Who has bought EM3EV's bicycle frames and how do you like it

I find the behaviour here of Artur disgusting. The only person's credibility he is hurting is his own.

And the fact he keeps coming back to ruin someone else's thread is disgusting.

Paul has given much back to the community. Artur is just a greedy kid who takes.

Credibility is damaged now.




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Some individuals think they can elevate themselves by lowering someone else; doesn't work that way.
 
When I was choosing a frame it was between Vector and Enduro Frame, I went for the Enduro Frame due to people complaining about the swing arm on the Vector but I see that Enduro users where very happy and it was cheaper. After seeing the side panel test videos for Vector Vs Enduro and seeing threats how Paul at em3ev support is First Class I went for the Enduro from em3ev knowing there be great support when I need it.

When I got my Enduro Frame there was no way I could put on the swing arm as it was to tight, left me thinking is it bent inn to much. I figured it out within 5min (no bending or paint stripping) you need to bring the swing arm in down in a angle and presto perfect, its tight and hard getting it out without the reverse action. If you bending the metal or taking paint off your not putting it in right from the start. Everything lined up for me perfectly.

I can not fault it solid frame so far. Packing I would give it 10/10 well protected frame from shipping damage.

I DO NOT regret buying the Enduro Frame for me it’s the best decision and purchase I have made and I got it within 7days could have had it within 5days as DHL had miss placed it so I had to phone DHL as the tracking was stuck at the same location after clearing customs.

Will post a picture of my Enduro bike shortly, New recently added on Mudguards, Seat, Infineon Controller (from Paul) and Key Switch.
 
chunder123 said:
LSBW said:
Received my frame yesterday from EM3EV. Early birthday present :)
Overall, very impressed, quality, packaging, attention to detail, etc.
Except for one thing: one of pivots, which connects swing arm to the frame is slightly bent in, and now won't fit in.
I've tried filing off paint on connecting surface, but it didn't do much.
Anyone else had this problem, and how did you fix it?
Thanks in advance!

I had a problem with the swing arm on my frame the pivot holes did not line up the swing arm straight with the frame bearing but when tightening up the swing arm pivot hole nut area it bened them into place. i'm still not sure if was machined l

There are probably better and more productive ways I could apend my time, than answering loaded questions from a fellow vendor/supplier, but anyway.

Firstly, here is my response to the reasonable points made by chunder.

chunder123 said:
I had a problem with the swing arm on my frame the pivot holes did not line up the swing arm straight with the frame bearing but when tightening up the swing arm pivot hole nut area it bened them into place. i'm still not sure if was machined like this deliberately and desinged to bend into place.. i also found a problem with the torque arm plates when pinch clamp bolts were tightened to prevent motor axle slipping out they bended by 0.8mm rendering the motor axle unable to slide through. only way i could get them off was sliding sideways.

Regarding the swing arm fitment onto the frame. I'll need to take a picture to explain it, but basically the metal is fairly thick sheet metal at this point on the swingarm. It can be bent a little, but when the axle is bolted into place, then it should all align so the swingarm is in-line with the frame. The arrangement does result in a robust structure once the axle is fitted IMPO but I'm happy to hear and act upon any constructive criticism, if a genyine concern regarding the design is demonstated. By all means send me an email with some pictures, or post them here if you prefer. If anything isn't as it should be, I'll investigate and of course we'll arrange replacement parts if something isn't right.

Regarding the torque plates. I think i know what you mean, but I'm not 100% sure. A picure would help. Normally, you'd want to loosen the bolts which secures the torque plates to the swingarm, before fitting the motor, and then tighten the torque plates to the swingarm after the axle is in place. Again, if something isn't right, we'll arrange replacement parts, or even push the factory modify it if the problem is inherent in the design or due to an error.

I'm guessing you must have purchased from EM3ev if you are posting here? If not, we can definitely also help but we may need payment to cover our costs.

I'll try to take a picture to show a couple of things when i get a chance. There are some small details on the frame that people may feel are not quite right when they first see them, but IMPO they are ok from a structural and safety standpoint. Would I change some details on the frame, if it was mine? Yes, sure i would, but I've not seen anything or received any feedback that gives me any concerns for the safety of the frame. Is it perfect in every way? No, there are some cosmetic details that could/should be improved, but i don't consider them to be deal breakers and at the price point I think it's a nice product and offers good value. It is a shame that some small details aren't improved, as frankly it wouldn't be that difficult to do so (mainly getting the outline of the side covers right, so there is a more even panel gap and all fixing holes are perfectly centred).

