memy
1 W
j bjork said:
Don't know what the jumper is for.
It has a PAS connector, but i'm not using it.
Has anyone used PAS on these controllers?
Greentime controllers
- Thread starter ian.mich
- Start date
Don't know what the jumper is for.
It has a PAS connector, but i'm not using it.
Has anyone used PAS on these controllers?
nighth_hunter
1 µW
- Joined
- May 20, 2019
- Messages
- 1
Hi friends,
i am new to ebikes. I buyed a bike wich has a Greentime 600W 12fet controller with XCM-K, its similar to X8M06-c. If somebody know, can this time of MCUs be connected to the SW900 LCD?
i am new to ebikes. I buyed a bike wich has a Greentime 600W 12fet controller with XCM-K, its similar to X8M06-c. If somebody know, can this time of MCUs be connected to the SW900 LCD?
dragon-fly
100 µW
- Joined
- Aug 24, 2019
- Messages
- 8
crossbreak said:
i just received a 18fet board and i have this 2 second soft start. is it possible to fix it to 0 second?
also, can anyone confirm that i need to bridge DS and X for regen braking? or is it EABS? or are those different?
Thanks
I ordered this controller 'GREENTIME 9 Mosfet 36V/48V 800W/1000W 35Amax' and I have 2 questions
1.What type of speedometer can it support? It has 1 "speed meter" wire
2.According to the seller, sensorless motors are limited to 100% speed (out of 80/100/110% speed levels), is there a way to bypass it the 100% lmit without installing a hall sensor?
1.What type of speedometer can it support? It has 1 "speed meter" wire
2.According to the seller, sensorless motors are limited to 100% speed (out of 80/100/110% speed levels), is there a way to bypass it the 100% lmit without installing a hall sensor?
kgff said:
you'd have to read the thread to see about other conttrollers by greentime, but all of the controlelrs iv'e ever opened up that had a "speed" wire used one of the motor phases for that--so the signal is probably full battery voltage, modulated as a phase signal.
if so, you would need a speedometer that handles full battery voltage range signal input. i think the ones like qsmotor sells are like that; iirc msjfoto1956 has a thread about setting one of those up. typically these also have other display functions if you need those (depends on the individual device what those might be).
if you just need a speedometer you might as well use a regular old bicycle speedometer; it's simpler.
probably not. you'd have to test it to find out if that is actually a limitation first.
dragon-fly
100 µW
- Joined
- Aug 24, 2019
- Messages
- 8
On my controller speed wire is indeed just basically full pack voltage Pwm modulated based on a phase.
As for sensor less past 100% I don't think you can get the 110% option without the sensors simply because the motor would have no way of knowing at what phase angle its at. I could be wrong, maybe it's fancy enough to use bemf. Like the other guy said, it would need to be tested.
Basically the 110% option uses phase advancing. A sensor helps with that.
As for sensor less past 100% I don't think you can get the 110% option without the sensors simply because the motor would have no way of knowing at what phase angle its at. I could be wrong, maybe it's fancy enough to use bemf. Like the other guy said, it would need to be tested.
Basically the 110% option uses phase advancing. A sensor helps with that.
larsb
1 MW
Why? Sensorless gives the same or better position sensing as hall sensors at higher speed (if done well), shouldn’t matter what base speed you’re at.
dragon-fly
100 µW
- Joined
- Aug 24, 2019
- Messages
- 8
I guess the guy has to test it and see if he gets 110% without the sensor, see how smart the controller is and if it does it well.
I'm still waiting for the controller's shipment, my old controller supports sensorless motors up to full speed just like other controllers on pretty fast ebikes/escooters.. so my guesss is that the controller I purchased is just a more limited one as opposed to others..larsb said:
I was told that my sensorless motor has a very high RPM and is a 500w with 1000w capability..
I also have a sensorled motor, I just wanted to compare them on a leveled field without a speed limit.. I'll update when I get the controller which
By the way, does it make any sense for 9fet to be max 35A ? 9fet are usually 20-25A max. I hope it's not a scam or prone to be get overheated
dragon-fly
100 µW
- Joined
- Aug 24, 2019
- Messages
- 8
I assume it's learning cable, but you'd have to try it or pull appart the controller to find out. I found out by testing.
dragon-fly said:
You're right, I just wasn't sure how much the store info is unreliable, wrong wire connectiosn can damage the controller but here the risk seemed low because it's common to have m/f connectors of the same color that complete a common function
About the 3 speed levels in my former post,I only get 2 levels on my sensorless motor, low and medium, still pretty fast
.. I'll test later my sensored motor, it should have all 3 speed levels
markz
100 TW
kgff said:Do you know what the female orange wire is for?
