Hidden costs of ebike

Supersleeper

100 mW
Joined
Mar 20, 2013
Messages
48
So new to ebike, and I've discovered some important accessories needed that might not be entirely evident for first timers. Feel free to add:

1. Better kickstand. $20 - Especially if you are starting out with lead acid batteries, you don't want your bike falling over from the extra weight.
2. Good helmet. $40-$100. You'll find yourself going much faster for longer periods of time. Protect yourself appropriately.
3. Cell phone mount. $20-$50. You will be itching to see how fast you are going and keep track of your battery distance capabilities.
4. Better Bike Lock. $25-$50. Protect your extra investment and make sure you lock the frame and front wheel hub into the locker.
5. Rear-view mirror. $10-$25. I've never even considered this before, but now that we can keep up with traffic you'll want to see behind you for lane changes and turns.

Cheers,

-E
 
The highest hidden cost (and by a wide margin) is the battery degradation cost. My estimate is 5 to 10 cents a mile depending on the chosen chemistry and manufacturer.

BTW, I disagree with the items you listed above. They are and are not necessary depending on the rider and very little to do with electrification. For example: I don't wear a helmet, ebike or not. I have a rear view mirror, ebike or not.
 
True, much will depend on the rider.

You might want to consider 18650 batteries. I find laptop batteries all the time that people put into ewaste, that have good cells in them. They are free, but will take you time to find good vs bad cells. I'm working with lead acid now, because I have a stock I am borrowing from my UPS, but I'm also building a stock of 18650s to replace the lead acid. I found a vendor that sells 4x18650 holders that I am placing 3 in series for 48v. Then run more sets in parallel to get the amps I need.
 
If you're not in the mood for making your own harness, it is cheaper to have some one like icecube57 to make one for you. He already has the equipment to do it so there is the savings. However depending on your flavor of harness, the price goes up rather quickly.
 
The list is a good idea, but it is going to vary quite a bit from person to person. And I would say that as somone else siad above, the battery wear and tear is probably one of the highest hidden costs, especially with SLA.

And as pointed out above, finding what you ahve isnt' good enough anymore after a while and needing to upgrade is another big hidden cost. ;)


Supersleeper said:
1. Better kickstand. $20 - Especially if you are starting out with lead acid batteries, you don't want your bike falling over from the extra weight.
Maybe. If it's a trike you don't need a kickstand at all, though. Or some cargo bikes, like mine, doesnt' need one; it rests on the cargo pods.


2. Good helmet. $40-$100. You'll find yourself going much faster for longer periods of time. Protect yourself appropriately.
I'd wear a helmet regardless of speed. Some never will.

3. Cell phone mount. $20-$50. You will be itching to see how fast you are going and keep track of your battery distance capabilities.
Not everyone will use a cellphone for that. (though some do) Several other options for those things, including wattmeters and cycle computers, or combination devices like the Cycle Analyst. Some will cost more than your estimate, some less.


4. Better Bike Lock. $25-$50. Protect your extra investment and make sure you lock the frame and front wheel hub into the locker.
Why front? What about those with rear wheel hubs, or middrives? Besides, a lock only keeps honest people honest. And a $25-$50 lock isnt' a very good one, really, from the ones I've seen--but even much more expensive ones will only take a few seconds longer to cut. ;)


5. Rear-view mirror. $10-$25. I've never even considered this before, but now that we can keep up with traffic you'll want to see behind you for lane changes and turns.
I use mirrors on pedal or ebike.

I'd add a 6th:
--tires. Whatever wheel is powered, especially if it's the front, is probably going to wear faster if you have enough power to cause wheel slip at startup. ;)

and a 7th:
--If you dont' have full suspension, and ride on bad roads, you might be more prone to destroy wheels on a heavier bike--especially hubmotor wheels because many of them are very poorly built, tensioned, and trued, or use the wrong size spokes (too big) for the rim and if they *are* tensioned correctly will break the rim over time (see late in my CrazyBike2 thread for pics of such a problem).

