What is the strongest motor for hill climbing ?

I doubt we've concluded what can create the most torque. I am sure two 12t macs or a really bad ass mid drive with an excellent range of gearing would surely create some intense torque options. I really doubt we will fully be capable of answering this though without some specialty like a guy doing various hill climb tests or dymo stuff.

I wonder if cell_man (paul from em3ev.com) has other gearing or winding available that is unlisted. I'll send him an e-mail.
 
migueralliart said:
John in CR said:
A bike for sale is a completely different animal than a conversion kit for sale or an ebike fore yourself. Don't you have any rules you need to fit, or are you planning to sell it as "offroad only"?

China may put over 10 million new DD 2 wheelers on the road every year, but not in their mountainous regions. 2wd might be a consideration though.
Click to expand...

If you go to PR you'd find there are people moving around in bicycles with engines and things like that most of em I've seen going more than 30mph. The only rule I'd probably have to obey is the 22mph one and even thou they don't pay close attention to bicycles. Perhaps it is better to market them as off road only like you said.

Dual DD is not an option the thought of going with 2 controllers and throttles is a big no no.
Click to expand...
I don't know, at least where I lived, on the Gold (North) Coast, I never saw many bicycles. It's the Scooter epicenter of the universe. In fact, the Scooter culture permeates the entire Island, with the emphasis on go-fast parts and bling. They covert ostentatious display and noise, the antihesis of the caracteristics that many of us here seek when we build an Ebike. And I don't see any real social need to save money on Gas. I don''t recall gas as being expensive there(isn't it subsidized by the US, like most everything on the Island?)and the scooters are great on gas anyhow.
Sorry, I just don't see any demand for Ebikes there, not when, for the same money, they can buy a Yumbo 125, mod the heck out of it to go 75 MPH and take it to the drag strip.
After all, after baseball, drag racing is possibly the most popular activity for the Puerto Ricians.
Different culture, not evolved(or devolved, depending on POV)enough for EV demand.
 
Sounds to me like roads might be steeper than 13% too there to me.

Learn to fabricate swingarms like Farfle, then cromotor them, or use the John in CR motor or whatever. It will also allow you to use smaller rear wheels after you adjust the ride height, if you go with a 135mm motor such as the clyte HS.
 
Using a 2812 in a 20" front wheel I have been able to lug a quarter tonne up a 10% hill at about 17 mph and moderate pedaling. Battery pack is 72v, 20A and I was outputting about 2.3 kW of power.

the 2812 is slooow, but does cargo duty really well. I am unable to tease more than 1.5 kW out of it on the flats.
 
Definitely true. We know hit it with a sledgehammer works. But are those 135mm dropout motors? I thought they were wider.

What would rock for hills, would be a motor with 28mm magnets like the 9c, but the same diameter rotor as the magic pie. Dual magic pies might be the best thing in the end. Dual anything will kick some ass on hills, since you cut the heat of each motor in half.

1500w is enough power to climb a hill under 15% pretty good. So give each pie 800w and you will have the power but not melt anything.

But if cellmans dd motor is a slow one nowdays, that will work good enough I bet. Give it 1500w, 48v 30 amps.
 
I'm a little late to this party... but I cannot speak though for a single-motor solution.

However I feel the 9C is a good middleweight contender: In 2010 - I participated in the annual Chilly Hilly over on Bainbridge Island and there was one hill that had a 17% grade going around a turn; at the time I had the FWD hardtail: It struggled and I had to down-shift to help it, but it made it.... no way could it do it continuous though.

Today I have a 2WD using 2806 9Cs: One a 26" Front and another on the 24" rear, with identical controllers programmed slightly different to prevent the Front from slipping on starts, though otherwise completely unified in every aspect except for the separate CAs. I can climb any hill in Seattle with gusto and still have very good top speed. Other than the cobblely dirt roads, I have yet to meet a paved road I couldn't climb fully loaded for cross-country when configured as 2WD.

Safe travels, KF
 
Hello , i am suggesting you the Crystalyte HT3525 motor is an excellent hill climber.I use this motor on a downhill bike for close to 6 months now and the motor is like new.

All T configuration motors are nice hill climbers.I am not suggesting you 9C its kinda weak for this application.

S configuration motors heat up more quickly even with holes in the motor cover.But the T configuration stays cooler and runs smoother in Hill climbing
 
Whether you use one motor or two, either add a temp sensor or ask cell_man to add one, he charges $15 per motor. Use the max volts you can afford, and then limit the amps. Start low (20A?) and monitor the temps (your hills may be steeper and longer than mine). Slowly raise the amps until you reached your temp limit, or if motor(s) are still cool enough, stop raising amps when it's too high for your batteries max amp limit. I do not recommend using more than 30A on the 9C, but I confess I have no personal experience with them.
 
Since you are doing R&D for a product, it should be worth the money to try the HT. Not sure where you find the hills to test one in Florida though.

If you sent one to me, I'd be happy to do the hill testing, then send it on to you paying the shipping to you. I haven't tried the HT motor, but no job makes buying one impossible.
I've got a nice tall mountain pass with 8% in ebike range from my house, and on the other side is a road with 13% for one mile. 70 miles away, Emory pass is 10 miles of non stop 8-10%.
 
