The original post mentions $1500 as your max budget. I think Dogman is saying that if you can squeeze out $2,000 ($500 more)...the reliability goes way up.
If you are certain you will never want more than a 20A max, you can get that with a 6-FET controller (get a sinewave, same price or maybe $10 more?). limiting the system to 20A max will help extend your range, but you will feel it with the extra pedaling over the hour each way on the commute. The MAC will be about $100 more than the BPM, and for 30A-35A I would get a 12-FET ($50 more?), but...you will never need to upgrade with your flat commute (using MAC/12-FET).
Regardless of whether you use a geared hub or direct-drive, the majority of happy E-bikers seem to settle on 48V X 25A = 1,200W. More power would mean a bigger, heavier, and more expensive battery, and...high amp-draws cause a worse efficiency miles-per-watt (by that I mean...don't use 45A and then complain about your battery isn't delivering the full range it's advertised for).
A lot of new riders are happy with 750W, until...they ride an E-bike with 1,200W. More power than that often means more heat in the controller/motor. Hot rodders know that they are playing with fire, and there is occasional carnage. But for a new E-biker who needs a reliable commuter, 1,200W seems to be the sweet spot. The MAC is robust, on flat terrain it can take 30A all the time (it only sees the heat from the full 30A during acceleration). Perhaps get the less expensive BPM, and later you can save up money to get a Cycle Analyst and then install a temp probe (very easy, there's a pictoral guide linked below). Once you have installed heat protection, you can feed the BPM 30A (if you're not totally satisfied with 20A-25A)
"Bafang BPM teardown and pics"
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=51237
"MAC teardown and pics"
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=51310