Is the EEB the finest example of it's type? no it's not, and i never claimed it is, nor do i have any very string allegiances to it. I am friendly with Evel and intend to offer their new frame when it ready (which looks absolutely nothing like the Vector, Stealth, Qulbix or anything else I'm currently aware of). I'm not entirely comfortable that the EEB is so similar to the Vector frame, but so far I understand, there are various differences and it was not actually developed by the Chinese factory, the Chinese factory just organise the production and it was Evel that productionised the frame in China. The various parts of the EEB frame are farmed out to other companies that are specialists in that area. Which is quite common in China at least. The "factory" actually just puts the bits together and should ensure it's right before it's shipped.

The guy I dealt with at Leilli seems quite reasonable and receptive, with reasonable English (Jason). There are some Chinese companies that are terrible to deal, with a bad attitude, but Leilli isn't 1 of them IMPO. I'm now getting my stock through Evel, not Leilli. We don't actually sell a huge amount of these frames, it is still quite a niche market.

As the quantity pricing for the EEB Frames is out there, so if anyone wants to buy in moderate dealer quantities, we'll happily match the factory pricing and support them (was doing that anyway, but we're rarely requested to do so, I guess people feel they have some insider info, when they find it on Alibaba), assuming wire transfer, as PayPal is quite expensive. We already offer some discounting when frame packages are purchased together and I'm working on making some parts cheaper by buying in larger quantities. I also feel it is a little unfair to the dealers in the local markets, if i drop the reatail price very low.

I had always intended to do a better job of offering frame packages, but frankly, selling the EEB frame and associated parts is only a small part of what we do. Building packs, working on new designs for those packs and the day to running of the company keeps me very busy already.

To my friend Artur, I regret to say we don't currently have liability insurance and I haven't broached the matter yet. Maybe someone could tell me how that would work on products like this frame, that don't generally meet any international standards? We hope to setup a US office and warehousing late this year, or early next year, so such things may be required at that time and we'll look into it, along with the other million and 1 things we need to do, when the time comes. It's not an ideal situation, but what can you do, other than do your best, only sell products you are confident of and be receptive if there is any indications through customer feedback, that there might be a sadety critical issue. If everyone only ever waited until they had every base covered, the World would be a pretty boring place and there would be no place for a 10,000W bicycle!

Until such time as we're in a position to cover every base, I'll continue doing what I've always tried to do and that is to make sure we see all our customers right and fix their problems, quickly with as little fuss as possible, not take chances with anything safety related and be on the lookout for anything that gives an inkling there could be cause for concern. When we get 1 of those very hard to please customers (anyone in retail sales will know about those) you sometimes just have to take a hit unfortunately. If money can fix a problem, it's not a major problem and I'd rather lose a few bucks than give someone ammunition to fire back at me, on a forum or whatever. This is why we don't have a long warranty statement, which can read like a list of excuses and ways to get out of actually just solving the problem.

However, the vast majority of people are reasonable if treated reasonably and you demonstrate some effort to fix the problem and don't leave them out of pocket whilst doing so. Treat people with respect and they'll generally return the favour.

Anyway, I hope things can be kept civil, from here on in, so we can all focus on the important stuff. If you don't like a competitor, or competing product, do things the right way, makes something better, or cheaper, or with a nice widget attached. Blatantly attacking something you don't like (based on reasons not backed up by facts), or anyone associated with it, may be effective at putting seeds of doubt in the buyers mind, but it can easily back-fire and do more to hurt and damage the attacker, than the attacked.
 
Artur said:
I'm out.. good luck with with everything. I'm tired. Let's ppl buy whatever and wherever they want.

Good luck to you too Artur and I hope to see you developing some cool new stuff and develop your business. Business is tiring, so many things to consider....

I get tired too :)
 
A few people have mentioned issues with the plastic frame covering coming loose. There are essentially two areas where this occurs: along the top panel of the triangle (where one might mount a charging port a/o keyswitch), and at the rear panel of the triangle (where the upper shock mount is). Here's what I've done to remedy this. Paul - something along these lines would no doubt be an easy addition at the factory or elsewhere.

I drilled 4 holes. And used 4 of these:screws1.jpg

Two here:Top panel reinforcement.jpg

And two here:Rear panel reinforcement.jpg

These are self tapping sheet metal screws. Drill the holes just slightly smaller than the thread diameter. You don't want to have to crank these in too hard and risk snapping off a screw head. Combined with the existing foam rubber stripping, the screws really help to make a nice water resistant seal. A bonus is a more reinforced surface on the top panel where charging port a/o keyswitches may be installed. An additional small o-ring under the screw head seals the screw hole. I intend to replace the screws soon with black ones with a slightly larger head diameter. Working great for now though. Hope this helps someone.
 
It makes me sad that Paul has to waste his time writing very long posts because some clueless fool gets on here and writes a pile of bull sh..
Take comfort Paul, the vast majority of us know and respect you and your service.
 
