Ellou said:
What issue are people having with the pedal assist sensor?
Without a pic of the issue you're having there, I don't know exactly what you're going to need to do. But there are a cuple possibilities.
Some BB's and cranks have more space on one side than the other, so you mgiht be able to put the sensor and magnet ring on the other side from where you have it now. I think I had to do that with my "1000w" Fusin kit on the first bike frame I tested it on.
But...I gotta say that if the PAS of your kit works anything like the Fusin one, you're better off not even using it at all, and just use the throttle. The Fusin one wasn't safe to use in traffic, primarily because the delay before it would kick in or shut off was so long that any sudden change in traffic conditions could happen faster than the engage or cutoff could happen. I would have had to hold the mechanical brakes against the motor power in some cases if it werent' for the ebrake cutoff, (and even that took too much time to react, but not as much as the PAS cutoff!).
I have not yet fixed my Cycle Analyst (CA) v3 so I can use it with the THUN BB sensor, but if I ever get that done, it would make a much better PAS than what the Fusin had, or that of most of the PAS controllers people have reported about on ES and/or had issues with.
How would I make the bike single speed?
I answered that for someone in another thread the day before yesterday:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=72646&p=1097126#p1097126
How can I tell what controller I have. They all look the same and the one I recieved seems bigger then others.
If you open it up it'll have markings on it you can search ES for to see if someone's talked about it before. But there are at least thousands, if not tens of thousands or more, of different models out there, so there's no guarantee anyone has ever seen yours before.
I would like to be able to change some settings after I get bored with the stock config. Im fine with flashing new firmwares using ftdi and atmel connectors. I want to also be able to use regen and maybe increase volts and hopefully not have to buy a new controller. Not right away anyway.
I know of no generic controllers that could be flashed with new firmware, because no firmware is avaialble for any of them.
Some of them do let you change some of the settings in them, using their proprietary software (or in some cases the generic versions, or things like Anpaza's XPD here on ES).
You could try using whatever software you find on ES or the web to try changing settings on yours, but you can brick it if it responds and takes the settings but they dont' apply to it.
(unfortunately very very few controllers let you read anything from them, so you can't tell what the settings were before you chagned them). Most won't even respond/take the settings if the software wasnt' meant for them and/or they're not programmable, so it could be safe enough to try--no guarantees, though.
Regarding ebrake levers, there's no need to use them. You can take the switches out of them and mount them somewhere on your existing levers, with some bits of plastic or metal to hold them or engage them, etc., or somewhere on the brake arms with a bit of DIY, or else you can buy the HWBS hidden wire brake sensor that installs on your brake cables in place of a few inches of the cable housing, or do one of the other varied DIY ebrake sensors here on ES or elsewhere.
Or you can go without, if you don't need regen braking and have mechanical brakes good enough to lockup the motor wheel even while also going at your top speed.
