BBSHD Voltage Problem Firmware Update & Instructions

[Johnny Digital]

If you switch from current to speed , your throttle acts like a throttle and has response almost immediately. It also acts like a throttle vs off & on switch.

I know when in current, my throttle turns half way before getting chain slap and jerk.

With speed setting in place , it acts like a motor bike . Smooth power and acceleration gains.

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

 

[mike_k]

Yes Johnny, Speed setting is more smooth, but doesn't solve the throttle/PAS issue on most BBSHD motors.
If anyone is looking for exact settings to make it even smoother - see my previous posts.

 

[Johnny Digital]

Yes the speed setting is for Smoothness. The firmware is for the pas/throttle fix.

Together you have harmony. As is with my Ludacrous V1 & v2.

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[AZeBikeGuy]

I can't stand the speed mode with the throttle, doesn't feel tight at all

I've had mine in current mode pretty much forever and it's lusciously smooth - for me the key was setting the start current low

YMMV

 

[jtrappett]

Yes Johnny, Speed setting is more smooth, but doesn't solve the throttle/PAS issue on most BBSHD motors.
If anyone is looking for exact settings to make it even smoother - see my previous posts.

After you flashed with "CRR10E4830E105027.1_(latest)_190927.bin" were you able to alter the settings using the configuration tool? If so, could you post your configuration file?

 

[mike_k]

yes, no problem, just as before the firmware update. My current settings file attached (change .txt to .el)

 

[AZeBikeGuy]

yes, no problem, just as before the firmware update. My current settings file attached (change .txt to .el)

The start current being low is what makes it clean at low speeds

I'm still far more a fan of current mode over speed mode but I understand that it makes the throttle respond instantly and can dump you where in speed mode it responds a lot slower and avoids that instant over-power if you were to hit full throttle at a stop or low speed in low gear...

 

[Johnny Digital]

yes, no problem, just as before the firmware update. My current settings file attached (change .txt to .el)

The start current being low is what makes it clean at low speeds

I'm still far more a fan of current mode over speed mode but I understand that it makes the throttle respond instantly and can dump you where in speed mode it responds a lot slower and avoids that instant over-power if you were to hit full throttle at a stop or low speed in low gear...

That's why when running at high powers 3kw+ I find the speed setting to be best. You don't get the chain tensioning slap when feathering throttle, like you do with current (even with current set to 1%)

Current might be better for PAS..? However,
Speed is definitely better for throttle response and feathering capability. Feels more like an actual motorcycle.

I'll post a video later showing the difference between the 2 when running hight powers.

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

 

[AZeBikeGuy]

That's why when running at high powers 3kw+ I find the speed setting to be best. You don't get the chain tensioning slap when feathering throttle, like you do with current (even with current set to 1%)

Current might be better for PAS..? However,
Speed is definitely better for throttle response and feathering capability. Feels more like an actual motorcycle.

I'll post a video later showing the difference between the 2 when running hight powers.

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

Interesting. I'm running mine stock (~1500W) but when I tried speed it just didn't feel like a moto at all to me and seemed a lot less predictable to my wrist muscle memory so to speak.

There's no doubt current mode can dump you on your butt if you grab WOT at low speeds/low gears but then again so will a moto as long as motor RPM enough where it's getting into the torque part of the curve. I had several motos that wouldn't do that until you had about 2-3KRPM but my R11GS would do it right off idle.

Maybe if I'm fiddling with the settings I'll try speed again but I've been running current for >10000km at this point so might not like it just because it's not what I'm super used to at this point..

 

[mike_k]

Maybe if I'm fiddling with the settings I'll try speed again but I've been running current for >10000km at this point so might not like it just because it's not what I'm super used to at this point..

Any failures within the motor itself or other parts of your bike so far? Just curious what to expect from mine

I have a bit over 1100km so far and the motor is going super strong (after 200km i disassembled it completely, cleaned thoroughly the original grease and applied Mobilith SHC-100 everywhere- a lot of it - just because there was almost no grease inside from the factory)

But:
- the rear aluminum freehub has failed a couple of times (pawls) so I replaced it (a complete wheel) with novatec NT-D032SB, steel construction, no problems so far

- front wheel bearings were getting loose every 100 km or so (very rough terrain, forests), so i had to replace the complete wheel (NT-D041SB) with sealed type bearings, just as NT-D032SB, no problems so far

- my back was hurting a bit, so I got SUNTOUR SP12-NCX - works extremely well I'm very happy with it now

- a set of strong front and rear lights, because the ones included by Bafang were a joke at night

- rear derailleur (a piece of wood got between spokes and derailleur, completely destroyed it) - so I got a RD-M592 - shifts very well, but it happened again - this time I was able to disassemble it and straighten the cage, but I'm wondering how to prevent this from happening in the future - let me know if any of you have some suggestions here

 

[AZeBikeGuy]

Motor's been really solid - tore it apart for clean out, inspect and lube at somewhere around 1500-2000km but it was actually pretty well lubed from factory with zero issues. I've inspected the secondary twice since then since that's a very quick and easy job and only very mild darkening of the lube (expected from the tiny inevitable metal particles) and would only bother going deeper if the secondary gave pause for concern since it takes the most load and is metal on metal.

