What 36v 500w geared motor?

[Ajax]

I have been riding an electric bike for about a year and a half now. I use it for commuting to work each day (30klm round trip). It is made of a 36v 500w golden motor rear hub and 36v 20ahr LiFePO4 batteries in a 26" MTB. I had to replace the rim and spokes the hub motor came in after about 3 months of riding. The bike has done about 7,000klm's and has been great. Because I believe I have damaged the hub through mishandling, and the need to tinker, I am now considering changing the setup for a motor that drives via the front crank and gears (aka elation & cyclone). I have been searching for a 36v 500w (or thereabouts) geared motor. The best I can find is this motor -->



" 36 Volt 450 Watt Electric Bicycle Gear Motor
36VDC 450W electric bicycle motor with built-in gear reduction transmission. Output shaft speed: 550RPM. Includes 9 tooth sprocket for 1/2" x 1/8" bicycle chain. Powerful four brush permanent magnet electric motor design. 100% ball bearing construction. 24" long power leads. Shaft rotation reversible by reversing power leads. Three bolts on front side of motor for mounting. Motor dimensions: 4-1/4" outside diameter x 3-1/2" long excluding transmission and output shaft, 4-1/2" long including transmission and output shaft.
item # MOT-36450G $99.95"
http://www.electricscooterparts.com/motors.html

The features I like is that this motor is narrow (no bottom bracket changing), geared, 36v ( I am trying to stay away from 24v for range and amp reasons) and approx 500w. I would prefer brushless.

I was wondering if anyone had experince with this motor (especially reliability), or had a better suggestion?

Cheers

 

[liteCycles]

Haven't dealt with it my self but a 48 tooth chain ring would give you about 103 rpm at the crank. So that looks doable. At $99 it's pretty cheap but what would the total cost be when done. Freewheel crank? Mounting clamps. Is that a true RC motor? So would you need to deal with pwm or would your existing controller work?

Also I think the RC setups are a little less efficient overall because of the drive train reduction in rpm that is needed. And I wonder if 450w is for the motor or at the cog? So you would have a slight loss getting power back to the wheel. Might not get the same performance that you are used to. But in general RC motors themselves are more efficient, can be much lighter, and lots of cheap high power options are available.

 

[Grinhill]

That's not an RC motor, it's a brushed DC motor.

Is your existing motor/controller brushed or brushless (2-wire=brushed, 3-wire=brushless) ?

Going to a geared system like this, the main differences you would notice are:
- it will be noisier than the hub
- it will have better performance up hills, and possibly higher top speed as well.

 

[Ajax]

Grinhill

The golden motor hub is brushless. So I will need a new controller. In Australia I've seen the elation and cyclone importer. They both stock 24v 500w brushless that require bottom bracket mods. I was hoping for 36V (for greater range and less amps - I already have batteries) and 500w without going to a ball bearing bottom bracket (I'd rather keep the sealed bottom bracket unit). I see quite a few people are going the route of RC engines. I like the idea, but I want something now, that is reliable to use, without me having to spend alot of time and $ on R&D.

After a bit more reaserch, the motor I am looking at is made by Unite. http://en.unitemotor.com/ and is called an MY1018. It seems a few of the guys on this forum have spent quite some time running the 24v version at 36v (with lots of cooling mods). They seem to say they can get noisey if not greased, and if they are kept within their design parameters are quite reliable. I don't know how long the brushes will last. Maybe I could repair or make brushes when the first lot wear out. Decisions decisions. Thanks.

Ajax

 

[JS Tyro]

My objection to brushes is those motors tend to be much less efficient than brushless motors. Since the batteries are so bulky and expensive, putting money into a better motor seems a better option than spending on more battery for a less efficient motor.

If you can find the brushes, it's trivial (usually) to replace them. Lots of things use brushed motors and some (Dremel tools) seem to rely on high-priced brushes with artificially short life to provide part of the company's income stream. Those brushes quit after only being minimally worn down. <grumble/>

 

[gerhardt]

I am also interested in this MOT-36450G motor and the 36 volt 600 watt MOT-36600G motor for $149.95. I would like to operate them at 72 volts and higher watts. I need 35 mph speed on the level and 20 mph on 10% grade. Any ideas for better synthetic grease and liquid cooling? Do I have to upgrade the brushes for 72 volts? Does anyone have a recommendation for a 72 volt brushed controller I can use? Can I use the output from a 36 volt controller and feed it into a separate cuircuit board with 100v or higher MOSFETS and capacitors?
Don Gerhardt

 

[rkosiorek]

<snip>
The features I like is that this motor is narrow (no bottom bracket changing), geared, 36v ( I am trying to stay away from 24v for range and amp reasons) and approx 500w. I would prefer brushless.

I was wondering if anyone had experince with this motor (especially reliability), or had a better suggestion?

Cheers

this is a very common motor made by UNITE MOTORS in China model #MY1018Z. search the forum for MY1018 and you'll find several people are using it. comercially it is used on the Currie IZip bikes sold at Canadian Tire in Canada.

$90.00 is WAAAAYYY OVERPRICED for this motor TNC Scooters has it for 50 or 60 bucks. on eBay you can often find a new one for far less.

rick

 

[GTA1]

The motor is clunky, but heavily built and apparently quite reliable.

I have it at 24V on a Canadian Tire Schwinn I Zip and it works fine on the rear wheel.

Using it on the front crankset would get much better performance than using it driving an ungeared rear wheel.