Vespa PX125 (Large Frame) Electric Conversion.

Kick ass!!

I'm seriously so happy that your are just a few steps ahead of me, so that I can see what works for you and then copy it, haha. :lol: I just ordered that same contactor from Kelly, and I also think I got the same dc-dc converter you have. Just arrived today.

But at your pace, you're going to be many steps ahead of me when you're finished and I'm still sitting around waiting for my garage to get warm enough to spray some paint.
 
In my opinion these kind of contactors are not really useful. They are big and bulky, expensive and make the build more complicated.
Plus they are actually redundant with the BMS, most BMS offer the very same function to cutoff with a simple switch, and can also ramp up the capacitor charge while switching on.
So yeah, I guess these aren't necessary nowadays (at least when you have a BMS offering theese functions, for example the ANT BMS does it, pretty confident the Daly does it too).

Same thing applies to the breaker switch, the BMS does the same function, plus you have a 200A fuse somewhere according to your drawing hich also does the same thing in case of short circuit.
I did use breaker switches at some point when BMSs weren't up to the task, and they were annoying to use (they were not lasting long, and I often had power cuts).
 
oh NOW you tell us :lol:

most BMS offer the very same function to cutoff with a simple switch

I'm not sure I understand. You mean the BMS has inputs for a little switch that I would provide, and it would start and stop it from providing pack power? I haven't heard of that but I am new to this hobby, and you know a lot more than I do, so I will take your word for it. I bought the daly bms too and I don't see that mentioned anywhere. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08P4PWYCR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
mannydantyla said:
Kick ass!!

I'm seriously so happy that your are just a few steps ahead of me, so that I can see what works for you and then copy it, haha. :lol: I just ordered that same contactor from Kelly, and I also think I got the same dc-dc converter you have. Just arrived today.

But at your pace, you're going to be many steps ahead of me when you're finished and I'm still sitting around waiting for my garage to get warm enough to spray some paint.

Thanks, I am happy to be the guinea pig! :) Hopefully none of my yet to be discovered mistakes are expensive or destructive! But if they are I will post them.
 
Dui said:
In my opinion these kind of contactors are not really useful. They are big and bulky, expensive and make the build more complicated.
Plus they are actually redundant with the BMS, most BMS offer the very same function to cutoff with a simple switch, and can also ramp up the capacitor charge while switching on.
So yeah, I guess these aren't necessary nowadays (at least when you have a BMS offering theese functions, for example the ANT BMS does it, pretty confident the Daly does it too).

Same thing applies to the breaker switch, the BMS does the same function, plus you have a 200A fuse somewhere according to your drawing hich also does the same thing in case of short circuit.
I did use breaker switches at some point when BMSs weren't up to the task, and they were annoying to use (they were not lasting long, and I often had power cuts).

You may be correct, but I am a belt an suspenders type. I am also a little old school, so I am not 100% comfortable with pure electronic switches on high amp configurations. The contactor will ensure, I hope, that I do not have a runaway current. The breaker switch is not so much a fuse to me, it is an on off switch so I do not remove the battery with it powered, and I don't let the parasitic draw kill it when parked.
 
The engine electrics are done. Took a lot of time, but I am happy with the results. I also finished and covered the main harnesses towards the front, and battery area. Just need to do the tail light harness, and rear signals.






Obviously I have the motor hooked up for mocking purposes only. Until I mount the forks, front wheel and centerstand I can't install the motor.
 
That location of the motor controller is perfect. *chef's kiss*

Thank you for the photos and illustrations, I think i'll find them very helpful

When you tighten the bolt on the dropouts, does that make a noticeable difference in it's grip on the axle?
 
mannydantyla said:
That location of the motor controller is perfect. *chef's kiss*

Thank you for the photos and illustrations, I think i'll find them very helpful

When you tighten the bolt on the dropouts, does that make a noticeable difference in it's grip on the axle?

Ironically the top two bolts are the perfect distance, though too short to add nuts one, they hold it in place with the added two lower bolts.

Hard to say on the pinch bolts. My drop-outs are super tight to start with, so I do not see any movement.
 
First, installed the front tire, all new:



Then installed the fender, removing and reinstalling the fork.



Installed the rear hub and brake lines:



Cleaned up all the wiring, ready to test all the connections:




Then installed all the lights and test fit the bodywork:









I'm happy to say the lighting system works perfectly, and the body fits nicely!
 
You are just rolling along. Thank you for continuing to share your amazing build.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
JimVonBaden said:
The engine electrics are done. Took a lot of time, but I am happy with the results. I also finished and covered the main harnesses towards the front,

Little pro tip if I may, because I didn't know it at first: the little red rubber thingies are to be crimped together with the metallic part.
This way water can't get in from the inner hole:
maxresdefault.jpg

This video explains it well:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OgrA_6zFqqY

No biggie, of course no need to rebuild the wiring just for that, just thought it might help you to know it on your next build (or to help anyone who reads this)!
 
Jim I am just now new to this forum and admiring your work I am impressed.
I choose the easier way to convert my '61 VBB and bought the complete kit from my friend in the UK he's been working on this
for the last 5 years and the results are good I happen to install 2X 64v 28AH 1800W mounted under left and right cowls the battery
charger mounted under the tank cover (I cut the top of the tank to keep the vintage look) also mounted a battery switch in the
tank cover to switch between bat.1 and 2
My next project is a '79 P200E already in the primer coat, I am going to use 2X 72v 31.5AH 2270W for a little more speed and range.
 

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Jim
I really like the Headlight you installed can you share the details where I can buy 1 for my P200E project

Thanks Nicolaas
 
I'm jealous of all the storage compartments you have for fitting the various EV gadgets. I just got the contactor in the mail and it's way larger and heavier than I imagined. Not sure where I will put it.
 
Rectrofit said:
Jim I am just now new to this forum and admiring your work I am impressed.
I choose the easier way to convert my '61 VBB and bought the complete kit from my friend in the UK he's been working on this
for the last 5 years and the results are good I happen to install 2X 64v 28AH 1800W mounted under left and right cowls the battery
charger mounted under the tank cover (I cut the top of the tank to keep the vintage look) also mounted a battery switch in the
tank cover to switch between bat.1 and 2
My next project is a '79 P200E already in the primer coat, I am going to use 2X 72v 31.5AH 2270W for a little more speed and range.

It was tempting to get the Retrospective kit, but it wasn't 72V, nor a big enough battery or motor for me. It sure would have been easier though, for the swingarm alone!

Thanks for sharing!
 
Rectrofit said:
Jim
I really like the Headlight you installed can you share the details where I can buy 1 for my P200E project

Thanks Nicolaas

This is the light I bought. It was a nice fit, and only $28.https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32992135735.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.68d54c4dXijwNk
 
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