I had the PAS-throttle override issue and solved it with a circuit I embedded in the controller long before the firmware version fixes were out in the wild

Initially I had some issues with the 11t aluminum cog on the cassette but they were silly cheap (~$8?) and easy to replace and once I got the parameter tune good and went to steel cogs that's long been in the past

I'm running an long-cage M8000 derailleur and it's a sweet piece of kit - no worries there. I recently went to a sunrace steel cog 11-51t cassette and it's doing super well - had a 11-46t before. Before that was running aluminum cog M8000 cassette (both 11-42t original and 11-46t) and much prefer the sunrace gear steps on their 11-46t and 11-51t (they're different) - the shimano only put a 46t on the 11-42t without changing any of the others and steel cogs are the way to go IMO. The M8000 had no problem taking on the 51t although it's only rated for 46t.

I've bent the hanger but bent it back and all is well. I ride off-road plenty and the wide-ratio cassettes are the way to go out here. Narrow-wide rings should go without saying. Presently a 42t but thinking about a 44t since I have two 130bcd adapters and swapping takes two minutes and the slight difference should be able to be accommodated by the derailleur without worries with the chain length. The drive line is pretty much outstanding regardless. I got 5000km on the last chain and it only had ~1.5mm total stretch when replaced, cassette was still good too but I found a deal on that 11-51t so put it on then.

The rear hub is Novatec D202SB - been flawless too, never gave it any thought really.. front is D201SB and same flawless nature..

Out here the dust is much more an issue than wet so very different animal (abrasion vs. corrosion) but everything is still good... some day I should do a full teardown, clean and relube on everything but doubt I'll do that before getting another bike unless forced..

 

[Delphis1982]

I flashed the firmware "CRR10E4830E105027.1_(latest)_190927.bin" from https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=100064&start=100#p1591048Posting.
Apart the benefits from removing the PAS/Throttle Error and the Voltagesupport for a full charged 52V Battery, there is another one:
Usually the BSSHD has the "feature" (for me it's a bug), if the voltage goes below 46V, the power will be reduced to about 500W.
Below 45V there are only 300W and below 44V there is nearly no power left although the battery ist still at 40% charge.
After the firmware flash I noticed, that the motor can now draw the full amps until LVC.
I was at 43V and the motor could pull about 1,2KW from the battery, the voltage dropped to 41,5V.
All worked fine until the voltage reached 41,0V. At 41,0V the configured LVC kicks in and cut off the motor. The lights still work.
After nearly 3h the voltage was at 41,7V with lights on at night.
But if I would accelerate now, the voltage would drop below 41,0V and the motor would immediately cut off.
My BMS cut off at 38,8V, so I have a reserve of nearly 3h of lights, although the motor doesn't work anymore because of low voltage.
But I don't recommend to go lower than 43V for daily use. I just did it once for testing.

 

[Tomblarom]

I have a BBS02 from Luna with the pas/throttle issue.

What's the firmware that will resolve the throttle / PAS issue on a BBS02?

There's a guide from biktrix for 48v to 52v firmware, but I don't know whether this fixes this pas/throttle issue. See: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=113107

 

[Patchogue]

I flashed the firmware "CRR10E4830E105027.1_(latest)_190927.bin" from https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=100064&start=100#p1591048Posting.
Apart the benefits from removing the PAS/Throttle Error and the Voltagesupport for a full charged 52V Battery, there is another one:
Usually the BSSHD has the "feature" (for me it's a bug), if the voltage goes below 46V, the power will be reduced to about 500W.
Below 45V there are only 300W and below 44V there is nearly no power left although the battery ist still at 40% charge.
After the firmware flash I noticed, that the motor can now draw the full amps until LVC.
I was at 43V and the motor could pull about 1,2KW from the battery, the voltage dropped to 41,5V.
All worked fine until the voltage reached 41,0V. At 41,0V the configured LVC kicks in and cut off the motor. The lights still work.
After nearly 3h the voltage was at 41,7V with lights on at night.
But if I would accelerate now, the voltage would drop below 41,0V and the motor would immediately cut off.
My BMS cut off at 38,8V, so I have a reserve of nearly 3h of lights, although the motor doesn't work anymore because of low voltage.
But I don't recommend to go lower than 43V for daily use. I just did it once for testing.

