what do you guys do for lighting

Leeps

100 W
Joined
Jan 3, 2007
Messages
192
Thinking about how most available lights are meant for 12 volts do you guys usually just series 12 volt lights together like xyster does. Or do you buy a dc-dc converter. And at the same time im interested in methods of attaching a light to the handlebars thats nicer than a hoseclamp.
In case nobody guessed i noticed that this is an area of our hobby that gets little recognition, so im thinking of making a led headlight that can accept a wide variety of input voltages so it would be plug and play. I really wanted to know what you guys are doing now, if the voltage compatibility is really such a benificial feature, what features would be wanted, just how much lighting power would be wanted. The toughest part about this is the mount to the handlebars that looks acceptable for a product. Im hoping to wrap this up by the end of next summer. Also what would be an acceptable price for such an item.
im looking for ideas guys
Joe
 
I use a dc-dc converter, but they aren't cheap. On one of my led lights, I have a simple 78xx voltage regulator. It's limited to 35v input.
LED lights are easier to deal with since the current draw is so low you don't need to worry about efficiency as much.
For incandescent bulbs, you might be able to get away with a simple PWM, with no inductor or filter cap.

Look on ebay for "5w luxeon" flashlights. I think they make handlebar clamps for them also. You could take out the batteries and stuff a voltage regulator inside the case.
 
Hi Leeps

Yeah its a good point, the LED lights last ages on normal batteries so not sure if it would be a good seller, normal halogen lamps chew the power however.

I use a DC-DC converter for a model plane, it puts out 6V and 4A which is enough to power my cateye halogen lights, its small and light and works great.

http://www.aurorra.co.uk/cgi-bin/trolleyed_public.cgi?action=showprod_MRBEC450356V

Cheers Knoxie
 
i have some 12V dc converters that i designed and built. these are based on National Semiconductors LM2576 simple swtcher series of chips.

they actually produce 13.8Vdc at 3A to match what automotive lighting systems expect to use for full output. Bob Macree has tested one of these and has suggested that the 3A output is conservative. he has used one at 5A but i don't know for how long.

i use mine regularly at 55V (on a 48V NiMh system) to power a pair of 20W HID lamps. the design is set for 60V maximum input.

YPEDAL you have been waiting patiently for yours and i have one more experiment i want to try with the weather proofing that i want to try. sorry for the delay.

rick
 

Attachments

  • 300523108_93a9cf94ae.jpg
    300523108_93a9cf94ae.jpg
    22.4 KB · Views: 3,638
  • 241925787_897191ad91.jpg
    241925787_897191ad91.jpg
    27.1 KB · Views: 3,636
Nice job with the simple switcher. I have one of those around here somewhere, but I didn't get the board.

I ran across a nice surplus one the other day:
The output can be trimmed to 13.5v.
Can't beat the price, and it's already put together.

This is from:
http://www.candhsales.biz/cgi-bin/shop991/shop.pl/page=start_shopping.htm

DC TO DC CONVERTER DC to DC CONVERTER LUCENT/TYCO, #JW030C1-M. Output is 15 VDC @ 2 amps. (30 watts) with trim adjustment that allows a ±10% voltage adjustment via external adjustment trimmer. Digital on/off control pin is provided. Input voltage 36 to 75 VDC (0.95 amps). Line and load regulation ± 0.1% max. Over-current, over-voltage and thermal protection. Average efficiency 90%. Printed circuit mounting with integral electrically isolated heat sink. Dimensions: 2-1/4’’ wide x 2-3/8’’ high x 1/2’’ deep. The connecting pins extend 7/32" below the bottom of the case Stock #PS2401 $6.50

I heard they were closing their Pasadena store and everything there was 1/2 price or something. I don't know if this means their online store is affected.
 

Attachments

  • PS2401.jpg
    PS2401.jpg
    11.5 KB · Views: 3,604
G'day Rick !

I've been bench testing the one's you sent a while back, but with a 30w fog-light they get HOT... :shock: Might be useful as hand warmers over here this week :D *( - 30 celcius all freaking week... my poor dog is about to loose her mind.. she loves this cold.. but no way am i going out there .. i'm a whimp :evil: )

I have not popped any yet, i've actually used them to recharge my RC truck with a 36v nimh pack ! hehe..
 
Ypedal said:
G'day Rick !

