Hi Everyone, my first post, so thought id make it a good one. Basically had a local shop convert my Cube AIM Pro to an electric bike and i found out that he has used this kit. I think, and only think its a TSDZ2 250w 36V, and i think a 19.2AH battery. The guy that did the convert gave me a completely different name to the kit used, obviously because he doesnt want me to know what he used. I have gone into the secret menu and changed a few things, like turned off walk assist and put the speed limit upto 55 mph. Just wondering if there is a way i can find out what the battery is and find out if he has installed a 250w 36v motor or is it something else like 350w. Now i have read that all these motors are the same ( 250w, 350w, 500w, and 750w) but i dont think thats right because the voltage is different on the 500w and 750 w motors. I have got a SDlink usb programmer, just waiting for the speed extension cable so i can make the interface to the bike. Complete noob though and not good with bikes or tech so im hoping some kind person will point me in the right direction. I am also very happy to try custom firmwares and report back my findings. Thanks for reading this, ride safe, Doggy....
Tsdz2
- Thread starter KILLERDOG
- Start date
There are only 2 bare motortypes of Tsdz2KILLERDOG said:
36V-4000rpm and 48V-4000rpm. The power of the 36V is limited to 250-350W and for the 48V to 500-750W
All other hardware, like gears and controller is the same in both types and the limitations are done inside the firmware.
With OSF you can unlock these limitations. But only if there is inside an old controllertype.
For stock display:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=110682
There are more names possible for the Tsdz2, because they are sold as OEM too.
For example the name SFM DU250 is a German version
For the battery .... measure the output. It will be 36V or 48V
Hey, thx for the reply. I know i sound like a noob but i have no idea of how to measure the battery voltage. And how will i know if i have an old controller in it or not. Im happy to flash the thing with a custom bios/firmware, my display is a VLCD5. Cheers..
For both measurements you need a cheap digital multimeter to measure the Voltage.KILLERDOG said:
To know the battery Voltage you can also look on the text sticker on the charger.
36V battery, the charger should have 42V output
48V battery, the charger should have about 54V output.
Knowing the controllertype you need to measure between 2 lowest pins on the speedconnector.
You will measure 0V for the new or 5V for the old controller. Most controllers are still the old type (5V).
I just bought an st link clone. I am completely new to all this and i know nothing about electronics, bikes or programming. I am though willing to try different firmwares and report back in the hope it helps development. I just need someone to spoon feed me, at first. I have been reading these forums and watching youtube for weeks now and i am more confused than ever. I intend to purchase a laptop to program the bike as my pc is upstairs and my bike down stairs. I have ordered a speedo extension cable and i will make an interface cable so i can flashed the motor. Incidently , people talk about flashing the motor, flashing the controller and flashing the display, so im really confused as yo what i actually need to do in order to get a custom firmware on my bike using my VLCD5 display. Many thanks for the advice and help... 
There are different versions based on the same source, but for different display's or wirelessKILLERDOG said:
If you have just the stock version with vlcd5, you only need to flash the controller.
Meaning the ST v2 link, connect 3 of the short wire sockets of it to the speed connector and the usb side to the PC
Start the graphical java configurator on PC, insert your preferences, flash and go.
Try the settings and eventually change it again inside the java configurator.
I linked before to the thread for that version
On the Github page inside the wiki you find more info.
With OSF there are a few manuals for settings and display handling
The java configurator does work also without flashing, so you can see and practice the software, before flashing.
Ok, i know im going to be called a noob, but thats because i really am. Where do i plug the cable that im making using a speed controller extension cable. Do i unplug the speed sensor and plug it into the plug there, my plug is wrapped in tape and looks chunky, unlike the cable. Also where can i download the latest "reliable" firwamre for my 26v 250watt kit ? Hoping i can easily backup my unit too, just incase. Once i get the hang on it, i will be messing and testing and posting. Its just all so new to me. Thx so much though, i really appreciate your help. Ohhh, yes, i downloaded latest firmware from here https://github.com/emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1/releases/tag/v20.1C.1-VLCD5-VLCD6-XH18
The Github link is the latest v.0.20.C1KILLERDOG said:
I understand you had made a special connection cable for the speedconnector.
I only use the flat cable from the STv2link and put the socks (with isolationtube) directly on the speedconnector pins.
