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Yescom 24V 500W kit not working

rahulgupta32

10 mW
Joined
Oct 6, 2012
Messages
20
Hi all,

I just bought a yescom 24v 500w kit from yescom off ebay. The kit has been installed and i am using two 12v 12ah batteries in series. They are SLA batteries. I figuered if they suit me well i can upgrade to lifepo4 batteries in the future. I only have a 2 mile trip to work.

After i hooked up everything and connected the batteries, the indicator on the throttle shows all three lights which means that the batteries are fully charged.
However, when i press the on switch and turn the throttle, the motor does not move at all. it does not even look like that the motor is getting any power.

Does anyone know how to fix this?

Thanks in advance
 
I assume you mean the red button on the throttle. If you pushed it in, then you turned the controller off, Push it again. Out is the normal operation position. If that's not the problem then double check all the other connections. Still can't find the problem. you'll need a vom.
 
Thanks for the reply. I have tried both the red button in and out. it does not work either way.

I have created this video. please check this out and see if you can figure out the problem.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zb00ttG5Qzg

I have tried with the brake lever connector not connected also.
 
Hi All,

I have done some more testing with my fluke. I have made sure that the motor wires are connected. Buzzed out both ends on hall effect connector for the motor.
same for the key switch and the throttle response connector. They all seem to be connected. I also tested that i am getting a voltage range from 1V-4V when i engage the throttle, if the battery is connected.

I guess the problem now could be the controller. I have found out two schematics from the internet though that do not seem to jive.
The key switch wires yellow and brown go to different ports on the controller. i am attaching the schematics i have.

I really need some help. do not know whats wrong.

thanks
 

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Great video. Problem is, everything looks to be connected right. Once you get it going, take the controller out of the bag and mount in the open air. It will overheat in the bag. Next step would be to double check all the connectors to make sure each wire is actually making contact in the connectors. After that, next thing would be to check the phase and hall wires (YBG) for shorts or opens and proper operation of the halls. Here's how to test hall sensor circuit. Must have power to system. Voltage should go from low to high as you *slowly* turn the wheel about an inch at a time.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=efYFOHnXh0E
 
Hi,

Thanks for your reply. I looked at the video and have tested all three of my sensors. They seem to go from 0-5V with one inch increments, so the hall sensors are fine. Also i again made sure that all connectors are making contact.

Do not know what the problem might be. Did you look at the schematics to see if that could be the problem?

Thanks
 
Unfortunately there is nothing written on the controller apart from 24V500W scribbled with a pencil on it.

The Battery is fully charged and is providing a voltage of 25.71V.
 
you said you have 5V on the throttle and the hall sensor plug. so the controller is working.

there are two power wires, red wires, one large, one small that have to be connected to the controller. the small wire carries the controller circuit current and the large red wire carries the current to the mosfets on the output.

is the big red wire connected to the battery?
 
Hi,

Yes the big red wire is connected to the battery. That is where the controller is getting the power from. I do not know what other red wire you refer to. There is only two ports not plugged in my controller.
One has a red and black wire and that port is providing the 24v for the led light which i do not have or connected.

the other is a port that can be connected to an optional pas system.

It seems like the throttle is getting 5v and hall effect sensors are getting power. the throttled led's to show status of battery are working. there is no power for the motor though. i have tried to measure ac to the motor wires but it is not there.
 
the controller does not get power through the big red wire. the big red wire delivers current to the output mosfets.

there should only be 3 wires to the throttle from the controller. why do they have all those other wires?

can you disconnect the two pairs of wires with plugs in that schematic that go to the throttle and leave the 3 wire throttle connector attached, then measure the 5V on the hall sensor plug?
 
Hi,

one of the connectors provide the 24v and ground to the controller for battery level indicator. the other connector is for the key on/off switch. then there is the 3 pin for the throttle itself.
If i disconnect the other two connectors. the throttle still behave the same. i get the variable voltage output.
 
Even after disconnecting the two connectors from the throttle i get power to the hall effect sensor.
 
When i disconnect the red/black conn from the throttle it does NOT have the led lit but power to the hall effect sensor.
 
ok, the red wire back up to the throttle comes from the big red wire inside the controller. i had expected that the switch button would turn on and off the power to the controller, and the led would turn off when the button was switched.

i expected the power to return to the controller for use by the circuits though the grey wire. that is how i now interpret the diagrams. if you do not have a way for current to enter into the controller circuit, the 5V on the hall sensor plug and the 5V on the throttle plug would not be present.
 
yeah. i have diagnosed everything i could think of. if anyone has more ideas, i will be happy to try.
 
Is this the kit you have?
http://www.yescomusa.com/Brushless_Electric_Bicycle_Engine-_24v_500w_Front_Wheel_Hub_Motor_Kit.html
All of th system is DC. There is no AC voltage anywhere in it. The phase wires to the motor are also DC current.
Some of the kits that come with a light also have the ignition switch built into the light, but it sounds like you got one that doesn't have that feature and the power button is the one in the thumb throttle. Out is on, and pushed in is off on those.
These controllers do not have a small red ignition wire. That function is handled with the button in the throttle.
Coming off the throttle, there's 2 smaller connectors. One has green and gray wires and is a 2 pin connector. That one goes to the red/black 2 pin connector of controller. The other one is a 3 pin connector with only 2 wires (and pins) in it. One is brown or black and the other is yellow. That goes to one of the two matching connectors with 3 wires (red, green, black). Doesn't matter which one because they go to same place in controller. One is for throttle and one is for pas.
Just reviewed your video again, and again everything looks to be connected correctly. At this point, if it's not a bad connection somewhere, I'd guess you have a bad controller. I'd email yescomusa with a link to your video, and make sure you tell them you tried it with the red throttle button out as you didn't in the video. And it will never work with the red button in.
 
you need to think about why you are getting 5V on the throttle and hall sensors when the controller circuit current is disconnected. i just cannot believe it.

open up the controller and get it out in the open so we can follow the wires inside the controller to see if something is wrong inside. i would actually prefer to see with a photo the 5V hall power or throttle reading on the voltmeter when that grey wire is disconnected from the throttle. i don't see any way for the current to enter the controller circuit besides that grey wire.
 
To check the ignition button, put a meter across the 2 pins and make sure it goes open and closed when pushed in and out.
 
he can just measure the voltage on the place on the throttle where the grey wire connects. the small red wire is from the power lead inside the controller and carries the voltage to the switch. when the switch is on the led should ignite and the grey wire should have the full battery voltage. i just do not believe the measurements now that he has measured voltage on the hall sensor plug without the controller powered up.
 
wesnewell,

the link you posted is the one i have bought. i too believe it is the controller. I have sent yescom an email and am waiting for their response. I have tried buzzing the on off switch with a vom and it buzzes out in on and not in off.

Thanks
 
Some power left in the caps when he unplugs it mabye?

If it's not usual loose wire in the connector somewhere, or not enough battery voltage I can't say what it is. Sure that controller is 24v? a 36v one wouldn't work because of low voltage cutoff with a 24v battery.
 
yes i have made sure the on/off switch works. i again tested the hall sensor pins and am getting 5v. it does not matter if the switch is open or closed. i always get the 5v on the sensor.

there seems to be something funny going inside the controller.
 
as my video shows. the controller has 24v500w scribbled on it. nothing else. i do not know if it is actually 24v.
 
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