Winter or Rain: Waterproofing Controller and Throttle

[broloch]

When it rains will the throttle be affecting on a typical brushless setup? How can you protect your throttle?

I have sprayed my controller PCB with silicone spray. How many layers do I need? 1? 2? 3? 4?
Also, should I have a drain hole in my controller, to allow for any water inside to drain out?

 

[mwkeefer]

bro,

There are 2 schools of thought with regard to water proofing - winterizing:

1.) Try to seal everything possible and make the whole thing WATERPROOF.
2.) Make the unit water-resistant since you know water is going to get in there.

It seems your doing a bit of both (silicone + drain hole)?

Some things to think about:

1.) If water gets into your controller to the top side of the PCB or bottom and makes it's way past your silicone spray (Praying you didn't spray the FETs?) - just short 2 phase wires of your motor together and try to spin the wheel... add explosion and smoke and fire to that and imagine it happening while you ride?

Endo face plant of fire!

That said...

Personally I've been riding through all the rain (literally I go out on purpose in the rain), the snow (lots of snow slamming) and have even gone so far as to pour buckets of water (with the battery fused and safely isolated away) on the controller and throttle with ZERO failure or issue.

I ensure there are neoprene/rubber gaskets on the ends of the controller.
If the controller feeds wires out in an individual isolator (the kind that fit a big hole and pass a single wire at a time), I remove that ASAP and cover the opening (epoxy and ABS plastic) and then I bundle the loom back into a round configuration and drill the ABS to accept the loom and a grommet. The grommet I use hot glue around first then feed the wires then (the magic part)... I create a mold using plastic tube (you can get close to the exact diameter of the gromet, it's best) which I coat with blistex/chapstick style wax (yep, not kidding)... then I fill it with hot glue to about 1/3" protrusion.

I can take this controller and submerge it in water and nothing will blow (yep I tried it) - not 3meters or anything but a 5gallon bucket and the bathtub full... so 12" depth tested... plenty for snow or rain riding.

Even with these measures - I have the controller mounted below my handlebar bag (bottom of bag reinforced with thin plywood) which gives it plenty of air (and rain) exposure but not nearly as much as some locations + with the waterproofing I don't worry about it shorting (I never did silicone the controller or anything like drip loops).

I do have a fender which prevents upsplash!

The wiring loom passes through the bottom left side of the bar bag through a normal gromet (no silicone so I wouldn't want to submerge - that would be my weak link) and the throttle passes through on the right at the bottom of the bag (coming up from underneath - I guess that is = to a drip loop) through a tiny grommet along with the eBrake line, an external GPS sensor line, etc...). Here all my wireing is located, my eagletree and the interface for each sensor I have (not very neatly wired or mounted as it changes often if not daily).

The batteries are usually in a rear trunk bag.

Both bags have been sprayed with 2 coats of weather proofing (3m type stuff I guess, what you would use on tennis shoes or hiking boots) and it works wonders... i've never gotten water or moisture in either of my bags - no matter how bad the rain.

I am lazy as crap so my low current high voltage turn on switch and eagle tree display aren't water proof (by any means)... so, I have them mounted on the bars with HD velcro in a Radio Shack project box... when it's bad weather, I pull them off and stash em in the bar bag. Problem solved.

Oh... I forgot - back fill all your molex and anderson plugs with Hot Glue or Silicon... they leak bad stock and must be properly encased to resist water exposure.

That about covers it - again... I've never had an issue, I run with a front hub and I've tested my controller under water (for over an hour) with no failure.

Hope it helps!

-Mike

 

[lifepo4ever]

also I bougth this product http://www.corrosionfree.com/automotive.htm


its :
USES

Electrical
Electric motors, starters, generators, alternators, switches, terminals, rheostats, circuit panels, ignition systems, light sockets and any electrical point of contact.

Mechanical
Pre-assembled metal parts, winches, pulleys, bearings, shafts, bushings, hinges, cables, aluminum wheels, steel rims steel or aluminum castings and anything that moves.

Appearance / Detailing
Doors, trunk lids, engine hoods, lapped seams and joints, nuts, bolts, chrome and aluminum accessories, and basically anything requiring protection from the elements.