And the fact that the other clown claims to be the most original stealth copy - and everyone else copied his copy. He's also copying the Flx Beta at the moment to debase another good design, fricken disgusting.

Profit is a reward for adding value or taking risk.

Recently bragging on facebook he's sold 300 copies of the first frame, and hasn't given a single dollar or idea back to the community - not even a dollar to Icecube's lipo research fund.
Everything that is wrong with venture capitalists and "Entrepreneurs".
 
Hello everyone,

I've been following this thread for a while and am quite happy with my purchases :)

I've found em3ev to be very helpful. Paul patiently answered all my questions and concerns thus far. I'm trying to put together my EEB frame, DNM USD 8 fork, and Midi-e. A picture should be included. Sadly I just found out my DNM fork is defective so I'm checking with Paul for advice. I'll update and show off my build a bit as I work through it. Can't wait :)



Thanks,
Al
 
Loysius Nice One Keep us updated about your build. :D ...Can I ask how was your DNM fork defective?
 
mybike said:
Loysius Nice One Keep us updated about your build. :D ...Can I ask how was your DNM fork defective?

Here are some pictures of it. http://postimg.org/gallery/jvgyxy9g/

One of the arms of the fork is at a different height than the other. The higher arm is also at an odd angle that makes putting on the brace incredibly difficult. There was a strong ping noise when I was able to jerk the top brace off the first time for installation but I just was not capable of getting things back together even with help. I would have to put rope around the stems and use a lever to spin the rope and tighten the arms together to be able to put the top brace back on. I'd do this if it was just crooked but in the process we noticed one arm is like 8.5mm(.33inches) higher than the other.

If anyone has some advice then please share :)

Thanks,
Al
 
Huh, well that's interesting Al!
If I may offer my 2c from the little bit I've played with a marz888?

It's highly unlikely either crown or leg was manufactured out of wack, or got bent in shipping. . .
I would: take the packaging off of lowers and axle, loosen and remove axle, and loosen or fully remove fasteners from the lower clamp.

Wala, you should be able to get the legs oriented in the two crowns on the bike, 'finger tighten' clamping hardware, then tighten steering/headtube hardware, then install wheel, then arrange height of legs for final fit and fully tighten everything.

Afterwards, you should be able to remove and reinstall the wheel without touching anything else, and with minimal finessing for axle realignment. My marz takes a little finessing, and it's a '$$$' fork.
 
nutspecial said:
It's highly unlikely either crown or leg was manufactured out of wack, or got bent in shipping. . .
I would: take the packaging off of lowers and axle, loosen and remove axle, and loosen or fully remove fasteners from the lower clamp

+1 Was thinking the exact same thing. Hope that's the case!
 
Quokka said:
As a consumer with a qulbix, eeb and now a stealth on the way I think the best test of any product is what happens if you need any help after the innitial purchase. We have seen in this thread Paul has really gone out of his way to make sure people are happy with their purchase and fixes any issues they have and acts with integrity, which costs money that needs to recouped. If only all the vendors out there acted like that we would be in a much better place. I find it sad when we go through the various threads to see people who get new frames with bent swing arms, or with damaged motors who are then left high and dry. But this is the purpose for forums like this so we can get real insight into various products and vendors behaviours.
nutspecial said:
Huh, well that's interesting Al!
If I may offer my 2c from the little bit I've played with a marz888?

It's highly unlikely either crown or leg was manufactured out of wack, or got bent in shipping. . .
I would: take the packaging off of lowers and axle, loosen and remove axle, and loosen or fully remove fasteners from the lower clamp.

Wala, you should be able to get the legs oriented in the two crowns on the bike, 'finger tighten' clamping hardware, then tighten steering/headtube hardware, then install wheel, then arrange height of legs for final fit and fully tighten everything.

Afterwards, you should be able to remove and reinstall the wheel without touching anything else, and with minimal finessing for axle realignment. My marz takes a little finessing, and it's a '$$$' fork.

Sadly the lower brace and top brace is already fully loosened. One shock is just simply more extended than the other. I've compressed them both individually but one just extends farther. Its kind of bizarre. :|

Thanks for the ideas.

Sincerely,
Al
 
nutspecial said:
Plently of people here with double crown forks to hopefully confirm further, but mine are a little different (<1/4") on the marzocci too.

Just compress the longer one a little more when doing the above steps, to equal them out in the clamps. To help aid initial install, turn down any shock settings.

