runamok.tech
Hubsinks won't keep the motor cool unless you add Statorade to move the heat from the stator to the motor case. At 2000W, statorade alone will keep the motor cool. Don't count on those LG cells outputting 60A; with 4P, they may output around 40A.
What LG cells? All they specified was a "72v 19.2 uppbattery". A search finds that UPP makes them with various cells, including "Chinese4800mAh", so we don't know which ones they're actualy going to use.
www.uppbattery.com
Yeah sorry about that. I'm planning on using it for general commuting mostly on roads and bike paths, but want more power than the previous 1500w 48v e-bike I had. I usually found myself only using around 800 watts when just riding around.To know whether any of it would "work", we'd need to know exactly which parts are being used (links to each one) so we can see their individual specifications, and then we'd need to know how the system will be used, under what conditions, terrain, etc., to guesstimate if they could do the job you need them to do.
Without pretty complete details on everything, we can't tell you what will and won't "work".
Please see this page for an example of this kind of problem:
Ask Aaron - The Hamburger is Bad
Frustrations in answering questions about combat robots.
this one:
Which implies zero warranty and zero customer service.
Thanks for the advice. Company is supposed to be good, except for the fact that they sell faulty controllers and that they dropship.
If you were only using 800w (about half of what you already have), then more power won't help you, and is a waste of money to upgrade to, because you won't be using it.
They are used to keep a motor cool when it is continuously used at higher power levels than it is capable of handling without overheating. They also don't do as much without ferrofluid / statorade, as they only cool the rotor and magnets. The stator where the heat is generated still has an airgap insulating it from the magnets, and thus from the heatsinks.I usually ride on small bike paths, which I didn’t want to use the full speed on. The only problem was that I couldn’t ride on roads properly either as my bike could go just over the speed limit, and it felt really unsafe because if something went wrong I’d have no wiggle room, and anyone could overtake me. I’m hoping that having a slightly bigger motor would give me more freedom to ride on roads without being too expensive. When going back home from friends houses I often used the full 1500w as there were usually few cars on the road. I like the idea of upgrading the motor in the future, which is why I want a 72v battery and a 2000w motor, since I don’t have the money for anything bigger right now. Regarding the terrain, there are a few hills around me, but none that really need more power than I already had. With the hubsink I talked about, I had heard from a friend that I could use the 2000w motor to push around 3000w if I had a better controller, while keeping it relatively safe.If you were only using 800w (about half of what you already have), then more power won't help you, and is a waste of money to upgrade to, because you won't be using it.
What you need is to define what "more power" means to you: Do you need higher acceleration? Faster speed? What specifcally are you looking for that you don't have now, under what specific riding conditions, terrain, wind, etc.?
Knowing what job you want the system to do for you, and the conditions it must happen under, we can help you find parts that will do that for you.
Regarding hubsinks: If you are not even using the power you have now, those are a waste of money for you.
IIRC some of the motors on the ebikes.ca simulator are thermally modelled with and without statorade and hubsinks, so you could see what happens there in each situation under your specific riding conditions and terrain and wind, etc.
Alright thank you. With the build I had before I did about 66kmph when the battery was fully charged. The speed limits of the roads I want to ride are 60kmph so I want the extra power to be that little bit quicker just for safetyI recommend you play around with the ebikes.ca motor simulator. It will help you see which parts of the system you would need to change and to what to achieve what you need.
For instance, if you don't have a fast-enough-wind motor or a high enough voltage to cause the motor you do have to spin at the speed you want, it doesn't matter if you have ten thousand watts available, it won't make you go any faster.
Each motor has a certain RPM for a given voltage (kV), so knowing that you can guesstimate how fast it will go for a given battery voltage.
It takes a certain amount of power to go a certain speed under specific conditions. 1500w is enough to go pretty fast (probably at least 30mph on flat ground with no headwind) if the system has the voltage and/or motor kV to do it.
Since you don't state the speed you are already able to go (as we have no way of knowing what the speed limit is where you are riding), or the speed you need to go, we can't help you figure out what you actually need to do that, so the simulator is your best bet to figure that out.
Regarding 3kw of power, unless you need to climb steep hills, pull heavy cargo trailers, etc., or go perhaps 45mph on flat ground, you don't need it and it just makes the bike heavier and more expensive.
For instance, if you only need to go, say, 35mph, it only takes around 1500w, which your system can already do, so you can either change your motor to one with a kV high enough to do that with your existing battery and controller, or change your battery to one high enough voltage to spin the existing motor that fast, and probalby the controller to one that can handle that high a voltage.
If you need faster than that just for short bursts, you can almost certainly still do the same things, as most motors can take short term loads higher than their "ratings". If you need faster speed (and thus higher power) for longer, those hubsinks and statorade would help you with that, if using your existing motor.
If you just want the power to have the power, that's up to you....but my guess is you don't need it.
Others are giving good advice about electronics and mechanical parts. I just want to reflect back that your current build does 66kph/41mph on a new battery, and that you'd like to go faster. It's certainly possible to get everything truckin' down the road more quickly -- but if it were me on that bike, on the roads that I live on, I'd be wondering if it's safe to go faster.
The only one with a 60A BMS I could find had the LG cells.What LG cells? All they specified was a "72v 19.2 uppbattery". A search finds that UPP makes them with various cells, including "Chinese4800mAh", so we don't know which ones they're actualy going to use.
one random link for example:
U004-1 72V 19.2AH BMS40A 21700 Chinese4800mah cells Triangle Ebike Battery fit for 0-2200W Motor with 2A charger/USA STOCK/Fast delivery
This Item ships from United States , Can ship to most US States , don't ship to Hawaii , Alaska . Free tax , no custom value , and fast shipping with US Fedex .
So...to give useful help we still need to know much more, as previously noted.
That's why i wait for questioners to provide details; it takes too much time for me to figure out what they mean or have if they don't, so I don't then have time to help them with their actual problem.