The right pic is mine, left from the seller > notice that one red wire is not labled
ok just found out the 2 orange cables are self study
On mine self learn study are white wires, and my gt cont doesnt have a label for the wires you mention.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I hooked up Low Brake to a 2-wire Wuxing e-brake lever and it just turns off the throttle.
The H-Brake is one wire, and do you connect it to what? I dont want to fry nothing.
edit, I threw in pic from another es post in gt thread
dragon-fly
100 µW
- Joined
- Aug 24, 2019
- Messages
- 8
From what I recall you connect high brake to high voltage, aka +v, I used the low brake because you connect that to gnd
markz
100 TW
dragon-fly said:
I got no clue what +v is, is that battery positive or one of the voltage rails the controller uses, +5V, +12V or whatever the rail voltages are.
Does Hbrake apply motor brake or sometimes called ABS brake on other controllers?
Hbrake is just one wire
Low brake is two wires, I just cut off the connector and wired it straight into the wuxing brake lever wires. It feels to me as though there is a bit of a delay when you use the Low brake and want to get on the throttle right away. I will have to pay more close attention to it, I never hooked those wires up before. Out of the wad of optional wire stack, I only used Self Learn which is very useful. Reverse would be an interesting one to use what would happen if you were riding along at a certain speed and then engaged reverse
dragon-fly
100 µW
- Joined
- Aug 24, 2019
- Messages
- 8
On my controller it acts the same way, both hbrake and low brake do the same.
On my bike, it takes 12vdc, because basically it taps into rear brake light.
Enabling eabs would mean regen braking, if you don't have that enabled, it just cuts off motor power.
On my bike, it takes 12vdc, because basically it taps into rear brake light.
Enabling eabs would mean regen braking, if you don't have that enabled, it just cuts off motor power.
John in CR
100 TW
dragon-fly said:
Exactly. Ebrake low is just a short to battery negative and Ebrake high on the Greentime's is activated by a range of voltage from about +8V up to pack voltage. Tapping into the brake light signal is a great way to do it...nice and simple, plus you avoid running pack voltage up to the handlebar, something I always try to avoid since pack voltage over such a thin wire being flexed constantly is asking for trouble AFAIC.
Hello,
has somebody this programming device and know, how to read and write the programm codes E: and P: with the programm 1.3?
https://electrotransport.ru/ussr/index.php?topic=36567.54#60
Post #60
https://electrotransport.ru/ussr/images/3/1ecuryt_thumb.jpeg
https://electrotransport.ru/ussr/images/3/134vyak_thumb.jpeg
Maybe somebody has rebuilt?
BR, crumly
has somebody this programming device and know, how to read and write the programm codes E: and P: with the programm 1.3?
https://electrotransport.ru/ussr/index.php?topic=36567.54#60
Post #60
https://electrotransport.ru/ussr/images/3/1ecuryt_thumb.jpeg
https://electrotransport.ru/ussr/images/3/134vyak_thumb.jpeg
Maybe somebody has rebuilt?
BR, crumly
markz
100 TW
I must've fried something because nothing works.
H-Brake to battery voltage turns throttle off.
H-brake to independent 12V battery to gnd turns throttle off.
H-brake to 5V controller wire turns throttle off.
L-brake to ground turns throttle off
Did all the same with the 2 un-named orange or slightly brown wires with their own connector connected together, ?regen braking on/offwires?
Quick glance at my Greentime controller label
36-48V 800-1000W 35A
----------------------------------
My wires are as follows
----------------------------------
Purple/Red/Black to one connector - has PAS label
Orange/Black to one connector - has Cruising label
Blue/Black/Orange to one connector - has 3 speed label
Black/Brown to one connector - has Reverse label
Halls 5 wires with one connector, I dont use it because the controller is sensor-less.
2 white wires with separate connectors - has Self Learn label
2 orange wires with separate connectors - Unlabelled but might be ?regen braking?
