Nick's Black eTownie

Holy thread bump! But I'm glad I saw this. normally comfort bikes don't get me all excited but that is a super clean and tasteful build. The design and execution are both top notch! great work
 
nicobie said:
Thank you, but it's really nothing special compared to lots of other builds here.

I really like your build, especially the amount of space that provides a lot of battery option flexibility) and it got me looking for a similar donor bike. Question about the fork setup: The frame appears to have a pretty large (diameter) head tube, and the stock bike appears to have a threaded headset and fork. It looks like the suspension fork has a 1-1/8" steerer tube. Can you describe the current configuration (e.g. 1-1/8" threadless headset, etc.?). The headtube looks fairly long too, so trying to determine the options for front forks that would work. Thanks.
 
It's been so long that I don't remember and I sold the bike years ago. It was a standard Electra Townie frame. I'm pretty sure that they still make them. the new fork had a 1 1/8 steering tube that came uncut from White bros. I didn't need to cut it as it fit out of the box. Pretty sure the fork was a standard size. You could probably get more info directly from Electra.
 
E-HP, it is possible to order a very long steerer tube and cut to length, then swap it onto the fork crown. I seem to remember the Electra Townie had a longer-than-normal head-tube...
 
spinningmagnets said:
E-HP, it is possible to order a very long steerer tube and cut to length, then swap it onto the fork crown. I seem to remember the Electra Townie had a longer-than-normal head-tube...

Thanks. Knowing that it fits a standard 1-1/8" steerer tube (rather than requiring a threaded headset) opens up more choices, even though it probably rules out most used suspension forks due to the long head tube. Still, that longer head tube allows for a lot more room in the "triangle: for batteries, and the forward placed bottom bracket allows for good leg extension even with a low seat height. Not sure, but that bottom bracket placement might even allow for a mid drive to be placed within the triangle.
 
is/was there a reason to choose a hub motor over the mid drive?
less complicated due to drive train not involved in the power to the wheel transfer?
 
That bike looks to be a 3x8 so its a Townie Electra 21D and it does have an extra long headtube, 1-1/8 straight, they came stock with a front suspension fork, mine was white fork, blue frame 21D.
 
Hi Nick, I have a question about the immortal townie frame: I see you packed a decent amount of power on your bike - how do the rear dropouts handle it ? Stock dropouts are quite weak on this bike, especially with that weird backwards elongated design (probably to ensure compatibility of the frame with igh dropouts) . Even with torque arms, I wouldn't feel too comfy with a heavy motor sitting there... What's your experience ?
 
Don't worry so much about the dropouts, they handled my hub motor, 2kw just fine with mxus 3kw (heavy heavy heavy motor)
However I wasn't doing jumps or getting air, just the occasional curb action is all.
Its the holes in the frame for the cable routing you have to be concerned about.
My blue Townie Electra 21D had its top tube crack right at the hole for the cable, nearest the seat.
I hung batteries off that top tube.
I threw that bike out, but thinking I should have kept it but who knows with something like that.
I kept my Surface 604 fat bike that cracked at the weld, but it to has holes in the frame for cable routing.

Townie specs say: Frame Townie 6061-T6 Alloy Flat Foot Technology®
So I dont know if that needed special treatment after welding.

Oh another thing to note is I had loose t.a.'s (over time) and visually confirmed gouged flats on the dropouts, but the rear dropouts held up fine. The mxus 3kw was a tight fit but I just spread the dropout a hair (not much) to fit the hub motor.
 
markz said:
Its the holes in the frame for the cable routing you have to be concerned about.

Good point - thanks for the input. I'm considering a sparker frame for that reason - no internal cable routing and large "fancy" dropout plates with enough spaces to drill hole for is2000 disc mounts. Unfortunately that frame comes only with 1" head tubes, which makes it super difficult to find a good matching suspension fork... never riding without one again!

EDIT: Just noticed some old townies have reinforcement joints on both ends of the top tube. