where can i get me one of THESE??? (don't know the name)
- Thread starter emaayan
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powersupply
100 W
Good high temperature epoxy breaks down around 200 degrees.
Most at much lower temperatures.
You can use a strong (hot) soldering iron to "brittle" it away on top of the soldering pads where the halls should go.
Most at much lower temperatures.
You can use a strong (hot) soldering iron to "brittle" it away on top of the soldering pads where the halls should go.
yea, it didn't , it just made it burned more.
is there anything special i should know about the connections? as far as i understand, all that needs to be done is that each hall should be connected to power wires and each one should be connected to one single output wire, and for some reason a 100 nano capacitor should be connected to the blue sensor on the red channel, am i wrong?
is there anything special i should know about the connections? as far as i understand, all that needs to be done is that each hall should be connected to power wires and each one should be connected to one single output wire, and for some reason a 100 nano capacitor should be connected to the blue sensor on the red channel, am i wrong?
dnmun
1 PW
do not inhale the fumes from epoxy which you heat. use a strong fan and work outside.
powersupply
100 W
What type of soldering equipment do you use?
40W should be enough to slowly heat up and push/crumble away the epoxy.
The 100nF capacitor is used to stabilize the power for the halls.
40W should be enough to slowly heat up and push/crumble away the epoxy.
The 100nF capacitor is used to stabilize the power for the halls.
i'm using portasol superpro 125 kit http://www.portasol.com/products_sc_r3.asp?sC_ID=112
is this the expected behavior of the sensor array? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PvH_PHMEQMQ (the difference when bringing the magnet from the back and from the front).
is this the expected behavior of the sensor array? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PvH_PHMEQMQ (the difference when bringing the magnet from the back and from the front).
powersupply
100 W
Wow, that is some torch you've got there!
I suspected this when you wrote it all burned.
You really must use the lowest settings.
Just try it with an electircal 20W to 40W(max) soldering tool.
I suspected this when you wrote it all burned.
You really must use the lowest settings.
Just try it with an electircal 20W to 40W(max) soldering tool.
i give up,
that's why i tried to replace it, cause i can't see any way on earth to remove this thing, and trying to replace it also came up short, as the can keeps rubbing against it, i guess i'll have to wait for a new motor to arrive in a few weeks
that's why i tried to replace it, cause i can't see any way on earth to remove this thing, and trying to replace it also came up short, as the can keeps rubbing against it, i guess i'll have to wait for a new motor to arrive in a few weeks
powersupply
100 W
emaayan, those are clearly burning marks from your torch.
Why don't you listen to the advice and get an electrical soldering gun?
As mentioned, epoxy breaks down at 200C.
It's like shooting birds with cannons.
Who would do that?
Why don't you listen to the advice and get an electrical soldering gun?
As mentioned, epoxy breaks down at 200C.
It's like shooting birds with cannons.
Who would do that?
powersupply
100 W
Those burning marks are from direct fire like from a torch.
I don'y know your soldering torch, thought you can reduce the heat to 40W equivalnet but that clearly seems not possible.
You have several options:
First, get a regular, electric soldering gun with a chisel like tip (not pointed). When pressed onto the surface, the epoxy in contact will break down and you can slowly remove it, like a bulldozer.
Second, use cold to make it brittle. Use cold spray with a fine nozzle and you will get the same results, but must be fast and do it in small steps. The timing factor is what I don't like with cold.
Then there are chemicals, but that is a very nasty thing, sticky and you must use gloves and only do it outside.
Use acetone (as pure as you can get). Educate yourself with its properties before you go that route.
I removed a totally potted unit from its epoxy that way. Used a flat glass container and poured acetone over it and let it sit for a while. The glass container must be covered as acetone evaporates quickly.
Thise MUST be done outside. The epoxy will get soft so that you can slowly shove it/peel it/cut it away.
Dichloromethane is an option too, but that is really scary and dangerous. And though most electronic parts are rated/immune to acetone, they are attacked by Dichloromethane.
Not an issue in your case, just saying.
I don'y know your soldering torch, thought you can reduce the heat to 40W equivalnet but that clearly seems not possible.
You have several options:
First, get a regular, electric soldering gun with a chisel like tip (not pointed). When pressed onto the surface, the epoxy in contact will break down and you can slowly remove it, like a bulldozer.
Second, use cold to make it brittle. Use cold spray with a fine nozzle and you will get the same results, but must be fast and do it in small steps. The timing factor is what I don't like with cold.
Then there are chemicals, but that is a very nasty thing, sticky and you must use gloves and only do it outside.
Use acetone (as pure as you can get). Educate yourself with its properties before you go that route.
I removed a totally potted unit from its epoxy that way. Used a flat glass container and poured acetone over it and let it sit for a while. The glass container must be covered as acetone evaporates quickly.
Thise MUST be done outside. The epoxy will get soft so that you can slowly shove it/peel it/cut it away.
Dichloromethane is an option too, but that is really scary and dangerous. And though most electronic parts are rated/immune to acetone, they are attacked by Dichloromethane.
Not an issue in your case, just saying.
izeman
1 GW
If I understand correctly you just need to replace the hall sensors. So you need the board just for holding the sensors in the right position.
So if you really can't remove the epoxy why not file it off or use sand paper to remove it. Then connect cables directly to the sensors.
Still epoxy is normally quit easy to remove. As said use a soldering iron or a torch. Apply heat for a second and then immediately!! pry it of with a screwdriver.
So if you really can't remove the epoxy why not file it off or use sand paper to remove it. Then connect cables directly to the sensors.
Still epoxy is normally quit easy to remove. As said use a soldering iron or a torch. Apply heat for a second and then immediately!! pry it of with a screwdriver.
so i finally unearthed the circuit using a hot knife, now i'm getting the sense the compared to my creation, the hall sensors should be placed the other way around, just not sure how to call each direction.
when i place a magnet in "front" of the circuit what should happen?
when i place a magnet in "front" of the circuit what should happen?
izeman
1 GW
i still don't understand why you don't reuse the board you just cleaned?? just install new hall sensors check the connectivity and you're done. if one of the solder pathes is broken just add a little wire to close the broken path. it's as simple as that.
if you add 5v power and gnd to the right pins of the hall sensors, and then pass each of them with a magnet the voltage given on the 3rd pin should switch from high/low or vice versa.
if you add 5v power and gnd to the right pins of the hall sensors, and then pass each of them with a magnet the voltage given on the 3rd pin should switch from high/low or vice versa.
cause i wanna use it as a template and not brake it like i did previously with other mock cards, my main problem now is actually fit this crap inside the motor,
but i'm starting to question if i should really get into all of this instead really waiting for another, cause other then the sensors i have a can problem,
the one on the right is the original from the motor i'm trying to fix but as you can see it's fractured, now that thing doesn't budge, at all, hammering down, doesn't effect either, which leads me to believe that it might have been like that from the start . what if that caused the motor to work slower, now i could try to use the can on the left, but i have to move the bearing from the right can to the left which also seems rather hard. but what if this entire motor is faulty, i don't really know. the can itself is not exactly identical either so i'm not sure what side effects that might incur either.
but i'm starting to question if i should really get into all of this instead really waiting for another, cause other then the sensors i have a can problem,
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