Single yellow with barrel connector - has Display label
Loose wires twisted together - Red and Brown - not labeled, but 100% Ignition (Connect together turns on controller.)
Loose white wire - not labeled - Unknown - Might be L-Brake
Single yellow wire - has H-brake label
Loose black wire - not labeled - Unknown It's ground.
My throttle wires are all loose wires and unlabeled.
----------------------------------
Pictures of my controller
----------------------------------
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1720962912.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.2.2e5cb8be1m24We
Regen braking wires look similar to mine. L-Brakes yje same. H-Brakes the same.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000499235804.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.12.2e5cb8be1m24We
Regen braking is different.
L&H-Brakes are the same.
Similar H&L-Brake wires as mine, no 2 orange wires with their own connector.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Edit
The un-labelled two orange wires with each their own connector that connects to one another Regen braking on/off connectors looked corroded so I snipped them off.
I snipped them off and hardwired them together.
Tried testing it differently which you can totally notice the difference.
With kickstand down, I could easily lift the front hub motor up off the ground with one hand with the same hand also using the throttle and also leaning the bike onto the kickstand to lift the front hub.
then with the other hand I could touch the L-Brake and Gnd wires together.
Then touch the L-Brake and Ground wires together
Noticeable cogging, chug a lug and slowdown, but not as much as I hoped.
I did the same method with the orange regen on/off wires not connected.
Nothing happened, motor just kept on spinning normally.
Before I wasn't lifting the hub up off the ground and giving it throttle
I was just spinning the wheel it by hand and comparing how the wheel acts between the wires connected and not connected.
I did feel and hear a very slight cogging action.
I was expecting more of a chug-a-lug slowdown, more magnetic friction.
I don't know how it will act when I am out riding on hills, be lovely to not spend money on brake pads.
Have to extend the wires up to the handlebar to give it a go for a quick fix, otherwise I need to take off the Tektro levers, and undo all the work I did replacing cable, setting it all up.
Battery regen looks to be a good feature on other controller. I can get 55km now in the summer and Justin said he got 10-18% when he was here just riding around in the city on his cross country ride. An extra 6-10km sure beats an extra 130-250wh of battery = 4-7Ah = 20-30 18650's = $60-$90. Should have bought a Sinewave controller with regen years ago.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
L-Brake is real disappointing, won't do much but come to a slow stop.
I can't save brake pads with L-Brake.
I will have to hook up H-Brake to battery pack with another rocker switch taped to the brake lever.
Thats for another day. Will try H-Brake independently, then try L-Brake and H-Brake together.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
L-Brake needs a certain motor rpm for it to kick in strong.
The faster you go the stronger the L-Brake kicks in.
With 330lbs on a steep 20% grade short hill 75-100' its surprisingly strong braking. However I still needed to use a bit of brake. Longer hills and still steep but not too steep, works a charm. Will save lots of money on C$16 brake pads.
When I first hooked it up I was just lifting the bike and spinning the wheel by hand was obviously not enough motor rpm thats why the cogging was barely noticeable. Then the second test of my riding a few houses down and engaging L-Brake wasnt strong at all either but more noticeable then spinning wheel by hand.
I got the L-Brake on a big toggle switch, but I went out today and bought some momentary off (on) switches which I plan to mount right atop the clamp for the brake lever beside the throttle on the right hand side. Yeah sure I got the Wuxing brake levers but they feel so cheap.
Interesting to note
When I unplug one battery and switch to another battery the L-Brake did not work.
The L-Brake is plugged into one of the black ground wires on the controller.
I can't remember if I unplugged regen on/off and tested it and L-Brake did or did not work. Cant remember to hot out today. However with that still unplugged I also unplugged the ignition wires, then plugged them both back in and L-brake worked. Not sure what I will do, hook up the ignition to the big toggle switch or just buy a keyed ignition unit or key&throttle unit.
Here's Jay Leno's firetruck with frictionless braking, induction electro-magnetic brake.
Not the same but cool non the less.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eB7_4XSl4AM
H-Brake to battery voltage turns throttle off.
H-brake to independent 12V battery to gnd turns throttle off.
H-brake to 5V controller wire turns throttle off.