SamTexas said:
Supersleeper said:
You might want to consider 18650 batteries.
Good advice. I'll look into it.
Snerk. ;)
 
Kickstand: If yer full-suspension – stop looking. Haven’t found one for my frame that's worth a damn.
Battery bag: Ended up making my own.
Custom wiring: Connectors, crimpers, replacing connectors… replacing wiring, it adds up.
Helmet: Purchased a moped full-face and been quite happy.
Riding Gear for the PNW weather: Rain everything… jacket, trousers, boots, gloves. All the underclothes though were ski stuff that I repurposed.
Tires and anti-flat treatments: A long quest in finding the optimum tires and rims and spokes.
Hub motors when they rust: Grrrr… :evil:
Experimenting with Controllers: What sound is it that you never want to hear? :oops:
Fast Charger: Pokey-butt OEM chargers are for the birds.
Saddle: Went through several before I found a very good one.
Custom Mods: I ventured into fairings and DOL-lighting which have their own money bucket requirements. Worth it though if you go fast enough to keep up with traffic.
Accessories: Where to begin…? :)

What gets cheaper is diet: Except for eating more, I eat more simply because my body craves and is satisfied with the basics. Also, once your bike is built and the maintenance is sorted out where the unpredictable breakdowns occur far less randomly – that’s when you begin to get some payback on the investment. Considering how much I ride, I figure that after 5 years my batteries will be paid for in exchange for gasoline. I use a simple calculation to determine this payback:
  • Each battery costs roughly $50 per unit. A gallon of gas locally goes for about $3.85. My 4x4 Truck averages about 13 mpg for City/Hwy – depending on the activity. Therefore...
    ($50 (Battery) / $3.85 (gas)) * 13 mpg = 169 miles/battery.
I have 84 batteries mainly for cross-country, so I’d have to ride 14,182 miles before they are paid for in gas. It’s been a little over 3 years and 9,000 miles: Some have not survived. But if I do a couple more cross-country trips… I’ll be in the black. :mrgreen:

Other factors affect hidden costs too. Pedaling reduces the risk of cardiovascular failure. Personally – I find that quite worthy. :wink:

To your Health, KF
 
It costs me $5 gas round trip home to work in my SUV.
My $800 battery then needs 160 trips to pay it off. Some days I make 2 trips downtown and back so that saves $10.

When people (who don't mountain bike) ask me about ebikes as their desired replacement for a car because of fuel savings I usually tell them "Most people who are not cyclists will spend $2 at the hospital for every $1 they save on gas".
 
I think that for many there will be no money saved, but there other considerations.
In 3 yrs of ebiking i've saved maybe $1200 in gas, and spent at least $2000 in gear. In way better shape, so worth every penny. Look at it a hobby with great health benefits and the chance to recoup some cost.
If you could actually get rid of a car then the savings would go up. Not so easy for a commuter; for example I'm off the bike for a few weeks with a hand injury (unrelated) - and I need the car to get to work. Also I don't like to ride in bad weather.
There is substantial risk involved; much higher likelihood of accident or injury on the bike. Good gear and good habits can reduce those risks.
As a society we have to move away from fossil fuels. Anything that raises awareness of alternatives helps.
Also, its fun. So go for it.
 
You don't need phone GPS to watch your speed. A cheap $10 speedometer works and is more accurate. I find them for as little as $2 at the local bike swap. $1 for rear view mirrors.

Everything you listed is not specific to only ebikes. If you are bicycle commuting you need the same things.
 
Good quality Tires are a costly item on Ebikes, that's for darn sure. I go through at least one $50 Shwalbe (sp) tire per year, average.

Batteries are a scary replacement cost. But I'm on my third year with these "Turnigy" bricks with no failures, and only two balance charges in 9.000 kms total, Then I"ll chuck them out at the end of the season. Bulk-charge almost exclusively.

Kick stands are just a faiure waiting to happen. My bike falls more with a kickstand than without, and it's cheaper, just lean your bike on a post, or tree, much safer.
 
Tires, tubes, slime, and brake pads started costing me a lot more than I was realized. But on a cost per mile basis, not that bad. I just wore em out in a few months because of the long miles I rode every day. Local road conditions mean a new tire could last a week, or six months. I actually adopted the first 4 miles of road near my house, and keep the bike lane clean of sharps there.

If you have a mount for it, the double kick stand with adjustable length legs is the thing. Good FS bikes don't have the mount though. At home, you use a homemade bike stand that's cheap.

