Trek Hybrid, BMC V1 versus 13% logging road

hillbilly

10 W
Joined
Jul 29, 2009
Messages
76
Location
North Cascade foothills west of Mount Baker, WA
My main interest in ebikes is related to climbing the steep logging roads in the mountains surrounding our cabin. There are hundreds (if not thousands) of miles of these unpaved roads, many of which offer wonderful scenery and excellent wildlife viewing. To reduce poaching, log piracy and illegal dumping, many of the best road systems are closed to the public by heavy steel gates. You can slide a bike under some gates but others are full barriers, so if you can't find a way to maneuver your bike around them your only hope is to lift the bike over the gate.

My goal is to find the perfect combination of e-motor and cargo bike for these roads. In the meantime, I'm riding a Trek 700c with a BMC v1 rear hub and 36v Ping. This bike is wonderful on paved roads but even though it probably isn't designed for it, the lure of the hills keeps pulling me onto the logging roads. I've only ridden about 50 miles so far on logging roads and though that isn't much, it has definitely taught this ebike noobie quite a lot.

Today, for example, I decided to push beyond my comfort zone by riding the bike into a maze of logging roads that might (or might not) connect to a paved road to the south of us, creating a long and very interesting loop trip. I've tried to map this route using Google Earth and topos but the coverage is so poor in that area that I finally decided to just "wing it". My main concerns were getting seriously lost and having to find my way out in the dark and/or having a break down -- there's no cell phone coverage and no way out other than a very long walk.

If you've read the review I did of this bike you know that I recently changed from a 20 amp to a 35 amp controller. The larger controller gave such a dramatic increase in power that I figured I had at least a 50-50 chance of climbing most of the grades I might run into on this route. Well... maybe 40-60 :)

Starting at the gate, the first hill is 7% and just under a mile long. (I measured all of the hills both going and returning with a good GPS.) The bike sailed up this hill with moderate pedaling. In fact, I had to hold the speed down to 8-10 mph because of the rough surface.

Once I was on top there was an unexpected (and very beautiful) 3 mile stretch of nearly level road through a narrow canyon and then a "real" hill, an 11.7% climb for just over half a mile. I was quite pleased that we also went right up this hill. (The internal temp of the controller reached 115F). I was pedaling comfortably in a mid-low gear and had to keep a steady hand on the throttle to avoid goosing the speed on loose gravel. ( I'm still learning how to handle the bike. A couple of times I've been distracted and come close to going over the edge. Also... all of this ride was done seated. I never stand on the pedals as I don't yet trust my balance.)

At the top of this second hill the road divided into 3 branches. I was deep into the woods by now, the light was starting to turn and I couldn't make heads or tails of the roads shown on my GPS. It was obviously time to turn back. I decided instead to take the road that pointed more-or-less in the direction I wanted to go to complete the loop.

This road traversed a recent logging cut on a very steep hill. In other words, it was wetter, muddier, and even rougher than the roads I'd already traveled. As I rode the brakes downhill I knew that the worst case scenario would be to hit a dead-end and face the ordeal of pushing the bike back up.

The worst-case scenario was just beyond the bottom of the hill -- last winter's epic storms had blown out the creek, washed away the road and buried other parts under an avalanche. As I turned the bike around I knew just how grim it was going to be to push the bike up that long mushy hill. Unable to face the pain, I shifted instead into the lowest gear and gave it full throttle. In for a penny, in for a pound....

The hill turned out to be almost 14% for .6 miles. I probably should have given up before I reached the top but as the motor was still turning I risked a coronary and actually made the top, albeit with a dizzying pulse rate. (The controller temp was 160F, the motor just warm to the touch.)

I've found quite a lot of conjecture on ES about the hill climbing potential of various ebikes, with many references to ebike simulators. Based on everything I've read here, I really wouldn't have expected my bike to perform as well as it did today, especially on a hill with such a varied and difficult surface. What this experience tells me, I guess, is that there's nothing quite like personal experience -- and for those of us who don't have access to a lot of different bikes, this experience usually has to be earned the hard way, by building up an ebike and putting it to a personal test. Then again, sharing the details of our rides can be an important supplement to the many excellent accounts of ebike conversions here.

I'll end this with a question... my Data Logger showed the initial peak battery voltage as 39.93 volts. At the end of the ride, the peak voltage was 38.91 volts. I don't understand what this might tell me about the condition of the battery. (I'd covered almost 16 miles and used a total of 8112 mah from the Ping 36v 15ah battery.)

thanks!

Carl
 
Impressive climb for that bike, regardless of the motor. Here in the Soutwest US we have some similar roads, usually for gas lines, power lines, etc that are barely passable for 4x4's. Taking a bike, pedal or motor, on them means walking up a spot of it here and there. I haven't measured the grades, but 15% wouldn't suprise me at all.