L-brake to ground turns throttle off
Did all the same with the 2 un-named orange or slightly brown wires with their own connector connected together, ?regen braking on/offwires?
Quick glance at my Greentime controller label
36-48V 800-1000W 35A
----------------------------------
My wires are as follows
----------------------------------
Purple/Red/Black to one connector - has PAS label
Orange/Black to one connector - has Cruising label
Blue/Black/Orange to one connector - has 3 speed label
Black/Brown to one connector - has Reverse label
Halls 5 wires with one connector, I dont use it because the controller is sensor-less.
2 white wires with separate connectors - has Self Learn label
2 orange wires with separate connectors - Unlabelled but might be ?regen braking?
Single yellow with barrel connector - has Display label
Loose wires twisted together - Red and Brown - not labeled, but 100% Ignition (Connect together turns on controller.)
Loose white wire - not labeled - Unknown - Might be L-Brake
Single yellow wire - has H-brake label
Loose black wire - not labeled - Unknown It's ground.
My throttle wires are all loose wires and unlabeled.
----------------------------------
Pictures of my controller
----------------------------------
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1720962912.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.2.2e5cb8be1m24We
Regen braking wires look similar to mine. L-Brakes yje same. H-Brakes the same.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000499235804.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.12.2e5cb8be1m24We
Regen braking is different.
L&H-Brakes are the same.
Similar H&L-Brake wires as mine, no 2 orange wires with their own connector.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Edit
The un-labelled two orange wires with each their own connector that connects to one another Regen braking on/off connectors looked corroded so I snipped them off.
I snipped them off and hardwired them together.
Tried testing it differently which you can totally notice the difference.
With kickstand down, I could easily lift the front hub motor up off the ground with one hand with the same hand also using the throttle and also leaning the bike onto the kickstand to lift the front hub.
then with the other hand I could touch the L-Brake and Gnd wires together.
Then touch the L-Brake and Ground wires together
Noticeable cogging, chug a lug and slowdown, but not as much as I hoped.
I did the same method with the orange regen on/off wires not connected.
Nothing happened, motor just kept on spinning normally.
Before I wasn't lifting the hub up off the ground and giving it throttle
I was just spinning the wheel it by hand and comparing how the wheel acts between the wires connected and not connected.
I did feel and hear a very slight cogging action.
I was expecting more of a chug-a-lug slowdown, more magnetic friction.
I don't know how it will act when I am out riding on hills, be lovely to not spend money on brake pads.
Have to extend the wires up to the handlebar to give it a go for a quick fix, otherwise I need to take off the Tektro levers, and undo all the work I did replacing cable, setting it all up.
Battery regen looks to be a good feature on other controller. I can get 55km now in the summer and Justin said he got 10-18% when he was here just riding around in the city on his cross country ride. An extra 6-10km sure beats an extra 130-250wh of battery = 4-7Ah = 20-30 18650's = $60-$90. Should have bought a Sinewave controller with regen years ago.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
L-Brake is real disappointing, won't do much but come to a slow stop.
I can't save brake pads with L-Brake.
I will have to hook up H-Brake to battery pack with another rocker switch taped to the brake lever.
Thats for another day. Will try H-Brake independently, then try L-Brake and H-Brake together.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
L-Brake needs a certain motor rpm for it to kick in strong.
The faster you go the stronger the L-Brake kicks in.
With 330lbs on a steep 20% grade short hill 75-100' its surprisingly strong braking. However I still needed to use a bit of brake. Longer hills and still steep but not too steep, works a charm. Will save lots of money on C$16 brake pads.
When I first hooked it up I was just lifting the bike and spinning the wheel by hand was obviously not enough motor rpm thats why the cogging was barely noticeable. Then the second test of my riding a few houses down and engaging L-Brake wasnt strong at all either but more noticeable then spinning wheel by hand.
I got the L-Brake on a big toggle switch, but I went out today and bought some momentary off (on) switches which I plan to mount right atop the clamp for the brake lever beside the throttle on the right hand side. Yeah sure I got the Wuxing brake levers but they feel so cheap.
Interesting to note
When I unplug one battery and switch to another battery the L-Brake did not work.
The L-Brake is plugged into one of the black ground wires on the controller.
