JP spot welder

Any ideas if a 12v 1 amp wallwart would be to much to power the unit ?

Figured id check before I use another to swap plugs. Thanks
 
ohzee said:
Any ideas if a 12v 1 amp wallwart would be to much to power the unit ?

Figured id check before I use another to swap plugs. Thanks
The 1 A rating doesn't mean it will try to push through 1 A no matter what. :wink: It just means it will supply 12 V at whatever current the circuit draws, up to the 1 A limit, at which point it will either limit current, or shut down, or melt, depending on how sophisticated it is.

But it will work fine for this application.
 
Thanks. I had hoped it to be the case , but also did not want to fry my new toy 1st thing.

Just finished putting together 6 of my 20ah prismatics into 3s2p. Almost set.
 
you should build the pack as sets of individual 1P packs and not connect them in parallel first. when the pack is assembled then connect them in parallel through the sense wires. you do not have to provide large conductors to connect them in parallel since no current flows in the parallel direction. this is fundamental. don't know why it is not obvious.
 
riba2233 said:
How do you even know that he used large conductors for parallel?

that is what they spot weld together first. every thread, every post, every idea is to build the battery up by welding all of the cans together in parallel first. there is no reason for people to do it except everyone follows along just like sheep follow the leader.

until some of these people have to take a battery apart to remove bad cells they will not even understand why i try to get people to think. but most won't understand even then.
 
Test welds look good. Did have to dial it in some , but once I found the sweet spot they were consistent.

So ordering nickel from the suggested vendors one from ebay is about pinkey nail width and the one from electric rider is 5 times as wide.

Now that I have my own welder even if I had to replace a battery in a string it should not be so bad. I also plan on doing an obscene
amount in parallel and only use 4.12 to 3.8 of the pack majority of the time. Of the 400 tesla cells I want to get as many I can into
my frame.
 
ohzee said:
Test welds look good. Did have to dial it in some , but once I found the sweet spot they were consistent.

So ordering nickel from the suggested vendors one from ebay is about pinkey nail width and the one from electric rider is 5 times as wide.

Now that I have my own welder even if I had to replace a battery in a string it should not be so bad. I also plan on doing an obscene
amount in parallel and only use 4.12 to 3.8 of the pack majority of the time. Of the 400 tesla cells I want to get as many I can into
my frame.

WOW, 4.12 to 3.8!

3.8 resting or under load?

You'll get better longevity at lower SOC.

Use 4.0 to 3.5 or so...

Either way is overkill, haha.
 
hah ok ill do that then. ill just get to go longer between charges.

One thing about the phasor I am not crazy is side access. Some of these newer frame kits like the raptor you can access the entire compartment , but when you stuff all you can into a phasor you pretty much need to do assemble inside the bike or have some type of plugs. oh well not something I cant work around.
 
ohzee said:
Test welds look good. Did have to dial it in some , but once I found the sweet spot they were consistent.

So ordering nickel from the suggested vendors one from ebay is about pinkey nail width and the one from electric rider is 5 times as wide.

Now that I have my own welder even if I had to replace a battery in a string it should not be so bad. I also plan on doing an obscene
amount in parallel and only use 4.12 to 3.8 of the pack majority of the time. Of the 400 tesla cells I want to get as many I can into
my frame.


I'm glad it works fine :)

Can you share what battery you are using, and also what material and at what setting, so we can compare results? It would be splendid :)
 
ohzee said:
Test welds look good. Did have to dial it in some , but once I found the sweet spot they were consistent.
If you have time, a photo of your welder with the battery you are using to drive it and a macro shot of a weld would be nice as well...
 
Gathering things to start making my new battery so Ill get some pics once I get started.

Using prismatic cells in a 3s2p configuration as someone else in the thread said worked well. a123 20ah 6 of them.

Purchased nickel listed in nobuo's thread tho none from aliexpress as I have never used them before. Just ebay and electric rider.
 
Hi All,

I'm sorry if this is a dumb question . . . it seems like it SHOULD be a dumb question, but I can't seem to find the answer.

I'm looking to purchase a SLA battery for use with the JP Spot Welder I just ordered, and looking on battery sites and amazon there are tons listed as 12v 4.5 Ah but I can't find any that are listed as 12v 45AH am I just not looking in the right place?

Anyone in USA recommend what type battery they use and a supplier ? Prefer USA supplier and not alibabab etc but at this point any advice greatly appreciated.
 
The battery you need to get is probably larger then one you would want to ship.

id recommend getting one at a local shop somewhere. that is why they are smaller because most places would not want to ship a car size batter.

at least that's my thoughts.
 
Wait, is this just a regular "car battery"? again sorry, I think I'm just tripping up on the term "starter battery"
 
There is never too much. I found working with battery giving 720A far more pleasant than with 450A.
Both could weld my nickel 0,15 well but shorter pulse is more convinient. Also bigger battery means it holds charge after few hundred welds. Smaller 60Ah battery discharged pretty fast - i could not weld a whole 91cell battery with it. I had to recharge.
 
Back
Top