Which Battery from BMSBattery for Q100H?? (Project Complete)

[athflying]

Initial impressions. Shipping took a little longer than I expected. I guess because they laced the motor in to a wheel it takes longer. Was about a full month before the parts were at my doorstep.

I am nicely surprised by the initial quality of everything. Wiring seems solid and beefier then I suspected. Decent connectors and just nice fit and finish. Haven't actually powered anything up just yet, so who knows...but looks good. ZERO instructions...not a single piece of paper to go by. I believe they do offer a wiring diagram online, but that's it.

As I mentioned, wheel is way off center and included a pic. I was expecting issues with the wheel, so not disappointed but wish wasn't something I had to deal with.

Here are some pics of where I am so far. First thing was to unbox everything. Sorry, but didn't have time to find a photo hosting site and upload. (Baby due any minute and trying to squeeze this in).
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7GpdwkGOknBX3VQVVo1ZmJ4c1U/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7GpdwkGOknBR29MdW5wZG8xZXc/view?usp=sharing

Got the tire mounted and on the forks. You can clearly see how offest the wheel/tire is from centerline.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7GpdwkGOknBTE5vZXU0b3NocTQ/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7GpdwkGOknBU1lwMXRqWHd1Yjg/view?usp=sharing

Wired motor to battery.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7GpdwkGOknBTlQ3c0V3ZVRKWWM/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7GpdwkGOknBa3JGRWQ1TmlXREU/view?usp=sharing

Only have an hour here and there. Hopefully finish over the weekend, but no idea how long it will take me to straighten that wheel out or I should say get it aligned. Rest seems fairly straight forward.

 

[fourbanger]

That wheel is badly off center. Sorry to see that.

Keep us in the loop.

 

[motomech]

I think all the Q100 wheels come that way and "dishing" the wheel is no big deal, I can do it in a half an hour.
Take the tire off and start to move the rim over. The principle to keep in mind is that to "draw" the rim in one direction, the opposite side must have the tension lessened. That is true "side to side"and up and down.
Once you get it close by ëye ball", brace a Magic Marker against the fork so the tip only touches the side of the rim at the high spots when you spin the wheel..
Since the rim is black, put some masking tape around the rim to adjust the up and down. Remember, to pull down a high spot, the spokes 180 deg. across the wheel must be loosened slightly(both sides).
Instead of a Magic Marker, some guys put Zip-Ties on the fork as guides.
The spokes need not be "squeeky tight", but only firmly tight.
Check again a couple times after the first several rides.

 

[athflying]

Everything is wired and works. I haven't jumped in to the settings for the LCD3 yet and I didn't realize I need a crank extractor to install the PAS, so that isn't on just yet. The twist throttle and HBWS work though and the display powers up with no error codes.

Currently cleaning up the wiring and figuring out how to keep the front derailleur in a fixed position with the selector gone. I also need to adjust the front wheel and snug it up. Will try and get some pics later.

Questions about wiring, at the connectors...any special precautions or are the ones supplied fairly watertight?? They fit very snug, but just want to be sure. I wrapped them in some braided loom, but don't love the way it looks and if needed prevents me from checking those connections. I am thinking about leaving them exposed but wasn't sure if that is a good idea or not. May put a touch of dielectric grease in there just to be safe.

 

[athflying]

Took the loom back some. Still not 100% thrilled with it, but can't think of any other way to hide wiring so just live with it for now.

This is how I originally had it.....entire length encased in braided loom.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7GpdwkGOknBYU84NHNXWW5qZ0E/view?usp=sharing

Cut the loom back so now the connectors are exposed. For some reason looks cleaner to me even though more is exposed.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7GpdwkGOknBV09Wdm9pUFhONnM/view?usp=sharing

After securing everything, verified all is still working.

 

[athflying]

Today I was able to adjust the wheel which was much simpler than anticipated. I programmed the S-LCD3 and went for a test ride. I was very pleasantly surprised by the whole experience.

