Wich controller do you recomend? 48V 1500W

Pablo_1985

100 W
Joined
Feb 19, 2009
Messages
175
Hi guys, i have my conhismotor kit, and the controller is a piece of shit, it is the fifth time that it goes to the hell, i´m tired of fixing it... So i just want a fire proof one, with regen (by the way my controller died while i was using regen (again, and now i have lifepo4, it brakes so hard that it hardly blocked the wheell :O)). Another thing is that i have a 12 big mosfets wich could it be a good idea to use them in my new controller....so i´m listening guys!

My kit is a 1000W one, but i would like to power it up a little, like 1500W or so...something enough to notice a big change but not enough to change to many things in my bike... So i´m listening guys! How much could it be?

Regards
 
Lyens is one of the guys now supplying controllers built for beefy wattage. I haven't used mine much (12 fet) but it sure seems like a keeper so far.
 
I sent him a message let´s see....

I dont´want too wattage because i don´t want to burn my motor, or melts the cables... i just will put torque arms, nothing more, the most important thing is that i want it to be bombs proof!...so maybe 12 fets are too much, i´m waiting for his respond and see how much power could he offer me :). I will use my bike every day in Spain to go to work (hot, and trips about 15km with little hill climbing, with part of offroad)...1000W is good, but now that i change i prefer to improve a little, if i don´t, it will seem like i haven´t change anything! that´s why i´m thinking about just 1500W :).

I want regen but a regen that could be activate and deactivate, because sometimes is a pain in the ass having regen, or like in my case the firt thing i do is ride a downhill so i don´t want to kill my batteries and neither blow up the controller.

Regards!
 
I think i will buy 9 fet controller (from Lyen), 12 fets give a power that i would never use...tooo much! instead 9 fet handle 30 amps perfectly so it should work ok with mine :)

Thanks a lot!
 
Yeah now i just have to wait it to arrive!.... At least i could go to work without anything else in mind but enjoying the way! :)

Thanks Dogman!
 
LYEN CONTROLLER IS frocking GREAT. :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:
 
Hi Pablo
I think you should really say what you feel about your new LYEN Controller and not hold back :lol:
Am I right in thinking that this is the second controller you have had on your conhismotor and your hassels started with the regen to sla?
How much of a improvment has the new controller made to the stock motor? as there are a few of us now running chm 1000w kits
and any steps foward would be good
 
Now i´m at work, i didn´t forget about it i will do all you ask, but i thought at least i had to give you a conclusion hahaha
 
Ok, everything was great, the sun was bright, the birds was singing happy for seeing a vehicle that doesn´t frock up the air that we breathe, the cars look at me wondering why this bike goes as fast as their cars, people in bikes look to my legs trying to figure out how big they are...then i get down for going in to a stairs, there is a ramp for the bike i acelerate a little and then.. nookwojgfwoleihlaskvoi, WTF THE NUT WAS SOFT THE AXLE HAS GOING OUT AND IT HAS BREAK ALL THE CABLE TO THE MOTOR

Go home, dissasemble the motor, fix the problem, try to turn it on, it doesn´t work, or controller (PLEASE NOOOOO), or hall are dead....so please let me say in my mother tongue so admin doesn´t ban me..... (understand it, i need it)

ME CAGO EN LA PUTA HOSTIA DE OROS, JODER, JODER, JODER, JODER, PUTA HOSTIA DE LA BICI COPÓN BENDITO, ME CAGO EN TODOS SUS MUERTOS, TODO ME SALE MAL TODO SE JODE, NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO, PORQUÉ??????????, YO SÓLO QUIERO UNA PUTA BICI NORMAL QUE NO SE ROMPAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA, SI DIOS EXISTE CASI ME ODIA TANTO COMO YO A ÉL.....PFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF

So i will have to do testing with the osciloscope...cool, i have no time, so i am going to spent my "no-time" fixing for twentieth time my frocking bike. I love it.....(feel the irony?)

PS: a phase and one from the hall shorted out, the controller seems good anything has blown out... please i wish they are hall
 
I'm really sorry to hear that you had another problem with your ebike, Pablo - I feel for you! But at least it wasn't the controller itself that blew up this time... axle bolts becoming loose is a pretty common problem, specially if using hard regen. I very often use two torque arms on powerfull ebikes to avoid this, but it is *very* important to check your motor's nuts for loosening - specially after installation! I find that I have to tighten them a few times on the first rides before they settle in and stay tight afterwards. In fact I even bring a 3/4" wrench with me during my first trips on any new ebike!

I translated your spanish text above and do understand your frustration, but if you look at it another way you could consider yourself lucky. At least your wheel didn't pop off your bike while you were on it doing 30kph! Hospitals suck!

If you still have your good IR3006 fets you'll be able to replace the dead FETs (and remember to check your batt- and batt+ resistance to each phase before powering back up!).

Good luck Pablo!
 
Thanks ZapPat, i will see this afternoon with my osciloscope how many things went off...i´m tired man, i am working a lot and i have no time! :cry:
 
Pablo_1985 said:
Thanks ZapPat, i will see this afternoon with my osciloscope how many things went off...i´m tired man, i am working a lot and i have no time! :cry:
You'd better not power up the controller if you think there's dead FETs in there - try the basic multimeter phase resistance tests first while the controller is unpowered. There are already some very descriptive posts here about how to do this.

