Using Regen% of the cycle analyst to see the charge state !

[Doctorbass]

Last time i repaired my controller, i decided to add a + and - plug directly connected AFTER the internal shunt so i could have an auxiliary output to supply everything i need like light, brake light, (using an dc-dc converter for sure) and to take it in account for the Wh or Ah used.

But I also discovered that it is a great way to measure the charging % state!!!

Waiting to get my super DC-dc charger, i presently use my 100V 10A adjustable power supply.

So i just plug it to my auxiliary plug (that is connected directly on the controller but after the internal shunt) and i connect my power supply on it.. keep ON the controller and guess what!!! the Ah begin to rewind!! so if i previously did a 16Ah ride, this number decrease as my battery charge state increase... like regen do when i go down a hill...

What is appreciable is that the % regen also begin to change.. from 0 to 100% when the battery get fully charged!!

so when the Ah reach from 16Ah to 0Ah, the battery is now charged !

That is accurate, simple and fast to diy

I also have to say that my present 1.5kWh li-manganese pack is wonderfull!!!!!!! no need to balance!!
every of the present 3 x 108 cells divided in 18s 18p have no more than 20mV difference after the charge!!.. i just connect the Gnd and +75V to the power supply and it's done!

These cells are i think the best trade off for power, current , easy to use and the cost !


It take around 2h to fully charge the 1.5kWh pack from an empty state.

These day i make some 40Wh/km ride on 1200Wh !! that's why my motor get hot!!

 

[RLT]

Brilliant!

 

[Link]

Brilliant!

That's what I was going to reply with. Verbatim. :lol:

 

[RLT]

Either we think much alike, despite our generational differences....
.
.
.
.
Or we have both recently seen a Guiness commercial

 

[Link]

Combination of the above. Methinks this had something to do with it.

And I found this while looking for that. It's full of win.

 

[RLT]

LMAO @ #2

 

[Doctorbass]

! ! ! ! !!!

 

[paultrafalgar]

Doc, not to detract from your splendid engineering efforts, but I was wondering why your power consumption is so high ("40Wh/km ride")? Most bikes are using around 15-25 watthours per mile, aren't they?

 

[Toshi]

Doc, not to detract from your splendid engineering efforts, but I was wondering why your power consumption is so high ("40Wh/km ride")? Most bikes are using around 15-25 watthours per mile, aren't they?

5-series C-lyte, no pedaling, lots of acceleration will do it.

 

[ZapPat]

Does anyone know if a watts up will do this too? I'm about to buy something along these lines, but havent decided which one yet.

Thanks!

 

[zenon]

Hi ZapPat Go and check special mods on Watts-up Meter at this website http://www.rc-electronics-usa.com


Hey Doc Great job on your find, using the cycle analyst as a charging decade counter.

Question? with your experience on this kinion cells, what is the safest cut-off voltage before killing the cells?

I totally agree with you that this cell are awesome powerfull and light weight ( upgraded from lead brick) , I also see 20mV deference at 90 percent charge in my packs.
Have you ever got the chance to measure the voltage around 3.0V/cell and see the voltage deference per cells?
Since my cell are not match like your packs, I'm careful not to drain the pack less than approx 3.3V/cell.

Thanks

 

[ZapPat]

So from what I see from this page, the Watt's up meter CANNOT count downwards like the cycle analyst can, right?

Quote:
Will a "backwards" or reverse connection damage the "Watt's Up"? E.g. connecting a charger to the LOAD side and a battery to the SOURCE? What will the display read?
No. Connecting in this manner causes current to flow in the reverse direction, but will cause no damage up to the rated current of the meter. However, while connected this way, the meter will not indicate the actual current nor any value derived from the current i.e. Watts, Amp hours or Watt hours. E.g. the Amps and Watts will read 0.
Any accumulated Ah or Wh displayed will not increase further until power again flows from SOURCE to LOAD, i.e. in the forward direction (meaning current is flowing in the black wires from LOAD to SOURCE).

I would love to buy the much cheaper watts up, but only if it could do this... can anyone else tell me if it can count up/down or not?

 

[Link]

I don't think so. I had it plugged in backwards into the batteries and charger once (to see how much energy was needed to charge the batts), and it powered on, but wouldn't go backwards by the few mA needed to power the charger. :?

 

[jeffkay]

Last time i repaired my controller, i decided to add a + and - plug directly connected AFTER the internal shunt so i could have an auxiliary output to supply everything i need like light, brake light, (using an dc-dc converter for sure) and to take it in account for the Wh or Ah used.

But I also discovered that it is a great way to measure the charging % state!!!

Waiting to get my super DC-dc charger, i presently use my 100V 10A adjustable power supply.

So i just plug it to my auxiliary plug (that is connected directly on the controller but after the internal shunt) and i connect my power supply on it.. keep ON the controller and guess what!!! the Ah begin to rewind!! so if i previously did a 16Ah ride, this number decrease as my battery charge state increase... like regen do when i go down a hill...

