This does add the need for four contactors, but I think you could get away with two provided a physical service disconnect was available (like removing a buslink or fuse). The battery also has polycarbonate dividers separating each 175 V module, and coverings for any high voltage conductors so it's nearly impossible to short in the event of a crash. Finally, everything is enclosed inside a waterproof, crash-proof, single unit which can easily be hoisted out of the bike with a gantry. Even charging is managed as two 350 V supplies which are only activated when the plug is firmly inside the receptacle.

We've never had leakage issues, and we can ride it in the rain if you were really keen. But the most dangerous part about riding an electric motorbike in the rain is the 'riding a motorbike in the rain' part :)


Thanks Chris that makes a lot of sense and is safe great info mate :idea: :D

Thanks Kiwi
 
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