I've been bench testing the one's you sent a while back, but with a 30w fog-light they get HOT... :shock: Might be useful as hand warmers over here this week :D *( - 30 celcius all freaking week... my poor dog is about to loose her mind.. she loves this cold.. but no way am i going out there .. i'm a whimp :evil: )

I have not popped any yet, i've actually used them to recharge my RC truck with a 36v nimh pack ! hehe..

i noticed the heat problem as well. the newer version has a much larger heatsink. also some of the partts have been tweaked in value to operate more efficiently. i hope to get the coating right. i've got about 100 of the boards waiting for it. with the larger heatsink 40W is no problem. but they will still be warm to the touch. that is a good thing in -12C weather. i guess right now -12 would feel like summer to you. good handwarmers. too bad they don't fit into my gloves.

i also like the Lucent ones in the post above yours. they also get hot and require a heatsink to be added. originally the Lucent ones were meant for intermittant Telecom use (i have a couple i got from Active Surplus in toronto ages ago)
 
Well guys i was leaning towards something stronger than what you would find in a normal flashlight. I was thinking of 5 of the luxeon k2 leds wired in series running at 1 amp. This would be 15 watts of leds. Then having a buck boost converter going into a constant current source. With the electronics im pretty confident of myself on, im open for suggestions on features, and advice on the expected input voltage spread. What i really need help on is the mounting, i cant think of a good looking method of mounting this thing to a handlebar. Im hoping to offer these for sale by the end of next of summer.
Joe
 
Fasteners are a bugger...

Quick-Release rings from seat posts might work well..

Hose clamps ( look kinda cheap and ratty.. but work )

Zip ties with some creativity ( similar to hose clamps tho )

Might want to check with Justin from Ebikes.ca on his DrainBrain mounts.. those work well...
 
Quite coincidentally I'm using the identical black ABS DWV plumbing fittings as xyster's single central MR16 for housings. Most of the homebrew bikelights found on the web use various plumbing pieces.

I have to agree with you that while there's a lot of good ideas for enclosures, there's precious little innovative on the web with respect to the mount. All of them, every single last one I've checked out, either go with a screw hose clamp or hack off the sled from a manufactured bike light. :roll: If I were to go that far, I'd rather just keep the whole thing intact & mod it to a Cree or Seoul.

This is the only mount I've found that appeals to me because it seems that you could use it for either a single or dual head setup. At 15 bucks though from batteryspace you could get a whole bikelight with mount included for less. I only include it here to serve as a template for anyone who can run with it & come up with a simple homebrew version. I'll probably just breakdown & order one with my next batch of batteries.
 

Attachments

  • 1A.jpg
    1A.jpg
    9 KB · Views: 3,496
  • 1B.jpg
    1B.jpg
    8.1 KB · Views: 3,496
  • 1.jpg
    1.jpg
    8.8 KB · Views: 3,496
Let me be clear... I have completely stopped ingesting anything from bottles without labels.

As for lights, the only thing that comes quickly to mind is a different kind of hose clamp: With the addition of a bit of drilled aluminum flat (or angle), you could keep the cost down.

I might try to find a better color than green, tho.

:)
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2732.JPG
    IMG_2732.JPG
    25.5 KB · Views: 3,472
Thanks for the input guys right now im doing some work with the leds they are quite amazing, five of them might not be necessary. Im seriously thinking that running them at half power most of the time and then having a high beam function. The other half of the problem is heat, all 5 would give me 15 watts of heat, which is actually hard to deal with when trying to keep the unit small and neat looking. Ill try to get a picture up tomorrow of one of these things running at 3 watts.
Joe
 
Here are some shots i took of the mighty 5 watt led. The pictures arent that great i took them with my cellphone but hey.
 

Attachments

  • Picture 0184.jpg
    Picture 0184.jpg
    209.9 KB · Views: 2,198
  • Picture 0185.jpg
    Picture 0185.jpg
    20.3 KB · Views: 3,356
  • Picture 0186.jpg
    Picture 0186.jpg
    39.1 KB · Views: 3,357
well i mounted the led to a heatsink and pushed her to 1.17 amps for a total of 4.38 watts. I still plan on having 5 of these in the headlight but im thinking of having the normal running power at 2 watts each due to heat problems with a high beam function upping it to 3.5 watts each.
well heres some pics
 

Attachments

  • Picture 0188.jpg
    Picture 0188.jpg
    143.4 KB · Views: 1,542
  • Picture 0189.jpg
    Picture 0189.jpg
    18.4 KB · Views: 2,079
  • Picture 0190.jpg
    Picture 0190.jpg
    48.1 KB · Views: 2,079
Back
Top