For flashing or making a backup. Do this without battery
Backup:
Start stvp.exe as administrator
Choose at the top of the GUI "STM8S105x4" for stock firmware
Choose "STM8S105x6" for custom firmware
Choose the next tabs successively:
Program memory and save the file
Data memory and save the file
Option byte and save the file
These 3 files are your backup
For more information look here
Erm ,ok, really out of my comfort zone here. Nearly finished with the silly questions ( thank god i hear you say )... So when i plug the cable in to program, it looks like on my bike i have a y-splitter. Is this right on all the kits ? And can i plug my programming cable into any of these Y-Splitter ports ? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/363616588550?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item54a93cd306:g:lKoAAOSwqMlhipeY&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACsPYe5NmHp%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsS5%252FLJbfonbQUYd49AU1AJYzlWw9lZTgn9crVbIuqsN3FiJAslAPxo1MLAMt21pSP0NaeRG%252BQiDOCsbh4o1%252B1nNHLGX%252Fi2pABYjhgk3sGnndB8Lf2pWqBZoByM49bEtc7Ay%252BpUbWtZvk%252F42CGB6lO5g3nOYxvh1hov%252BhGQQ%252BxKFdLbLkeh3pBd3W6On8mmnPDedEh%252BozTR3%252FBhy866eT24a7c4KmTnmTjYwc7eQ2toYjZV7BsLGGv0C9A1I%252Biy8l6PkrblM1gTOuU3LV%252ByUa0fwX8h%252BymkKnMz5aklGRBgNs35ofkwIoTk6gSXBeiXsrQRcScDt9ETPJezh1ozKDxYdTJZYTexWJNubvuTB%252FuKIASPBMGuro5JknZMKjIOopy755v2ZoASl3PiV4govyTjHdcNqudf8AzbQYV4QJ4WLdROGz0H%252BdXuXOYOMb0z84fgaOvnf9UhBVOX1x5rT6IZ%252Bjei%252BbgRyfq04qkQzFpmHGazIjjrsLOySqUWTgqYXewobNtaf%252BUyftFpZhCnMCLxA0qVvXQbf3gyj%252B8%252BJmMrUOuvYIIRhQY27mZ8g%252BpScRUwv0%252FCMBdax%252FRiZOpgyU%252F6cdJkkN5hQgQOFvbgmoSyNbJfdCX3cyHWhte%252BNfXi3boTlEN%252FFLls7n6GbVIzQKT8sEHJiuC%252B3nq5ypRiyISGJV2BcFEL8FmQkedV7241ZbX71ST%252Fbje0X7gLWVcKFEbPpDv5Sbpq%252BaXiCCCxDdEB02F5CPD0pAhtJ2eArjPxQH8w8jX2VwI2906DdC%252FsFGnpV72bbq%252BgmaaD37V2BLFnibPLQMw2r0cnpJRr%252FMDKfY6gVG5n%252B5rApe9hhT3mFyQ21QBRJj48KbMj4MJX9XhsIUQ%253D%7Cclp%3A2334524%7Ctkp%3ABFBMnuDXiqJf
No, that is the dead end to the speedsensor.KILLERDOG said:
It is not sure you can use that yellow conector, if not all wires are present. You must directly connect to the motor.
Unplug that Y splitter (disconnect the speedsensor) and connect the STv2link instead to the unplugged motor connector.
Right, got you. So i connect direct to the motor, great stuff. Thanks for all your help. Now i just need to find out how to operate the new firmware before i flash it. Hoping to learn alot in the comming weeks, and then i will start posting my findings. I will also mess with settings and publish them. Like i said all this is new to me. By the way, if im connecting direct to the motor via cable, why do you need to disconnect the battery and the y-splitter cable ?
The controller will be feed by USB Voltage, you don't want the motor will try to run with the 36V connection and burn the controller Fets. Also there is a possibility the STv2link will burn, because the battery deliver also the same but bit higher Voltage.KILLERDOG said:
The speed controller isn't needed, the Y splitter isn't fully wired and you need the motor connection for sure
Right , great. Ok, i think im nearly good to do this..... Just waiting for my cable thru the post and then im all sorted. I do want to find a decent threat about what the new firmware actually does, and what i can turn on and off. Thank you for your help and your patience.