Thanks I'll do this then. I was just worried at first that the product may have been a little defective and hiding the problem behind some jerry rigging would sprout issues or subpar performance down the road. If it isn't a big deal at all then I'll just do this. I'll try to pull apart the axle and what not like you previously suggested and put the whole thing back together and see if I can work out the odd tube that sticks out at a different angle. If not is it also okay to rope the odd angled shock and use a lever to twist it back together enough to fit the clamps/crowns over them? Are forks usually this finicky? lol jeeze :p

Thanks,
Al
 
loysius said:
Hello everyone,

I've been following this thread for a while and am quite happy with my purchases :)

I've found em3ev to be very helpful. Paul patiently answered all my questions and concerns thus far. I'm trying to put together my EEB frame, DNM USD 8 fork, and Midi-e. A picture should be included. Sadly I just found out my DNM fork is defective so I'm checking with Paul for advice. I'll update and show off my build a bit as I work through it. Can't wait :)



Thanks,
Al

Looks very similar to the bike I'm putting together and now it seems I'll have to opt. for that new black fork over the old gold one. I'm assuming those stickers are removable or optional? What's the rest of your build looking like? Good luck.
 
Zerk said:
loysius said:
Hello everyone,

I've been following this thread for a while and am quite happy with my purchases :)

I've found em3ev to be very helpful. Paul patiently answered all my questions and concerns thus far. I'm trying to put together my EEB frame, DNM USD 8 fork, and Midi-e. A picture should be included. Sadly I just found out my DNM fork is defective so I'm checking with Paul for advice. I'll update and show off my build a bit as I work through it. Can't wait :)



Thanks,
Al

Looks very similar to the bike I'm putting together and now it seems I'll have to opt. for that new black fork over the old gold one. I'm assuming those stickers are removable or optional? What's the rest of your build looking like? Good luck.

I got the fork installed now on my bike, taking off the axle and putting it back on fixed the alignment and with some finagling I got the braces all aligned correctly. Sadly I can tell I will have to finagle every time I remove and add the front wheel since one of the shocks will have to be squashed to make the fit but I don't imagine it will affect performance much unless this is the effect of a larger issue like something inside the shock not being tightly assembled or something.

My biggest worry right now is the wheel build. I've been having a very very tough time deciding if I want 17" or 19" moped rims. Right now I have my Cromotor held up at some facility in NY I think. It's been there for over 5 days. Quite annoyed. I need to take it to our local motorcycle shop and see if they can thread it and my dual brake hub. I'll have to see if I can fit a 7sp freewheel onto it as well.

My second worry that isn't due for an answer yet is what battery I'm going to be using. I really wanted to go with a nice 72v 28ah+ battery. I wish there was a guide for Vectorebike's battery and how to install it to the Adaptto bms + installing the charging coil and filling out the adaptto menus. It should fit fine inside the EEB frame right? Short of that I'm thinking getting a battery with an integrated bms would be much simpler but I can't find any good answers. Was considering running two 72v 11ah batteries in parallel from lunacycle.

p.s. Yeah I'm so happy the new fork is black and white. I was planning on making my build black and red so it helps. Hopefully the red peripherals won't attract unwanted extra attention from the police haha. East coast usa btw so I should be fine.

https://postimg.org/image/todz6lobn/
 
loysius said:
nutspecial said:
Plently of people here with double crown forks to hopefully confirm further, but mine are a little different (<1/4") on the marzocci too.

Just compress the longer one a little more when doing the above steps, to equal them out in the clamps. To help aid initial install, turn down any shock settings.

Thanks I'll do this then. I was just worried at first that the product may have been a little defective and hiding the problem behind some jerry rigging would sprout issues or subpar performance down the road. If it isn't a big deal at all then I'll just do this. I'll try to pull apart the axle and what not like you previously suggested and put the whole thing back together and see if I can work out the odd tube that sticks out at a different angle. If not is it also okay to rope the odd angled shock and use a lever to twist it back together enough to fit the clamps/crowns over them? Are forks usually this finicky? lol jeeze :p

Thanks,
Al

For other people's info, we went through this today via email. There is nothing wrong with fork as far as i can tell, everything that was thought to be a problem, is actually just how all these DNM USD8 forks are. Yes 1 fork is slightly longer than the other, once the axle is removed and it does make it a little tricky to fit the axle, but actually it is normal and I have no doubt the fork will be fine once it is all bolted up.

I'll get back to you tomorrow, via email, regarding the battery. We've built plenty of 20 and 21s packs, normally including a bms :)
 
Loysius, no way will you fit a cro and 7 speed. Too wide. You will have to go a singlespeed freewheel. And even then you will be playing a game of millimeters.
And yes, my usd8's are out of whack untill you have the axle boted in.
 
What would the chances of fitting a BBS-HD crank drive to this be?, looks like the bottom bracket is part of the swingarm?.

Just had a look and these are unbelievable value really for the frame.

Is it UK supplied if bought from em3ev?.

A beespoke fit battery pack would do very well as an option to this frame.
 
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