BENEFITS


* Terminates rust and corrosion in all metals
* Clean, clear, DRIPFREE - no sticky residue
* Dissolves and neutralizes existing rust and corrosion
* Penetrates the start of new corrosion
* Protects paint from blistering at edge of lapped seams
* Stops electrolysis between dissimilar metals
* Protects UnderBody including brake and fuel lines
* Penetrates deeply and lubricates
* Repels salt water and moisture
* Will not wash off with water
* Heavy Duty gel formula for extended protection

METHOD OF APPLICATION


* Formulated to be applied under high pressure to hidden areas using the CorFREE applicating system, or brushed / wiped on to exposed panels
* Can be applied to wet areas
* Apply every 18 months or annually as required

SPECIFICATIONS


* A proprietary blend of lubricants, moisture displacers, corrosion neutralizers and inhibitors
* Solvent-free - Odor-free - Non Toxic - Non Conductive - Di-electric 40,000 volts
* Non Flammable as a liquid - Low Fire Hazard - High Flashpoint
* Not a controlled substance - not subject to TCSA - not controlled by WHMIS
* Specific Gravity .86 - Boiling Point 260 C - Negligible solubility in water
* Non Carcinogenic - Light Green Color

 

[rkosiorek]

backfilling the connectors is a good idea.

dielectric grease on the connection side is the best idea. good blob of that crap will keep the water out, but you can clean it off by wiping.

i guess that the dielectric grease idea is just too simple to work huh? must be a more complex/involved method to do this. but hey everybody needs a few finicky detail work chores to improve their manual dexterity and keep the mind active.

the only time that i have had a significant issue with water in the throttle connector was when i still had one of those throttles with the built in 3-led display. the high battery voltage (48V) was enough to bridge the damp connection. otherwise water is usually a poor enough conductor that crossover at 5V unlikely. but with the dielectric grease displacing the water - no more problem. also no more oxidation of the contacts.

silicone might cause it's own kind of problem. most cheapo silicones release either water and/or acetic acid as part of the curing process. that could start a rust problem ot it's very own. epoxy or hotmelt are safer bets.

rick

i usually ride 12months a year in Canada. in all kinds of weather. any one need samples of road salt? now there is some corrisive crap that really improves the conduction of water.

 

[grindz145]

Conformal coating is your friend. Dip the whole board in several times for best results

 

[rkosiorek]

dipping connectors into conformal coating? wouldn't that sorta defeat the idea of a connection with an insulating coating covering the contacts?

but for boards and stuff it is a good idea. these days i normally use spray stuff instead of the dips. works out cheaper and easier. i've tried the crap from MGC chemicals and it is crap. board needs to be supper clean for that stuff, it is too stiff and it cracks too easily. i prefer the stuff from Tech Spray cat#2102-12SR. it is silicone based. has good temp resistance and is flexible enough to coat over wires where they are soldered to the board.

rick

 

[fechter]

Some throttles will sort of short out if they get too wet inside. Where the cable enters the throttle body, there is often a small plate held on with a screw that can be removed to gain access to the wire connections inside. The actual hall sensor is waterproof, but the 3 wires going into it are often exposed and can be bridged by a drop of water, causing the motor to run with the throttle at zero. If you can seal the area between the hall sensor and the 3 wires, the whole thing should be submergible. I used a little fingernail polish to soak the area. Runny epoxy would be good too.

 

[The Mighty Volt]

My Cammy_CC 700w hub broke down today.

I dont know why, but I suspect it may have had to do with the water getting in via the power cable which enters the hub interior from the outside.

I found a rust-stain there.

When I opened the hub up, I found no sign of major water damage.

Basically, the hub gave me the impression that it had seized, power is fine, battery is fine, lights work , but the hub does not respond to the throttle, at all.

I found some water in the connection between the controller and the throttle, blew it out, no difference.

Any ideas? Thanks.

 

[lifepo4ever]

look at my video there useful tips : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSf2McRAETc

I made this video today not 2008 I have to erase that from the camera good one for 20$