OK ... so I am no master wheel builder, half blind and senile but this just looks wrong to me. I have the crazy idea that spokes should be straight from the hub to the rim ... these ain't. I see bends in the middle and at the nipples. I also would call this '2 cross' configuration(one right next to the hub and another cross in the middle). The rim is a cheap single wall, steel rim 86 mm outside width, 80 to 80.5 mm inside width.
Comment, flames, etc... below please.
Spokes that aren't straight, because they aren't tight, are a problem. Spokes that aren't straight, because they cross each other or the hub flange under tension, are not a problem.
If those spokes weren't interlaced at the second crossing (which is customary and beneficial but not really necessary), they would assume straight lines.
1) A slight bend where the spokes cross each other is not a problem and is common. No worries there.
2) The nipples not being collinear to the spoke can be a source of breakage at the last thread.
To fix requires removing the nipple and using a round file to change the angle of the hole in the rim.
3) Ideally the spoke should fill the entire nipple, be flush to the end of the nipple.
Spoke length as shown in the picture creates a situation where the head of nipple is vulnerable to breaking off.
4) Do the spokes "ping" when tapped with a wrench ?
5) One other build tip is to take a drift punch and tap with a small hammer the outer spokes at the hub flange to force a tighter bend.
After doing this check the spoke tension . . . usually after doing this procedure the tension drops and all the nipples will need about a half turn to regain tension.
[ In metalworking, a drift pin, drift pin punch, simply drift, is the name for a tool used for localizing a hammer blow. A drift is smaller in diameter than the hammer face, thus concentrating the force into a smaller area. A drift is also used where the surrounding surfaces need to be protected from the hammer blow. ]
A drift is used where the surrounding surfaces need to be protected from the hammer blow.
Hitting so hard as to bend the flange would indeed be too much force.
i.e. . . . bend the spoke only.
Thing is, long term use will slowly bend the spoke to the correct position anyway, the idea is to accelerate the bending process.
Wheel build for longevity is a practiced skill.
Learning good skills cost many "do overs", mistakes and a few lost races.
Skill : a craft, trade, or job requiring manual dexterity or special training in which a person has competence and experience.
While not as even, effective, or easy as using a special spoke (de)stressing press (Velocity Wheels and DT examples), I use my fingers, as this guy does - on the adjacent pairs and across the hub pairs. I also use an inexpensive tensiometer but am not skilled enough to know the "correct" tension number for particular wheel builds. I instead go for consistency and a tightness comfort level.