Ciao!
Pat
 
To prevent a spin away the phase wires+ thin wires.. it is good troque arm required. i got a my free troque arm from a buddy. he gave me as a gift. it is protection if the nuts lost it tighten, or lose it way.. the wheel will not spin the wiring and made damage. i have several build troque arm, they all are normal steel is not good enough. My troque arm is from ebike.ca , verion3 , troque arm. it is stainless steel very difficult to make, must order from them.

kentlim
 

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KentLim,

Please don't use an improperly installed torque arm in a lecture about torque arms. Regen braking requires something thicker than storebought, and even Justin says clamping type is required with regen. This is my solution, 9/16" of steel on each side:

red rocket clamping dropouts 1.JPG


Axle nuts are just for show on this build...absolutely unnecessary. :mrgreen:

red rocket clamping dropouts 2.JPG
 
hi john,
your troque arm is priceless. a troque arm is required for every hub motor.my solution is simpler for a reguler ebike runner for 51km/h.my plug and play troque stil works fine. it certainly safer then just it 2 nuts itself. John, yr build is impressive!!
Cheers

kentlim
 
It seems i could not test anything until the weekend... i will thell you then guys
 
kentlim26 said:
hi john,
your troque arm is priceless. a troque arm is required for every hub motor.my solution is simpler for a reguler ebike runner for 51km/h.my plug and play troque stil works fine. it certainly safer then just it 2 nuts itself. John, yr build is impressive!!
Cheers

kentlim

Thanks. I haven't spent any time to pretty them up, but that's not important to me. I spun the axle of my first hub in the first 10 feet of the first ride, and that was with dual inadequate torque arms. I will never allow that to happen again, because rewiring with maximum size phase wires is something I wouldn't wish on anyone. :mrgreen:
 
hi john,

when i got this hub motor, i had quickly build one troque arm. I feel not safe at all, the riding makes me very uncomfortable. I have to check every time on my nuts? Was it Loosen ? i dare not to run fast, until my friend order the troque arms from ebike.ca the cutting for version3 troque arm, **(very clean Cut!.) i will never able to cut like those out from a stainless steel, I am also unable to build like your troque arm , impossible.. It needs the Machine and welding+ GOOD skills too. in here, many guys i have read their thread, they had burst 3 TIMES on their phases wires+ 5thin wires. so it some thing i got build a good troque arm or order a good troque arm. Ebike ca. selling the troque arm still can work with speed below 60km/h. I bet it is sure strong and sure works well. Ebike.ca , they cut out is a master piece.

for those who needs 80km/h~ 100km/h and above, those F1 ebikers will need something like yours " The Extreme TRoque arms" . :D Sadly, there are many people have lack of machining+ welding machine, they have to buy some Good troque arm or build one if he is enough confident to do. i have no objection.

cheers!
kentlim
 
Ok, today i tested it. Hall are ok (i saw the signal with my oscilloscope), and so their power source, what is not ok is the controller :(. when i power up the controller there is one phase wich is giving all the voltage, the other ones don´t. I check the circuit and i can see that if it give high voltage it is because there are at least 2 broken fets, in fact, it is the yellow phase, so they are the two wich are in the edge of the board...but i don´t understand one thing i tryied to see the signal from the other 2 phases, i trottle (without the motor), and make the wheel spin, but no signal in any phase.... so? are all the mosfets broken or the controller stop working just if a few blow down?

By the way the voltage of my headway battery pack wich has 16 elements is up to 75 volts without any load...normal!?

Regards!

EDIT: By the way i checked every mosfet, and there are just this two wich are shorted out.
 
hi Pablo,

i have just order one new controller, to do a test on cyclone motor/ conhismotor. it should be here today or tomorrow. The price is great USD39.00.. 60v 1800watts/ 30amp controller/ 18 mosfets 4130. i have order them last week ago, but it took one week to test from the factory, he have send me on Tuesday morning, so maybe today i will get it.

there is another controller 48v 2000watts/ 40amper is the same price USD39.00 . The 18 mostfets 4130 also !!
I think the price is GREAT too !! that is why , i don't mind to buy and test it out for a sharing.

http://www.chatparts.com/
--

The communication with the dealer was Good. i have test it out and see how this new controller performing. my standard controller from conhismotor is doing great and perform well. Just that , i like to know which controller can also work for other controller.

cheers!
kentlim
 
Ok, please forgive this:


By the way the voltage of my headway battery pack wich has 16 elements is up to 75 volts without any load...normal!?

i had my voltmeter on low battery so it didn´t work ok :) this make a lot more sense!.

Lyen i´m waiting for your response guy! but i will not respond until monday, i´m going on holidays.

Regards!
 
Hi Pablo,

You've got yourself the answer. Please replace the shorted MOSFET transistors. :)

Regards,
Lyen

Pablo_1985 said:
Ok, today i tested it. Hall are ok (i saw the signal with my oscilloscope), and so their power source, what is not ok is the controller :(. when i power up the controller there is one phase wich is giving all the voltage, the other ones don´t. I check the circuit and i can see that if it give high voltage it is because there are at least 2 broken fets, in fact, it is the yellow phase, so they are the two wich are in the edge of the board...but i don´t understand one thing i tryied to see the signal from the other 2 phases, i trottle (without the motor), and make the wheel spin, but no signal in any phase.... so? are all the mosfets broken or the controller stop working just if a few blow down?

By the way the voltage of my headway battery pack wich has 16 elements is up to 75 volts without any load...normal!?

Regards!

EDIT: By the way i checked every mosfet, and there are just this two wich are shorted out.
 
thanks Lyen!
 
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