I can't remember if I unplugged regen on/off and tested it and L-Brake did or did not work. Cant remember to hot out today. However with that still unplugged I also unplugged the ignition wires, then plugged them both back in and L-brake worked. Not sure what I will do, hook up the ignition to the big toggle switch or just buy a keyed ignition unit or key&throttle unit.
Here's Jay Leno's firetruck with frictionless braking, induction electro-magnetic brake.
Not the same but cool non the less.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eB7_4XSl4AM
Sattva Ram
100 W
- Joined
- Jan 4, 2020
- Messages
- 271
I had the 48-84 volt greentime but it had very inefficient regen maybe it regened 40% of the energy and the rest was heating the motor like crazy. I wanna buy the 9Fet 48 volt version. Does anyone know by chance whether it has the same issues with regen? If someone has it and has a temp sensor installed in the motor maybe they could confirm it (during regen the temp surges very fast in a way that it isnt supposed to given the braking power). It is also very dangerous one can easily burn the motor down. I dont know how many burnt motors greentime is responsible for in the world but I guess a loooot.
Thanks.
Thanks.
markz
100 TW
I think I broke my Greentime controller
When I hook up my 36V battery to my 36V 35A controller it can run unloaded for a long long time no problem, but start riding with load it goes for a 10' and it cuts out (slight audible/feel a click but its not as strong a click as when I normally ride and LVC kicks in for the controller) it stays cut out for a very long time afterward if not indefinitely which I havent tested that theory out yet.... it only resets when I unplug the battery, wait, and plug it back in and get a connector spark but I get 10' until its loaded up and it cuts off.
Please realize this problem ocurred when I had initially had 52V battery with 40A bms hooked up to a 36V 35A controller.
When it hits lvc there is a noticeable click, a noticeable audible sound.
For the 36V battery with no bms - by the way the controller sound is much less noticeable, much less audible then when its cutout by the lvc of the controller.
I've checked the battery voltage right after, by the time I check it the battery voltage reads 40.8V.
Either the battery sags real bad when under load, kicking in the LVC of the controller and the LVC doesnt reset itself. By the way the 36V 35A controller lvc is roughly 32V.
Maybe a wire inside the controller got hot and broke something inside. That could very well be as I crammed some wires in there on the last controller open up and fix. Which was Hobbyking Silicone wire not to pcb but from existing wire 1-2" from pcb board. I didnt feel like soldering larger silicone wire to the pcb with my fat finger, bad eyesight, Harbor Freight iron with big ass tip.
I will hookup my dmm straight to the battery, get it running again under very light load and read the results when its regular load and cuts out. Upon edit below and adding this comment I never did this part. I was going to open up the controller and see visible signs but everything looks back to normal after connecting learn wires together.
When I hook up my 52V 14.5Ah 40A BMS battery, its running just fine after I plug it in, after the cutout kicks in whatever that was. Interesting what happened but I have no clue as far as component wise. Probably just stressing capacitors or something going from 58.80V freshly charged 14S battery to a 40.80 battery. When normally I use the 40.80V first then hook up 58.80V which has a 42V BMS LVC for 14S.
I find when switching between the 52V and the 36V, when I am on the 52V and it runs out of juice and I quickly switch batteries, the 36V battery isnt immediatly, automatically engaged. I have to unplug and wait a minute or two before plugging it back in and it has worked fine like that for a long time now. The key is hearing that connector spark then I know its ready to ride.
Its almost like the capacitors are filled to high on the 52V which when out of juice, bms lvc is 42V and I just need to allow it to drain out in order to get my other battery thats charged to 40.5V.
--------------------
OK A quick little update with a cleanup and added comments to original above.
I let the bike sit overnight and there is still no throttle response.
I measured 40.8V this morning.
I then undid/reconnected the ignition wire = nothing
Same with e-abs on/off = nothing
I then momentarily touched the Learn white wires which then reveresed the direction of the wheel, so had to redo it by momentarily touching the learn wires to get wheel going in the right direction.
Took it for a spin, on flat ground, where it would normally happen it did not happen.
Then went to a slight grade to get sag
Did it a few times then went to a steeper, slight grade hill from a stop to get larger battery sag and it worked fine.
Before, on flat ground and full throttle it would cut out pretty quick.
Now, on slight grade of 2-5% from standstill, it works after momentarily touching the learn wires.
This got me to look at all the spare controllers I have.
