Walmart Booster Batteries

Mundo said:
Thanks for the link.
I guess this battery solution is resourceful, hope they hold up to the demand.
Click to expand...

BESTEK 600A Portable Jump Starter and Power Source Review

See this model pump out 90 Amps.

I want 3-10 Amps for pedal assist.

I will not use the control module'; just the battery.

[youtube]YhVTan1vIoA[/youtube]
 
Definitely add struts to the rack. I had a topeak rack with a 36v20ah ping on it that catastrophically failed when I hit a bump at speed. It locked up and popped my rear tire when it crushed down into and almost caused me to have a bad wreck on some rough pavement. That rack was a Topeak rated for 55lbs and the bike was only used for city commuting! Word to the wise...

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=68480&p=1033928&hilit#p1033928
 
Also, it is possible that your seat post will break even if the rack holds up without struts under it. There are several on here who have had that happen. Please keep us posted on how these batteries hold up.
Do you have the tools/skills to do a capacity test on them to see if they are anywhere near their rated capacity? I am sure many want to know as you might have stumbled onto a real find if they live up to their specs.
144wh for $40 is a pretty good deal
 
ecycler said:
Also, it is possible that your seat post will break even if the rack holds up without struts under it. There are several on here who have had that happen. Please keep us posted on how these batteries hold up.
Do you have the tools/skills to do a capacity test on them to see if they are anywhere near their rated capacity? I am sure many want to know as you might have stumbled onto a real find if they live up to their specs.
144wh for $40 is a pretty good deal
Click to expand...

If you consider the built in balancer, LED charge indicators, ac charger, and the dc car charger included, the deal becomes sweeter.

Add to that a 2 year unconditional money back guarantee for only $3 it is possibly the cheapest battery solution.

How did the seat posts break? How much weight, speed, on road or on trails with jumps?

I ride on paved toads.
 
I don't know the formula for foot pounds of torque, however, you do have the batteries pushed back pretty far.

This is where the weight distribution changes dramatically.

I ride Mundo's, this for me is a non issue.

HOPE is not a good model for and success with your rack, especially when you hit that little bump that creates enough down force!

Remember, the seat post is holding the battery and you!

2 struts at the right location should be fine.
 
Boyntonstu said:
ecycler said:
Also, it is possible that your seat post will break even if the rack holds up without struts under it. There are several on here who have had that happen. Please keep us posted on how these batteries hold up.
Do you have the tools/skills to do a capacity test on them to see if they are anywhere near their rated capacity? I am sure many want to know as you might have stumbled onto a real find if they live up to their specs.
144wh for $40 is a pretty good deal
Click to expand...

If you consider the built in balancer, LED charge indicators, ac charger, and the dc car charger included, the deal becomes sweeter.

Add to that a 2 year unconditional money back guarantee for only $3 it is possibly the cheapest battery solution.

How did the seat posts break? How much weight, speed, on road or on trails with jumps?

I ride on paved toads.
Click to expand...

It is possible the specs are severely inflated you might only get 2-4ah usable out of them. Just set up a test rig with a light, heater, or RC charger and find out! The warranty is a pretty solid kicker, though as you could at least get your money back! You should at least try to move the batteries as far forward as possible for better bike balance and to limit the leverage on the seat tube if you are determined not to triangulate the rack.
 
It is possible the specs are severely inflated you might only get 2-4ah usable out of them. Just set up a test rig with a light, heater, or RC charger and find out! The warranty is a pretty solid kicker, though as you could at least get your money back! You should at least try to move the batteries as far forward as possible for better bike balance and to limit the leverage on the seat tube if you are determined not to triangulate the rack.[/quote]

I have an idea of how to build a front frame rack for the batteries.

Selection_013_zpsit4mtgpn.jpg

http://www.rei.com/product/888332/novar
 
Still wondering how much capacity he really can get from those, at bike ride rates of use. Wondering even more which thread the info might eventually be put in.

Nothing wrong with the metal zip ties idea, or baling wire, or hose clamps, or even handcuff grade plastic ties. Just not a great idea to use just a few of the cheap ones.

The rack will be fine, the whole point of this battery idea is that it's small and light. Those racks handle 4-8 pounds fine. A 16 pound ping needs additional struts that kick back to the bottom end of the seat post tube.
 
Impossible to say it's a good deal till we see what capacity you get with them. No doubt you are too cheap to buy a 12 buck watt meter, so we'll never know if you have the rated capacity, when discharged at say, a reasonable 10 amps draw. Like riding at 18 mph.
 
^^^ Yes, please test the capacity at 10amp discharge. Even a ghetto method would be fine to see if they are any where near their ratings. You are wasting your own and everyone else's time with this effort until you do this. As a few of us have said stated, at the continuous 10-20amp load for a low powered ebike they could get a small fraction of their 12,000mah that is listed and if that is the case it is hopeless to use them as you will have strap on 3-5 times as many in parallel. However, if they are able to deliver you just found about the cheapest wh/$ deal with a warranty I have seen.

