Tranz X battery, Help please!

[waingroo]

Good day everyone,

Recently, i bought very cheap (less than 200$) five motors and one battery from two guys who wished to keep their bikes as non-electric.

The battery is TranzX BL03 2014 model (36v / 9.9A) disassembled from a Hercules Tourer AGT 7 (automatic trans for Nexus 7)... it has come with the TranzX "huge" (10 pins) motor hub, two controllers (one main and a secondary controller) LCD display, AGT device, switches, but without torque sensor, without brake sensor handles. Also it seems that this is only assisted and have no throttle.

Other hub motors I have are all 36V 250 to 400W as fallows:
-Schachner- brushed motor made in Austria, with controller, but without PAS senor who have four wires instead three !!?
-Schachner- brushless with controller also made in Austria, but I actually find that is Tongsheng the main producer... instead, the brushed one it seems that is fully made in Austria.
-Tongsheng (aka Qute Q100 In my opinion)- brushless, just 3 whires (perhaps it have the HALL sensors inside or outside) and was come without controller, just LED display and sensored brake handles.
-MXUS BF08 (designed for rear wheel) with controller.
-And as I said first, an Tranz X motor hub very heavy and so ugly LOL.

From now I'm a little confused because, at least theoretical, I have all I need to transform my trekking bike Pegasus into an E-bike, but with all this, I don't know what to choose. Also I have to tell that I do not have an magnet wheel for PAS sensor.

I'd like to choose the brushed one, just because it gives the best torque and this is actually what I need most... for my city full of hills.

The big and first question is:

The TranzX Battery, have four pins (one main "-" , one main "+" and another two secondary "-". I measured the full charged battery between all pins and result 41 Volts on main + and- pins, also 38 between both secondary - and main +. Another thing is that the motors& controllers I have, only act on main pins and do nothing if i use secondary "-".

So, after these explanations, can I use this battery with normal two wires controllers at normal capacity?
What is the purpose of the secondary "-" ?

Here I add a link with the plug of the battery http://www.pro-cycling-golla.de/images/artikel/artikel4fcb3adae3fd0_2.jpg

Thank You!

 

[d8veh]

I don't know the answer to your question, but there's two things I can think of. I thought Some Tranzx batteries used CANbus to communicate with the controller. If yours does, it'll be very difficult to use that system unless you use all the components. I think 38v and 41v is too high for CANbus, so you might be OK.

If you're lucky, two of those connections are for power and the other two switch on the BMS. If that's the case, you should be able to follow the two power wires to the controller and the other two to the switch, which might be in the LCD. The 38v pin is most likely to be the power line. It would be lower than 41v because the BMS would be switched off. It's only a bit of leaking charge. You won't be able to draw any power from it. You could try bridging the 41v pins with a 5k resistor to see if the other two jump to 41v.

 

[waingroo]

I don't know the answer to your question, but there's two things I can think of. I thought Some Tranzx batteries used CANbus to communicate with the controller. If yours does, it'll be very difficult to use that system unless you use all the components. I think 38v and 41v is too high for CANbus, so you might be OK.

If you're lucky, two of those connections are for power and the other two switch on the BMS. If that's the case, you should be able to follow the two power wires to the controller and the other two to the switch, which might be in the LCD. The 38v pin is most likely to be the power line. It would be lower than 41v because the BMS would be switched off. It's only a bit of leaking charge. You won't be able to draw any power from it. You could try bridging the 41v pins with a 5k resistor to see if the other two jump to 41v.

I have tried the main - and main + with two of my motors and work well. Just the problem is that the wheel spins very slow (the PAS is missing) and are made for German market who have different law. Even with throttle, spin slow (at about 2 rotation/second). But, i also have tried the main +,- on direct DC brushed hub and works fast enough and seems powerful.
I'm even think about to use that brushed hub on direct connection (without his own controller) with battery, and to use an normal potentiometer (taken from a drill) as throttle. I'm just afraid to not destroy the battery, as the controller protect it to discharge at minimum.

The battery is a very tricky one, with 2 separed plugs used maybe to connect with the computer and to modify some parameters. On the battery write "12C 36V with re-set/record function". Also on a side it says is Li-ion, and in a phrase is mentioned as Li-polymer... I have also asked here, but I bring no answer http://www.bikeforums.net/electric-bikes/989205-tricky-battery-couple-questions.html#post17460286

Also the kit taken from a german bike, is very complex with jumpers inside, LCD, automatic gear changer.... BTW i'm a bad electronist and this is why I ask here, instead I like to "play" with A/T trans, gears, differentials and geared mechanics.

Thanks @d8veh for your answer. At least, I'll gonna use this battery because is the only one I have.

 

[waingroo]

I don't know the answer to your question, but there's two things I can think of. I thought Some Tranzx batteries used CANbus to communicate with the controller. If yours does, it'll be very difficult to use that system unless you use all the components. I think 38v and 41v is too high for CANbus, so you might be OK.

If you're lucky, two of those connections are for power and the other two switch on the BMS. If that's the case, you should be able to follow the two power wires to the controller and the other two to the switch, which might be in the LCD. The 38v pin is most likely to be the power line. It would be lower than 41v because the BMS would be switched off. It's only a bit of leaking charge. You won't be able to draw any power from it. You could try bridging the 41v pins with a 5k resistor to see if the other two jump to 41v.

I forgot to mention that the controller only act on main plugs making a little spark when connect it.... with the other "-"es, do nothing, just like no exist. Only the voltmeter show me the voltage.

Here is another guy asking the same question on a german forum : http://www.pedelecforum.de/forum/index.php?threads/winora-f2-akkuprobleme-oder-elektronikproblem.30390/

 

[d8veh]

The throttles on bikes for the German market only give 6km/h. They're limited by software in the controller. The spark when you connect the controller to the battery is normal.

 

[waingroo]

The throttles on bikes for the German market only give 6km/h. They're limited by software in the controller. The spark when you connect the controller to the battery is normal.

Thank you again Dave for your answer.... you just confirmed my suspicions.