DSC_0939.JPG

I'm having the same issue of when my battery is at 46V the SOC reading is down to 7% (flat) and it doesn't allow me to use the rest of the battery. I upgraded to the file that you used from Tomblarom, the flashing was completed with success, the system runs but no luck. I set the Min Volt Cut down to 41V or 40V or 38V and nothing. It's all the same.

Anyone having this issues? Is there a way for the bafang controller to learn the full battery capacity? I'm using a 58.8V 21Ah battery. No errors or anything. It just doesn't seem to allow me to use the battery at any voltage below 46V / 45V.

I used a spare battery with 58.8V 16Ah and it was exactly the same.

Any help it would be much appreciated.

Cheers

 

[Delphis1982]

Does the whole system completely shut down below that voltage?
Then maybe it's the BMS, it ist cutting off the power below that.
I had never heard, that after flashing that file, the battery doesn't give the needed current BELOW 46-48V.
Or ist the battery faulty or not strong enough?
I have a 14S6P, it is 52V with 20Ah an I can draw a maximum of 30A of the battery pack.
I forced that until LVC at 41,0V. The the motor shuts down, but the rest of the system remains ON.

Just a question:
did you set the LVC inside the config tool? AFTER flashing, of course.

 

[unthreadsuns]

I replaced the controller on my 2019-ish BBSHD. Display would turn on, but it was throwing error code 10 and I couldn't get a response from the motor using either input from the pedals or throttle. I re-flashed with "CRR10E4830E105027.1_(latest)_190927.bin". Solved my problem. Interestingly, the throttle response on this new firmware and controller is vastly improved from my old controller even with the same EggRider configuration. My old controller is marked: CR R10E1000.SN.U 1.5 A08F8T5232893. My new controller is marked: CR R10E.1000. SN C571-30-506.

 

[unthreadsuns]

UPDATE: I've solved the throttle issue described below. I just realized that the throttle control uses the value for the specified "Designated Assist" level. In my case, this was set to 9, which is not a level that I've configured to give 30A.

As stated above, I'm now running "CRR10E4830E105027.1_(latest)_190927.bin". I believe I'm having a firmware related throttle issue. I can only get 22A max output at wide open throttle. I'm using an Eggrider and have tweaked the throttle End Voltage from 3.5v to 5v, but I'm still maxing out at 22A in all configurations. Because of this I don't think it's a hardware related throttle issue. I am set up for an overall current limit of 30A. Anyone else having a current limit issue with throttle?

 

[fechter]

If the throttle is set to level 9 and level 9 is programmed for 100%, you should get the full 30A. I don't have any experience with the Eggrider, so not sure how that might change things, but it should be the same as the stock display. If you have the stock display, you might try it just to see if it makes a difference.

 

[Beauie]

Does anyone have access to the 35 amp firmware or is this a myth ?

 

[nimo@free.fr]

Hello everybody,

does anyone have a download link for the latest firmware of the BBSHD ?

the zip file in this link does not work : https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=100064&start=100#p1591048

many thanks in advance

 

[AZeBikeGuy]

Works for me however you do need 7-zip to open it

 

[tomjasz]

Does anyone have access to the 35 amp firmware or is this a myth ?

An external controller or Luna for their aftermarket
controller.

 

[Ranchero]

Latest Firmware for 52V controller with 48Vbattery, for free for you all, i paid
Change extension txt to bin

View attachment CRR10E4824E105028.1_APP.txt

 

[AZeBikeGuy]

Latest Firmware for 52V controller with 48Vbattery, for free for you all, i paid

Appreciated - what do you mean that by 52V controller with 48Vbattery? Does it also work with 52V?

TIA

 

[jtrappett]

Going by gatorsean's post back at https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=100064&start=50#p1473826... which says

I just noticed something interesting in the firmware file names:

They all start with CRR10E which I assume is for the BBSHD products
Next, the string between the E's - 5228 or 4830 seems to correlate with the max voltage/current setpoints. This explains why in my previous post, the 5228 firmware fixes my 07H, but limits my current to 28A. Also explains why I can set 30A but get 07H with the 4830 versions
The next part of the string indicates the BBSHD hardware revision the firmware is compatible with. 105*** in our examples.
Finally, the suffix appears to be a date code with format YYMMDD.

.. it would seem this is for a 48v controller but limited to 24 amps, however the date part of the filename seems to have become jumbled.