What is appreciable is that the % regen also begin to change.. from 0 to 100% when the battery get fully charged!!

so when the Ah reach from 16Ah to 0Ah, the battery is now charged !

That is accurate, simple and fast to diy

I also have to say that my present 1.5kWh li-manganese pack is wonderfull!!!!!!! no need to balance!!
every of the present 3 x 108 cells divided in 18s 18p have no more than 20mV difference after the charge!!.. i just connect the Gnd and +75V to the power supply and it's done!

These cells are i think the best trade off for power, current , easy to use and the cost !


It take around 2h to fully charge the 1.5kWh pack from an empty state.

These day i make some 40Wh/km ride on 1200Wh !! that's why my motor get hot!!

I agree! I like my 26650 version so much--even more than the finicky-to-charge A123's!

 

[Doctorbass]

Doc, not to detract from your splendid engineering efforts, but I was wondering why your power consumption is so high ("40Wh/km ride")? Most bikes are using around 15-25 watthours per mile, aren't they?

Paul, have you a X5 from crystalyte?

Is fo, mod it like i did to 75V 75A and go offroad with hard start and stop and you should see more than 40Wh/km!

Normal electric car do 120-200Wh/km at 100kph. normal light ebike 5 to 15Wh/km... monster ebike are mor 15 to 50Wh

Doc

 

[Doctorbass]

Does anyone know if a watts up will do this too? I'm about to buy something along these lines, but havent decided which one yet.

Thanks!

Both of my watt's u do that.. but it's not a question of reversing polarity.. but it's more the current direction.. you normally have a SOURCE and LOAD cable pair.. so if you connect the load at the source and the source at the load, the current will be negative.

I also have an Astroflight meter and it do the same.

Doc

 

[Doctorbass]

Hi ZapPat Go and check special mods on Watts-up Meter at this website http://www.rc-electronics-usa.com


Hey Doc Great job on your find, using the cycle analyst as a charging decade counter.

Question? with your experience on this kinion cells, what is the safest cut-off voltage before killing the cells?

I totally agree with you that this cell are awesome powerfull and light weight ( upgraded from lead brick) , I also see 20mV deference at 90 percent charge in my packs.
Have you ever got the chance to measure the voltage around 3.0V/cell and see the voltage deference per cells?
Since my cell are not match like your packs, I'm careful not to drain the pack less than approx 3.3V/cell.

Thanks

3.0V LVC is the safest way to keep a great cycle life of your konions.

I does'nt have fully empty my pack from now but i will measure if all cell are around 3.0V and what are the differences between cells.

Doc

 

[paultrafalgar]

Doc, not to detract from your splendid engineering efforts, but I was wondering why your power consumption is so high ("40Wh/km ride")? Most bikes are using around 15-25 watthours per mile, aren't they?

Paul, have you a X5 from crystalyte?

Is fo, mod it like i did to 75V 75A and go offroad with hard start and stop and you should see more than 40Wh/km!

Normal electric car do 120-200Wh/km at 100kph. normal light ebike 5 to 15Wh/km... monster ebike are mor 15 to 50Wh

Doc

Sorry, Doc, Not Crystallyte, no electric motor, only ATP (Adenine Tri Phosphate i.e. food) i.e. human power maybe 90watts Very slow to get this recumbent electrified 2.5 mph up hills
But I'll be going for chaindrive system 4sure, no hubmotors 4me
Something like Miles' splendid Randy-style direct one stage drive or the Cybien French friction drive perhaps - good reduction gearing that!

 

[ZapPat]

Both of my watt's u do that.. but it's not a question of reversing polarity.. but it's more the current direction.. you normally have a SOURCE and LOAD cable pair.. so if you connect the load at the source and the source at the load, the current will be negative.

I also have an Astroflight meter and it do the same.
Doc

Thanks for that info, Doc! I'll order the watts up, then. If I understand correctly, the watts up meter will count current in both directions, but can only display positive results. Thus while discharging it will count up, and then during the charge it will then count back down towards 0, BUT without ever being able to count into negative values (according to the user manual).
Pat

 

[Doctorbass]

Both of my watt's u do that.. but it's not a question of reversing polarity.. but it's more the current direction.. you normally have a SOURCE and LOAD cable pair.. so if you connect the load at the source and the source at the load, the current will be negative.

I also have an Astroflight meter and it do the same.
Doc

Thanks for that info, Doc! I'll order the watts up, then. If I understand correctly, the watts up meter will count current in both directions, but can only display positive results. Thus while discharging it will count up, and then during the charge it will then count back down towards 0, BUT without ever being able to count into negative values (according to the user manual).
Pat

maybe it's a question of firmware version.. i'll see mine.

my astroflight do that if i remember negative Ah or positive Ah.

Doc