And I have a lot of them, mostly HKSUNWIN which are all SENSORED controllers which is a bummer.
I have a 48-84 60A controller which I have no clue if its sensored or not. But I'd need a new battery.
Cyclone controller
ebay kit wimpy controller
So might be buying a spare sensorless controller
9fet 36V 35A $35C + s/h - https://evfittinggreentime.aliexpress.com/store/group/12-mosfet-type/313864_259103275.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.pcShopHead_11248317.1_0_2
I like the 36V speed on a fresh charge, but the 36V battery I have is quite dated. Ideally I'd go with a 36V 60A battery and controller. So a 48V 60A controller with LVC resistors modified.
------------------------
Edit
Update
I rode today about 40km and had no issues. I started riding with the 36V until it ran out then switched over the 52V battery and no issues. Which is the way I normally go about it, because I cant tell when the 36V battery gets empty, I can only tell when its near, within 2-4km. I can judge the 52V battery better because its newer. I can tell by the response of the battery to the throttle and general sense of distnace ridden. I would say I get a little more Wh out of charging the 36V to 41.5V then the usual 40.40V. Seems to go the same distance as my 750wh newer battery.
------------------------
Edit
Update
It has been confirmed, today I had the 52V battery which was 57.5V plugged in and when I switched to 36V (41.5V) it worked for 10' then cut out. Touched the learn wires once and did it again to get the wheel going the right direction and was off. No other issues at all.
When I hook up my 36V battery to my 36V 35A controller it can run unloaded for a long long time no problem, but start riding with load it goes for a 10' and it cuts out (slight audible/feel a click but its not as strong a click as when I normally ride and LVC kicks in for the controller) it stays cut out for a very long time afterward if not indefinitely which I havent tested that theory out yet.... it only resets when I unplug the battery, wait, and plug it back in and get a connector spark but I get 10' until its loaded up and it cuts off.
Please realize this problem ocurred when I had initially had 52V battery with 40A bms hooked up to a 36V 35A controller.
When it hits lvc there is a noticeable click, a noticeable audible sound.
For the 36V battery with no bms - by the way the controller sound is much less noticeable, much less audible then when its cutout by the lvc of the controller.
I've checked the battery voltage right after, by the time I check it the battery voltage reads 40.8V.
Either the battery sags real bad when under load, kicking in the LVC of the controller and the LVC doesnt reset itself. By the way the 36V 35A controller lvc is roughly 32V.
Maybe a wire inside the controller got hot and broke something inside. That could very well be as I crammed some wires in there on the last controller open up and fix. Which was Hobbyking Silicone wire not to pcb but from existing wire 1-2" from pcb board. I didnt feel like soldering larger silicone wire to the pcb with my fat finger, bad eyesight, Harbor Freight iron with big ass tip.
I will hookup my dmm straight to the battery, get it running again under very light load and read the results when its regular load and cuts out. Upon edit below and adding this comment I never did this part. I was going to open up the controller and see visible signs but everything looks back to normal after connecting learn wires together.
When I hook up my 52V 14.5Ah 40A BMS battery, its running just fine after I plug it in, after the cutout kicks in whatever that was. Interesting what happened but I have no clue as far as component wise. Probably just stressing capacitors or something going from 58.80V freshly charged 14S battery to a 40.80 battery. When normally I use the 40.80V first then hook up 58.80V which has a 42V BMS LVC for 14S.
I find when switching between the 52V and the 36V, when I am on the 52V and it runs out of juice and I quickly switch batteries, the 36V battery isnt immediatly, automatically engaged. I have to unplug and wait a minute or two before plugging it back in and it has worked fine like that for a long time now. The key is hearing that connector spark then I know its ready to ride.
Its almost like the capacitors are filled to high on the 52V which when out of juice, bms lvc is 42V and I just need to allow it to drain out in order to get my other battery thats charged to 40.5V.
--------------------
OK A quick little update with a cleanup and added comments to original above.
I let the bike sit overnight and there is still no throttle response.
I measured 40.8V this morning.
I then undid/reconnected the ignition wire = nothing
Same with e-abs on/off = nothing
I then momentarily touched the Learn white wires which then reveresed the direction of the wheel, so had to redo it by momentarily touching the learn wires to get wheel going in the right direction.
