Thanks very much for the support. It wasn’t a kit. I used atinkerer’s setup and went from there and it lives. It is tremendous fun to ride. Especially at night for some reason.
My remaining issue is that the motor doesn’t start until 7mph and, of course, it turns off if I drop below 7mph. This thing can be a leg burner starting from a stop going up hill to get to 7mph. Every thing I’ve tried to lower this to say 5mph causes the motor to stutter and fault out.
Also it surges forward when the motor lights off at 7mph. I’ve some ideas to get that start speed lower but I’m tired of messing with it right now. Im gonna just enjoy it for a while. The surge doesn’t bother me too much and it’s actually kind of fun. But I hesitate to let anyone else ride it because of that.
And I’m totally guessing on a limit for regen amps. I set it to 7amps buy CA shows 10 to 14amp of regen going d a steep hill. No smoke yet, so I guess it’s okay.
The rest of my details to adjust are not setup related. My rear brake rotor sqeaks against one pad but I ordered shims for that. Easy fix. And I drop the chain regularly. Ordered a wolf tooth drop stop chainring and a tighter fitting chain. Another easy fix. And my whimpy 20amp battery is barely enough for what this bike begs for. I think 30amps is the sweet spot for this bike, I can bump up against the 20amp limit pretty easily on a climb. 30amps shipped today.
This thing is so much fun… so glad I got motivated to finish it. Also, I have renewed respect for duct tape…. This battery is on there really snug. At first the duct tape was a temp solution until I figured out something better. I’m gonna keep using the tape.
From the CA user manual -->
"Throttle dead zones and motor creep occur when the throttle output voltage range is not identical to the
throttle input range of the motor controller. The Cycle Analyst provides configuration options to easily match
the output and input ranges of these two devices without the use of test equipment.
2. Configurable throttle ramping provides a means to smooth controller power application. This is of particular
value to vehicles with powerful motors or with motors/drivetrains containing gears, clutches, chains, etc.
Ramping is universally applied to the generated Throttle Out signal and so affects all operation, not just the
operator throttle. This feature can make the bike more controllable and safeguard drivetrain components"
You will have to map both the CA and controller to match. The unofficial guide I linked earlier gives you best practices on how to get it as close as possible.
You can double check if this is the case from the diagnostics screen on the cycle analyst (press left button once from the main menu)
You will have input volts(from the throttle/PAS) on the top left and output volts on the right (output to controller).
If there is a you can see an input, but there is a delay, then you have a dead zone, where the CA is not giving any output to the controller.
BEFORE MODIFYING ANYTHING SAVE YOUR SETUP FIRST(sorry for the caps)
The jerking motion can be solved by configuring the throttle input & output.
Another area is in the phaserunner suite, you can modify is by modifying the torque up and torque down settings in the output torque ramping section. Setting the value higher will give a more gradual ramping up/down and setting it lower will give you a more faster ramping. Too fast though, and it could cause a jerking motion.
I would also check that the speed limit settings are accurate, as well as the tire size, the tire size has to match in both the controller and CA.
Also in the vehicle params section, if there is a speed limit set, I would remove it as the cycle analyst will take care of it.
That's all I can think of regarding the speed issue.
Regarding the regen issue, I don't recall there being a seperate regen amps limit on the cycle analyst setup page, the only amps limit is in the power menu. Unless you did the regen amps limiting in the baserunner.
The regen, AFAIK is controller by the baserunner. In the battery limits section, you set the maximum voltage that the bike will Regen, as well as the maximum amps it will regen.
Ebike BMS's come in two flavour, seperate port and common port.
In seperate port, the charge and discharge are two seperate wires. As a result, the charge port will have a limit of, normally 8V, if it goes higher it will trip the BMS protection.
In common port the charge and discharge wires are in the same port, so the amps limit is the continuous amps limit of the controller. Seeing that your BMS hasn't tripped, it's possible that you have a common port BMS.
If you are getting a new battery, then you should be all set, do remember to change the battery parameters in the baserunner setup.
If you are swapping the BMS to a higher rated one, then you may have to swap the fuses to a higher rated one on the discharge port , if your battery has one.
Your max watts will be dependent on your battery voltage x amps.
I have a 15amp BMS x 48V = 740 watts.
if I bumped up to 20amps x 48V = 960 watts.
Given that I live in Canada, and with a "500 watt output" limit, and the 32km speed limit, 740 watts is pretty good for my small hub motor.
Your GMAC is rated for 600-1200 watts, so realistically the 30amps may be overkill assuming you have a 48V system, but thanks to the temp sensors on the grin hubs, your motor will throttle the power over 100C. In any case power ratings are nonsense, so it's all a crapshoot.