I don't have a PAS installed yet, so just using a half twist throttle for the time being. With a quick full twist, the power ramps up smoothly. I got to an indicated 26 mph but I didn't verify that with a GPS....certainly felt like I was cruising. The brake cutoff worked perfectly and the cruise feature worked as well....all in all everything seemed to be working correctly. It was a lot of fun zipping up and down the road. I am letting the battery fully charge now and then going to run some errands for a true test ride.

A couple quick questions.

BATTERY -it has a push button power switch. Does it ever "auto-off"??? If I walk away and forget to turn it off does it stay on?? I know the display shuts down after a little bit, but wasn't sure about the battery. If it stays "energized" how much does it drain?? I work 10 hour shifts, so rather not come out to a dead battery.

SPOKES - I thought I remember it was a good idea to NOT snug them up to tight as the wheel and spokes are on the low end of quality. My rear wheel that came on the bike, the spokes are very, very tight with little to no give. I loosened and tightened one just to get a feel and it was very snug. After truing the wheel, I have no loose spokes, but they definitely aren't nearly as taught as the factory spokes. When I first rode out of my driveway, they creaked and there was a pop or two, but after that the wheel was silent. My commute is about 17 miles roundtrip, so plan on re-checking after every ride and after 3-4 trips will true the wheel again.

LCD3 - If I find the speed is way off, is there a way to calibrate it. I put my wheel size in, but it just gives you the option of 700c with no account for different tire sizes.

Here are some pics after the test ride.

Centered wheel (the forks are at an angle relative to the camera, so looks a little off)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7GpdwkGOknBdWh3YjhqWXpJVTQ/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7GpdwkGOknBVzk3Y2VYOVRMeG8/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7GpdwkGOknBNzZzX0FxWUNEZVU/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7GpdwkGOknBRVBLUGEwTGFLOFk/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7GpdwkGOknBenZKdmI5M1RZcms/view?usp=sharing

 

[motomech]

When the display turns off, there is no current passing though the controller, just a very small signal current coming to it. It will not drain your battery.
Wheel size is the only way to adj. the speedo. It could be that the speed sensor is not working(the sensor needs to be very close to the magnet) and the display is reading the motor commutation for speed. But if that is the case, the display will shut down after about 10 min.
It is difficult to explain how much tension the spokes need, comparing to the original wheel is not very valid. Start by making the tension for all spokes the same by striking them with a wrench and noting the tone.

 

[athflying]

Speed is pretty accurate. Compared to GPS it was within .5-1 mph up to 27 mph. The speed goes to zero with no throttle... I believe i read somewhere that is the case with no external sensor. Not sure if it should keep reading with a Q100h and LCD3 or not.

I did a quick spoke check with your method and I have at least 5-6 different notes playing. Ran out of time today, will tackle that tomorrow.

 

[d8veh]

With the LCD off, consumption is down to microamps, so it's no problem to leave the battery on.

I have a question about the speed display. My understanding is that it uses a motor hall sensor to get the speed signal. Does the speed go to zero when free-wheeling?

 

[athflying]

Yes it does. When I am not using the throttle, the speed slowly drops to zero.

 

[d8veh]

You can possibly change that if the white wire from the motor is connected in to the controller. If you want to check, open the controller to see if the white wire from the motor connector is soldered to the pcb. If it is, you can use any wheel-speed sensor with the signal wire connected to the white one. You can cut the speed sensor off the cheapest cycle computer and use that with one wire to the white one and the other to any 5v (might be ground- try both).

 

[puregsr]

I'm interested in this build.
Does everything just pretty much plug and play including the PAS, hard to tell from the pictures.

Connectors seem different from the standard cheap sm connectors for brake, throttle, and PAS from the site, would I need to cut and solder the connectors if I want other options like the 12 pole PAS and a different throttle from BMS?