Battery has cost me about what I figured on, Sam's number is spot on for most lifepo4 batteries cost per mile. There's the rub, 15 cents a mile gets you a Chinese scooter than goes 50 mph. But in other places, or if you are younger, insurance costs more than it did for me. Get unlucky, or just dumb, and battery costs can skyrocket. I've abused a few batteries and paid the price.

You'll be buying a Cycleanalyst. The longer you put it off, the dumber you feel for that when you get it.

The real hidden cost of riding the ebike is the second, third, and fourth ebike. :roll: I've pared the fleet down some lately, and only have 4 bikes ready to ride. But there is 5 hubmotors in the garage, and a pickup truck load of bike parts.

Oh, if you didn't get the snickering, Sam's one of the laptop battery gurus here. :p
 
I never considered the CA to be a hidden cost :)

Smart money. KF
 
RICK said:
I think that for many there will be no money saved, but there other considerations.
In 3 yrs of ebiking i've saved maybe $1200 in gas, and spent at least $2000 in gear. In way better shape, so worth every penny. Look at it a hobby with great health benefits and the chance to recoup some cost.
If you could actually get rid of a car then the savings would go up. Not so easy for a commuter; for example I'm off the bike for a few weeks with a hand injury (unrelated) - and I need the car to get to work. Also I don't like to ride in bad weather.
There is substantial risk involved; much higher likelihood of accident or injury on the bike. Good gear and good habits can reduce those risks.
As a society we have to move away from fossil fuels. Anything that raises awareness of alternatives helps.
Also, its fun. So go for it.
That's why I'm doing it too. Need a way to get into shape, and people this is my #1 reasoning. #2 is that I'm a green energy freak myself. Went solar on the house (better investment IMHO than hybrid or electric car and FAR CHEAPER too). Eventually I'll build a solar charger for the ebike too.
 
As far as tire costs - it's peanuts. I have one front tire with 6000 miles on it and at least 3/4 life left. Rear tires last at least 5,000 miles. Even at $40/tire for a good one, that's .008/mile. Of course, I find most of my tires slightly used for $5-10 and they last just as long. So $0.002/ mile. My a123 battery has the same capacity as it did 5000 miles ago when new.

There is no transportation that can come close to the economics of ebiking if you need to do more than 50miles/week, especially when you look at the big picture and everything involved.
 
Even with a free subsidized monthly bus pass, I'd rather ride the e-bike. It's faster than waiting for the bus, and I can ride for a month on electricity which costs less than the gas used to drive to the transit store and back to buy the pass. I can stop and shop anywhere I want, deposit at the atm, etc. No waiting for another rolling zoo to come along. :roll:
 
veloman said:
As far as tire costs - it's peanuts. I have one front tire with 6000 miles on it and at least 3/4 life left. Rear tires last at least 5,000 miles. Even at $40/tire for a good one, that's .008/mile. Of course, I find most of my tires slightly used for $5-10 and they last just as long. So $0.002/ mile. My a123 battery has the same capacity as it did 5000 miles ago when new.

There is no transportation that can come close to the economics of ebiking if you need to do more than 50miles/week, especially when you look at the big picture and everything involved.

I totally agree. I have read more than a few people saying you don't save in the contrast of cars to ebikes. I think that many should take a much closer look at the cost over a year or so that it costs to drive a car.
 
For me it wasn't so much as economics as it is getting into shape. I did the math and discovered that it would only take me ten minutes more to commute on ebike than in car, and it saves me time out of the day from needing to spend ten minutes more for a 30 minute workout per day.
 
Re tires. FWIW, I get 2000-3000 miles from cheap walmart tires. But some last 100 miles or less, for some strange reason I never slashed a tire up on road debris that was old and ready to be replaced. Always a tire under 500 miles.

Not that bad if I don't find a caltrop, for under 20 bucks. But the tires that come on a walmart bike last at best 500 miles. Those tires on $100 bikes are special. :roll: Those are generally the only used tires you find in my locale.

I called a wattmeter a hidden cost, because I stupidly thought I didn't need one for several years. Now I need 3 or 4 of them.
 
Thinking that you will be happy with just ONE E-bike, and that you have researched enough that you have found the SINGLE kit that will satisfy all your needs...
 
Back
Top