What throttle for this controller?(RC)

[veloman]

I have nearly all the parts in my cart at hobby king, but now I need to figure out what throttle to use in my system.

I really just want something SIMPLE. My knowledge with electronics and RC stuff is pretty limited. I prefer a thumb throttle if possible. So what do I use with this controller? http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=2163

Is there anything else I need to complete my entire motor system? (yes I am using a 240w motor, it's a completely new design that is only an assist). Oh yeah, I also need a power input for the charger - any ideas there? Thanks.

SK-2826-1000 - TGY AerodriveXp SK Series 28-26 1000Kv /.. $14.95 80
100+ TR_P25A - TURNIGY Plush 25amp Speed Controller $12.48 47
40 TR_PC - TURNIGY BESC Programming Card $6.95 50
100+ T5000.4S.20 - Turnigy 5000mAh 4S 20C Lipo Pack $29.99 633
100+ TR-Wattmeter - Turnigy Watt Meter and power Analyzer $23.95 129
100+ CY-B6plus - CY- B6 plus balancer (2-6S series) $24.99

 

[johnrobholmes]

That controller is TINY! You will likely smoke it even with that small motor you are using. The motor is so fast that the reduction amount needed will likely burn up most of the power in friction as well. But, maybe you have some superior designs that work around this?


The only current way is to splice a POT throttle into a servo tester. You will need a 5v power source for both units. I am not aware of any POT throttles that are thumb type.

 

[vanilla ice]

So is that one of those 5k ohm deals? Besides the expensive magura twist, where can you get those? Are there any cheap ones?

 

[veloman]

My design takes into account the 10000rpm motor. There is no reduction unit or drivetrain.

That controller is 25A, which is what is recommended for that motor. Maybe I'll go to a 40A to be safe. I only plan on drawing 100-200watts max.

Is there a thread on this site that can better explain the throttle design?


I keep getting the feeling that I shouldn't be playing with RC parts because I often run into these problems.

 

[MitchJi]

Hi,

My design takes into account the 10000rpm motor. There is no reduction unit or drivetrain.

Actually 12.5k rpm.

That controller is 25A, which is what is recommended for that motor. Maybe I'll go to a 40A to be safe. I only plan on drawing 100-200watts max.

But it is intended to turn a prop on an RC plane, not to move 200 pounds of bike and rider up a hill. These might help:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7504

Castle HV Controllers - Use Extra Caps!

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=7991

too long battery wires will kill controllers, use extra caps

Is there a thread on this site that can better explain the throttle design?

This might help:
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=12196

RC throttle interface build tutorial........

 

[AussieJester]

My design takes into account the 10000rpm motor. There is no reduction unit or drivetrain.

Perhaps if you were to explain your design a little people might be able to better assist you with your
RC needs

KiM

 

[johnrobholmes]

My guess is a friction drive

I killed quite a few little outrunners in my first testings.

 

[dontsendbubbamail]

Some suggestions.

BM-6 Cell Voltage Monitor 2-6S Lipo (New Version) - You need something that will keep you from going LVC on the cell level.

Eagle Tree Data Logger This will tell you what is really going on with your system temp, voltage, and amp wise. To see real time values, you can get an LCD display. Some people extend the wires and mount the display on the handle bars. Temp probes are also available.

Bubba

 

[AussieJester]

My guess is a friction drive

I killed quite a few little outrunners in my first testings.

The whole no reduction drive thang gave it away did it John

KiM

 

[johnrobholmes]

My first few tries were friction designs, based on small outrunnners! I even ran one with skirt bearings and had the can directly rubbing the tire. Didn't last long :lol:

 

[briangv99]

I'd highly recommend you go with the throttle control box/current limiter from http://www.evlogix.com. It accepts both pot and hall throttle inputs, provides extra capacitance to protect your controller and will limit current.

 

[veloman]

This may be getting to be too much for my interests. My whole idea was to keep it simple, and easy to put together. I think I'm playing in the wrong field here. My last ebike was so simple. I had a basic Currie 24v scooter motor, a matching controller, matching throttle and my basic SLA batteries. Charging wasn't scary, I could leave it and come back whenever, as it would trickle charge once full.

I guess I need to decide if I am going to accept the tradeoffs between the systems. It just seems overly complicated to use RC parts.

 

[swbluto]

I guess I need to decide if I am going to accept the tradeoffs between the systems. It just seems overly complicated to use RC parts.

Indeed, there's some compromise for the lightest and most powerful. This is true in high-end cycling and many domains.

 

[gwhy!]

This may be getting to be too much for my interests. My whole idea was to keep it simple, and easy to put together. I think I'm playing in the wrong field here. My last ebike was so simple. I had a basic Currie 24v scooter motor, a matching controller, matching throttle and my basic SLA batteries. Charging wasn't scary, I could leave it and come back whenever, as it would trickle charge once full. I guess I need to decide if I am going to accept the tradeoffs between the systems. It just seems overly complicated to use RC parts.

The whole rc thing really isn't as bad as you may think, and believe it or not the parts (motor/controller) were as cheap as the first brushed motor/controller that I was playing with. You just need to be a bit more diy'ish about mounting. You still can run with your sla battery's as I did initially.