Thanks all for all your responses I narrowed down my choices (for a 26" rim) to;

135mm dropout
MAC 12T , MP3 , 9C clone in it's slowest wind (from cell man)

150mm dropout
CRomotor and 540X

Notes on the frame building;

I'd like to get some input regarding suspension geometries and etc if you guys know someone in this forum that can help me out on this please pm me.I'm willing to pay $ for consulting on this.

I'm targeting 2 options;
1- TO make a hardtail with a rear 135mm and lots of space on the triangle
2- To make a full suspension in both 135mm rear and 150mm rear

The goal is to be able to fit at least 750whr of battery in the triangle and conceal all wiring from the controller which is to be mounted in the downtube.
 
Hmm.

If mountain climbing is your main target, and you are not willing to go 2WD, then I would really look into those motors that take the longest to overheat at your preferred speed. That means, either a geared hubbie or a big big vented DD. I don't know about the mac, but I can compare it in the ebike.ca simulator, and it overheats faster than the BMC v2 Torque. So if you want geared, then that would be my preference.

For a DD, bigger is better in shedding heat. I don't have experience with the X5s, but the sim says it will overheat faster than my cromotor. Therefore, the cromotor would be my preference. Always has been... :mrgreen:

Comparing the BMC with the cromotor makes it easy to choose the .--.--.--.--.--.--.--.--.--. cromotor of course :twisted:

too bad that you can not do the sim with the cromotor anymore. Probably need to check with Mr Vass or Justin to find out what happened to it..
 
Also note, With the Cycle Analyst V3 you can make the bike automatically slow down if a temperature sensor is getting too hot.

If you want lots of hill climbing and a bit more speed (40km/h) go with the MAC 10T 48V 40amps and use the temperature sensor.
 
Here my two cents. Ive owned the run of the mill 9C style hub motors. GM 901, two Ebike Kit motos 1st and 2nd Gen. I nearly smoked the first and second motor I cooked the third. My friend came over my house and cooked his conhis motor. So when i got my BMC V2T from a friend I was skeptical. 44v 20A wasnt cutting it. This little cute thing cant possible scoot me over these hills and live to tell the tale. Well I applied 66v and a 40A controller to it. Me and my friend went for a ride tackling the hills in next neighborhood. My friend smoked his while mine was still chugging along. I actually kept going.. came back to see about him and went back home to pick up my car to give his bike a lift back to my house. Im a 300+ tub of lard so this motor had to deal with my weight and these hills and after all of this i come home and the motor is barely luke warm. Id say geared motors for the the win. Mines has a top speed of 35mph in the flat. It does seem to bog down on hills but the speed levels off like its in a granny gear and pulls right through them. Suprising amount of torque for a small package.
[youtube]9QwIwvpUPbM[/youtube]
 
Ok i will also give you two examples on how the HT motor i was telling you before.It really performs awesomely with no pedaling at all.

[youtube]iuGbYynmJ1g[/youtube]

[youtube]5TrX2z-XkW8[/youtube]

I don't know if this is visible but the average grade on that mountain is 6% and top of the hill its like 14% grade.I also tested out the bike in a large uphill road over 18% grade and i was going 40km/hour.

Hope this information is useful
 
No hills where you are but dry sand high on the beach will create plenty of load to simulate hills in S. Florida
 
You are all missing an important opportunity: Chain drive. The strongest motor for hill climbing, given any particular motor power, is a motor driving a gear. A chain drive bike can have the motor going at full RPM, full power, full effciency, no overheating, and crawling along at a snail's pace if you desire. The only limit is the strength of the drive components.

Although Stokemonkey is once again temporarily unavailable, the idea of hakcing a chain drive still has merit!
 
http://ebikessf.com/H4030

If you're talking about a hub motor that fits into a 135mm dropout and goes into a 26" wheel, This is going to be the strongest and baddest motor that will fit.

ilia over at ebikessf broke this thing in by climbing some of his san francisco hills at 40mph.. :) :lol: :mrgreen:

MAC/BMC are still pretty good in the lower speed windings though. 8T can take some hills, but 10T is better.
 
EbikeSF has a new website and they withdrew the FAQs page. I always found that FAQ page to be quite informative in the learning & purchasing decision. :(
 
John is brilliant. Testing in deep sand will exceed the load of climbing hills. I shoulda known that, given that several of the times I smoked a motor I was riding sand more than hills.

So do your testing in 4" of sugar, and you'll find out fast if it cuts it or not.

I tend to agree, the HT might be the best choice if you want more than 1500w, but less than 5000. I just can't say for sure, having never touched one.

If you are fabricating swing arms, I'd definitely be looking at smaller diameter rear wheels. Maybe not scooter small, but 24" instead of 26" makes sense. Look at moped sizes too.
 
5405 in 16'' moto rim. that is what im planning to go for.

54xx needs much narrower dropouts than cromotor..

Just thinking what is the best bike for off-road. Considering greyborg as it is ebike built.. + wide dropouts with great torque protection + huge suspension + battery mount ect...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

TheBeastie
AKM-100H 350W motor configs 48V-328RPM vs 36V-201/260RPM
Replies
6
Views
2,965
Aloles
Aloles
H
    • Like
Freego ES-10S issues and modification questions
Replies
8
Views
4,804
valshin
V
U
What powerful rear geared hub motor?
Replies
12
Views
6,914
Bullfrog
B
T
Q128H Light & Torquey 800W Hub Motor
2
Replies
26
Views
10,449
neptronix
neptronix
A
R/C EV 'groundskeeper' project
Replies
6
Views
5,124
sleep4life
S
Back
Top