But a few things I learned in the last year. There is a huge difference in trying to get up this kind of road or trail on an "ordinary mountain bike" and a modern, say post 2005 full suspension bike. For really riding all those roads you need to eventually find a deal on a used off road bike. When I scored a great deal on my Giant OS 2, it rode so great I immediately chucked the idea of putting a motor on it.

One thing that will help right away is to get a lower first gear. I ride up steeps on my Giant at 3 mph and get unbelievable torque. It has a front chain ring with 22 teeth on the smallest gear. Other older mt bikes I have only have 24 tooth low gears so the lowest gear is about 5 mph, and it just isn't suitable above 10%.

My hill climbing dirt bike is the 5304 in 24" rim. I get up hills on it in the lowest gear, about 5 mph for that bike, and just try to keep the pedals spinning high cadence to keep up tourqe. On moderate slopes, I need very little throttle. On steeps, with full throttle, the main problem is keeping the front wheel on the ground.

Bear in mind that gearmotors get melty hot inside while the covers stay just " warm to the touch" The best place to check heat on gearmotors is the stub of the axle.
 
Thanks, Dogman. Your comments always seem to fit neatly into those gaps in my own experience that need filling!

I love the idea of a "granny gear" for serious hills. It is raining so much here now that it is difficult to get a ride more than once a week (or less) but I'm gradually increasing my strength and stamina for pedaling, which I greatly enjoy. I pretty much lost the ability to hike after a near-fatal horse wreck, so the only practical way I have to get deep into the backcountry is on a bike, hence my obsession with ebike hillclimbing abilities.

Your suggestion to consider a quality late model mountain bike intrigues me. Can these bikes be extended with an Xtracycle? I need at least some cargo space for camping gear or photo equipment -- especially a heavy tripod.

Also, can you please comment on the battery useage for that ride? I've been babying this Ping according to your earlier suggestions but I don't yet fully understand the relationship between peak voltage and mah use.

Carl
 
Carl;
Great write up.
Put your motor on a push trailer and a 20" wheel. You will have what you want.

Get a nice suspension bike, I can relate about getting beat up.

Why doesnt the Temp gauge work we put in the axle??

Dan
 
hey Dan... the axle probe is working, I just forgot to include that one in my report as it rarely registers much above ambient. At the top of the 13% hill, however, it did register 90F -- I put my hand on the case and it was just warm, probably the same temp as the probe indicated.

The problem I see with a push trailer is the decrease in maneuverability -- the only way I can get through the Blue Mtn gate is a very narrow gap with a slight turn between the gate and a boulder. I can squeeze the Trek through but I don't think a trailer would pass without disconnecting. Also, on my ride yesterday I ended up walking the bike on a very narrow trail chainsawed through a logjam. That trail ended at a deep creek -- if I'd had a trailer behind me I would have been forced again to disconnect in order to turn around.

We've got another four inches of rain incoming here, with heavy wind and more storms to follow, so I won't be riding again for several days.

Carl
 
I don't know that I can help you with the battery question, I just track how much kwh my charger uses once in a while to see if my capacity has dropped any. If it does, I'll know it's time to look for a problem.

Good to hear the motor has a temp sensor on the axle, the internal temps should be 30-40 F higher inside. By now of course, you should be able to get away with a lot in the colder ambient temps. Once ambient temps get below 50F or so, is when the motor temp will be about 40F higher, so you had about 130F inside your motor. If you see 130 or so on the temp sensor, then it's time to let er cool a bit. Eventually cover temps do catch up with the temps on the axle, but you can have 200F inside gearmotors while covers still feel cool if you push em hard enough. Even here in the desert, I rarely see hub motor temps above 130 inside, or 90F on the axle or covers.

In cooler weather, even a hard run motor will usuallly heat to an equilibrium that is below the danger zone for temps. Once you ride for awhile, you get to know which hill gets the motor hot, and which you can climb without worry.

Really rough roads would be tough on an extracycle. I have no idea if they can be put on suspension bikes. I have seen some homemade longtails where a suspension rear swingarm was welded to a regular bike. I just wanted to point out that there was a huge difference between cheap or no suspension, and the real deal, 4"-6" travel MTB's. My Giant, with 5.5" rear suspension, seems to just float like a cloud over the roughest stuff, and keeps the wheel on the ground grabbing traction when other bikes start to skitter around on really steep stuff.

I just got ahold of an old mongoose FS, probobally in the $250 price range when new, that has about 3" suspension in the rear, and could have the rear shock upgraded. The wallbike FS bikes have the short little shock on them so a better shock on them would be too long. Schwinn also made a similar bike, S 5 I think it was called. Mabye one of those would be a tolerable dirt road bike for cheaper than a nicer bike with 5" suspension.
 
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