First build - Vector light frame, mxus v3 and adaptto

Isn't it a design flaw to have the BB in the rear swingarm? Doesn't this add the rider's weight to the unsprung mass in the rear swingarm? the common eeb/enduro frame, vector frame, and flux alpha frames also have this design "flaw" of the BB in the swingarm rather than on the body of the bike. This design also makes it so that if you use a mid-drive motor attached to the BB, it would be added to the unsprung weight.

After a quick search it seems like the only frames with the BB in the "right" place are the qulbix raptor and the flux beta (edit: and the phasor, and probably more). I don't have one of these ebike frames, nor have i ever ridden one, so take my words with a grain of salt. but i've never seen a mountain bike the the BB in the rear swingarm. am i just nitpicking and it's not really an issue, or is it a major design flaw?
 
Baron said:
Isn't it a design flaw to have the BB in the rear swingarm? Doesn't this add the rider's weight to the unsprung mass in the rear swingarm? the common eeb/enduro frame, vector frame, and flux alpha frames also have this design "flaw" of the BB in the swingarm rather than on the body of the bike. This design also makes it so that if you use a mid-drive motor attached to the BB, it would be added to the unsprung weight.

After a quick search it seems like the only frames with the BB in the "right" place are the qulbix raptor and the flux beta (edit: and the phasor, and probably more). I don't have one of these ebike frames, nor have i ever ridden one, so take my words with a grain of salt. but i've never seen a mountain bike the the BB in the rear swingarm. am i just nitpicking and it's not really an issue, or is it a major design flaw?

I don't think this is a big problem for this frame if you consider that it is three times cheaper compared to my flux beta frame.
Also the BB is very close to the pivot point, We are speaking about centimeters. Of course is not the perfect place to be but I don't
think it affects so much the swing arm.

For someone that wants to build a cheap light slim e bike (at the moment) this is the way to go.
 
I ordered my frame and am gathering the parts, you got me of my scooter, not sure how I feel about that but its on its way.
How do you overcome the crowding on the handlebars for switches, are you running a thumb throttle or a 1/2 twist, I can see operating a full throttle and pedaling any kind of fun.
There are plenty of bike frames that put the bottom bracket floating in the arm so I don't feel it's a valid point other than its just how some people do it.
 
Any pictures on the battery compartment, I'm hoping to build an 18s6p honeycomb but at 115mm wide I can see I'm going to have to glue the cells together in square and that's going to be 108mm wide and I can use the space on top for the BMS. I'm still hoping to find room to squeeze the controller in there, failing that I'll look to modify the seat area, would be able to put some ventilation in that way to. I also have to remove the battery for charging so I want to see how you got your battery to fit.
 
x.l.r.8 said:
Any pictures on the battery compartment, I'm hoping to build an 18s6p honeycomb but at 115mm wide I can see I'm going to have to glue the cells together in square and that's going to be 108mm wide and I can use the space on top for the BMS. I'm still hoping to find room to squeeze the controller in there, failing that I'll look to modify the seat area, would be able to put some ventilation in that way to. I also have to remove the battery for charging so I want to see how you got your battery to fit.

Really I dont want to open up the bike again. Its a very tight fit for me and takes to people to make it fit at the same time. You should be able to do 18s6p if you run controller on the outside. I got the controller on the outside and a 20s6p. Also I would recommend you to make a bike that you can charge directly. Its a pain in the ass to open it up each time you need to charge it.

I am running a domino throttle. I would call it a full throttle. I can send you a picture of my handlebars. They look pretty clean but i havent installed light and horn-bottoms yet.
 
mpmoller said:
x.l.r.8 said:
Any pictures on the battery compartment, I'm hoping to build an 18s6p honeycomb but at 115mm wide I can see I'm going to have to glue the cells together in square and that's going to be 108mm wide and I can use the space on top for the BMS. I'm still hoping to find room to squeeze the controller in there, failing that I'll look to modify the seat area, would be able to put some ventilation in that way to. I also have to remove the battery for charging so I want to see how you got your battery to fit.

Really I dont want to open up the bike again. Its a very tight fit for me and takes to people to make it fit at the same time. You should be able to do 18s6p if you run controller on the outside. I got the controller on the outside and a 20s6p. Also I would recommend you to make a bike that you can charge directly. Its a pain in the ass to open it up each time you need to charge it.

I am running a domino throttle. I would call it a full throttle. I can send you a picture of my handlebars. They look pretty clean but i havent installed light and horn-bottoms yet.

Just a moment, Do you have to remove your battery pack every time you want to charge it ? Haven't you installed a charging port at the front of the frame ?
if not you should do it it's not very difficult.
 
icherouveim said:
mpmoller said:
x.l.r.8 said:
Any pictures on the battery compartment, I'm hoping to build an 18s6p honeycomb but at 115mm wide I can see I'm going to have to glue the cells together in square and that's going to be 108mm wide and I can use the space on top for the BMS. I'm still hoping to find room to squeeze the controller in there, failing that I'll look to modify the seat area, would be able to put some ventilation in that way to. I also have to remove the battery for charging so I want to see how you got your battery to fit.

Really I dont want to open up the bike again. Its a very tight fit for me and takes to people to make it fit at the same time. You should be able to do 18s6p if you run controller on the outside. I got the controller on the outside and a 20s6p. Also I would recommend you to make a bike that you can charge directly. Its a pain in the ass to open it up each time you need to charge it.

I am running a domino throttle. I would call it a full throttle. I can send you a picture of my handlebars. They look pretty clean but i havent installed light and horn-bottoms yet.

Just a moment, Do you have to remove your battery pack every time you want to charge it ? Haven't you installed a charging port at the front of the frame ?
if not you should do it it's not very difficult.

I got a charging port, thank god for that. haha
 
rumme said:
My motor is rated for 3k but I often pump 5k- 5.5k thru it and it handles it fine , but mine has ferro fluid in it. I'm running 72 volts and a lyen controller in sensorless mode, along with tubeless moto tires. This is my 4th ebike and easily my favorite , best performing.

Hi how is the motor mxus 3000 in sensor less mode?
Coggins?

How do you setup lyen controller in this mode (sensorless) ?
Thx
 
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