Took it for a spin, on flat ground, where it would normally happen it did not happen.
Then went to a slight grade to get sag
Did it a few times then went to a steeper, slight grade hill from a stop to get larger battery sag and it worked fine.
Before, on flat ground and full throttle it would cut out pretty quick.
Now, on slight grade of 2-5% from standstill, it works after momentarily touching the learn wires.
This got me to look at all the spare controllers I have.
And I have a lot of them, mostly HKSUNWIN which are all SENSORED controllers which is a bummer.
I have a 48-84 60A controller which I have no clue if its sensored or not. But I'd need a new battery.
Cyclone controller
ebay kit wimpy controller
So might be buying a spare sensorless controller
9fet 36V 35A $35C + s/h - https://evfittinggreentime.aliexpress.com/store/group/12-mosfet-type/313864_259103275.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.pcShopHead_11248317.1_0_2
I like the 36V speed on a fresh charge, but the 36V battery I have is quite dated. Ideally I'd go with a 36V 60A battery and controller. So a 48V 60A controller with LVC resistors modified.
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Edit
Update
I rode today about 40km and had no issues. I started riding with the 36V until it ran out then switched over the 52V battery and no issues. Which is the way I normally go about it, because I cant tell when the 36V battery gets empty, I can only tell when its near, within 2-4km. I can judge the 52V battery better because its newer. I can tell by the response of the battery to the throttle and general sense of distnace ridden. I would say I get a little more Wh out of charging the 36V to 41.5V then the usual 40.40V. Seems to go the same distance as my 750wh newer battery.
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Edit
Update
It has been confirmed, today I had the 52V battery which was 57.5V plugged in and when I switched to 36V (41.5V) it worked for 10' then cut out. Touched the learn wires once and did it again to get the wheel going the right direction and was off. No other issues at all.
I've ordered a Greentime 48-84V 15 Fet 1500W 45Amax Controller from Ali, I'm planning on running this using my existing 14S8P 18650 battery with a 9C 9x7 motor, 26" wheel. Hoping the Greentime will be an upgrade from the generic 9 Fet controller I've been using. Thanks Markz and others for posting this information, I still have a few questions for the sphere:
Has anyone been able to connect a display to this Greentime controller? It says it's compatible with cycle analyst, but what about the cheap SW900 display I have? I'm assuming that most people just run throttle only, with no display. The SW900 display has a multi-wire input, much like the hall sensor plug.
Any tips for a newbie for wiring regen with this controller? Is it just a matter of hard wiring the two orange regen wires together, and (momentarily) connecting the H-Brake/L-brake to Ground to enable braking? I’m assuming that brake torque has two levels governed by the H/L brake.
Has anyone done Regen with this controller at higher voltages? I’m considering a bigger 20s battery for my setup, but reading Marks post, the stock controller may not re-gen at the higher voltages. Also has anyone found a way to increase LVC on this controller and how do you do it?
FWIW: I have an electrical background but am fairly new to electric bikes.
The controller I ordered:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/322...135b95a4-0&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id":"58611525390"}
Has anyone been able to connect a display to this Greentime controller? It says it's compatible with cycle analyst, but what about the cheap SW900 display I have? I'm assuming that most people just run throttle only, with no display. The SW900 display has a multi-wire input, much like the hall sensor plug.
Any tips for a newbie for wiring regen with this controller? Is it just a matter of hard wiring the two orange regen wires together, and (momentarily) connecting the H-Brake/L-brake to Ground to enable braking? I’m assuming that brake torque has two levels governed by the H/L brake.
Has anyone done Regen with this controller at higher voltages? I’m considering a bigger 20s battery for my setup, but reading Marks post, the stock controller may not re-gen at the higher voltages. Also has anyone found a way to increase LVC on this controller and how do you do it?
FWIW: I have an electrical background but am fairly new to electric bikes.
The controller I ordered:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/322...135b95a4-0&pdp_ext_f={"sku_id":"58611525390"}
999zip999
100 TW
I'm thinking of a backup controller even says they will make a hook up for the cav3 if you tell him ahead of time. So I want to run it as a 72 volt charge to 84 volt . So this is 18 fet and says 60amp.. So 4,200 watts max. Or there's a different reality to this. 5866 display can be ordered with some models.