Here is a decent writeup I found quickly on google to help shed some light:
http://www.tjinguytech.com/charging-how-tos/light-bulb-load

1. Get 120watts worth of 12v light bulbs.
2. Hook up the lights to one of the fully charged batteries.
3. Time how long it takes for the batteries to discharge to a reasonable limit for the chemistry.

During this process you can find out if they have their own BMS and if it cuts off the battery when they reach a proper critical voltage otherwise you are going to have to sack up and install a volt or watt meter on the bike anyways so you don't over discharge and kill them on your first ride.

Monitor the cell voltage throughout the test and make sure to double check the load of the bulbs (resistors) so that you know exactly how many amps you are drawing. Then it is simply a matter of multiplying how many hours it took to discharge times the number of amps you were drawing. If these really are 12ah batteries, they should be able to power a 120w worth of lightbulbs for over an hour. If you see the voltage sag badly on this test then you should immediately return them to walmart and not waste any more time on it.

This method will not be anywhere near the more exact methods some of us with engineering degrees and expensive equipment use, but it will tell you if you are anywhere near the ballpark of what will be needed for a low powered ebike. I hope you surprise us!
 
Also, crack one open and show us what cells are inside so we can shed some more light on what you have there as well.
 
12Ah @10A continuous?

I suspect someone in “sales engineering” probably calculated Ah using incorrect “series string” math. Either that or they’re flat-out lying with the “caveat” that it’s “equivalent” to 12Ah in some format or another.

OP loves starting threads - related:

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=74610&p=1126350#p1126350

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=74893&p=1130403#p1130403
 
Jeebus. :roll: Wasting everyone's time x3. I am about done trying to help this guy as he refuses to listen and learn and is just junking up a great forum. Are we getting trolled by a 12 year old?
 
I've watched some of that guy's inverter vids. Good vids.
I'm guessing you chose to do away with the magic box?

So close to 2000w from a pack, but for a short time and the cells got hot?
I'm a little confused because he said the leads also got hot. My 10ga ebike leads don't get hot @ even 6kw. 10ah hk lipos also don't mind.

I disagree the product will last nearly 3 years when kept fully charged and barely used. Fully charged I bet it loses nearly half capacity in the first year in a temperate climate, and it's scary if used for high draw causing the pouches to heat noticeably.

Lead acid would be better as a jump pack, although this would be better for portable more regular light use imo.
Curious to see if they work for the bike.
 
I think advice in this thread has been the best, but also that you fellas are being to hard on a newcomer.

Op, you should def do the capacity tests and make sure you meter them when running naked. Of course, wtf they are warrantied, but you still wanna know what you did wrong if they fail/ are insufficient right?

I think we're all curious, and will guess the 48v pack may at least sustain a 1kw setup for 5mi in avg conditions. Imo might even squeeze 10mi depending on how much peddling, inclines/weight, and of course speed (20 vs 25mph)
 
Yeah I am done with this guy.
I just wanted to know the price, so $40usd for 12V and who knows what Ah and who knows what discharge rate/batteries they are.
Just so ya know, one of this guy's (OP) thread, posted a video of some "youtube geek" explaining everything, disassembling the cable box explaining EVERYTHING in a 30minute video, but fails to open the battery box. He claims his review is impartial, I call BS on that punk! The Videos load test was a heater, 2kw inverter, battery tester, 2 DMM and got up to 90Amps for a certain amount of time, and the cable box and wires got hot to the touch.

I'd just go out and buy this
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.56-volt-40-ah-battery.1000787508.html
56V 4Ah for $220cdn. But you'd need a charger too, so more money, $80cdn($50usd)
$160usd in four 12V walmart is about $215cdn.
 
nutspecial said:
I think advice in this thread has been the best, but also that you fellas are being to hard on a newcomer.

Op, you should def do the capacity tests and make sure you meter them when running naked. Of course, wtf they are warrantied, but you still wanna know what you did wrong if they fail/ are insufficient right?

I think we're all curious, and will guess the 48v pack may at least sustain a 1kw setup for 5mi in avg conditions. Imo might even squeeze 10mi depending on how much peddling, inclines/weight, and of course speed (20 vs 25mph)
Click to expand...

That will be my real world curiousity test. I plan to see the max speed and then set 20mph without PA and see how far it takes me until the speed drops to 15.. After that, I will see how far PA will take me at 15mph.

This is all the testing that I require to determine whether or not my $12 was well spent.
 
That's about all I would need to see too. How far it will go when you ride it about 20 mph will do.

But, you spend 12 bucks for four of them? or 12 each? I thought you had more like $80 total in these. But I'm not going back to review multiple threads to find that again.

If you can go 10 miles at 20 mph with these, for 48 bucks total, SCORE!. My suspicion though, is that they will not deliver enough at 10 amps load to go quite that far.
 
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