Anything that limits the current is going to be dissipating that power inside itself, if it's a linear device. If it's a switchmode device that is smoothing the voltage/current ripple enough to not blow up a controller (or a battery's BMS) then it's a full DC-DC converter, but either way it has to handle the full power of the whole system, all the time not just when it's doing limiting. This generally means it's going to be as large as the controller...and do the same job as the controller...so instead just use the controller to do this job--it's already designed to do it.
If the controller you're using does not have a user-adjustable current limit, you can change the circuit between the controller's internal battery-current monitoring shunt and the controller's MCU, to vary the voltage the MCU gets out of the circuit under your control.
If you change it so it gets less voltage than it should then it thinks the current is lower than it really is, and if more voltage then higher than reality.
Each controller is different, so there's no single universal drop-in board you would use on the same specific points on every board, but if you find the shunt, and trace teh thin traces from it back towards the MCU, there will be "stuff" between them. The scaling can be done in different places, but the simplest is at the output of the buffer (usually an op-amp, probalby an 8 or 12 or 16 pin SMD chip) from the shunt. We can work out details if you want to go this route.
Otherwise you can just get a DC-DC buck/boost converter with adjustable current limiting (and either a fixed voltage output or one that adjusts to what you want the controller to run on), that is capable of handling the full power (wattage) of the system under worst case conditions at highest assist level, and put that between battery and controller. (but it will be as big as or bigger than the controller, if it's really capable of that).
The device itself that you show above looks like part of a circuit, rather than a complete system to do the job in this case. I looked up the LTC4415 p/n that's on the drawing, and found this
https://www.analog.com/media/en/technical-documentation/data-sheets/4415fa.pdf
which shows it only handles up to 4A, at up to 5.5v, so it wouldn't work for your system.
Dual 50mΩ Monolithic Ideal Diodes
n 1.7V to 5.5V Operating Range
n Up to 4A Adjustable Current Limit for Each Diode
n Low Reverse Leakage Current (1µA Max)
n 15mV Forward Drop in Regulation
n Smooth Switchover in Diode ORing
n Load Current Monitor
n Precision Enable Thresholds to Set Switchover
n Soft-Start to Limit Inrush Current on Start-Up
n Status Pins to Indicate Forward Diode Conduction
n Current and Thermal Limit with Warning
n Thermally Enhanced 16-Lead MSOP and DFN
(3mm × 5mm) Packages
So...something similar to this with enough power dissipation capability and high enough voltage would work to limit current...but it will be large and/or have a large heatsink and/or have a noisy fan to move a lot of air (or all three), and it will be wasting the power of whatever differences there are across itself.
Note that generally devices that lower current do so by reducing the voltage available. That probably won't work for your purpose because the controller needs a certain voltage to operate; if limiting the current enough drops the voltage enough the controller will shut down.
I'm not certain how you can boost the voltage in the process of limiting current in a way that won't still drop voltage because the controller will be trying to draw more current than is now available to it....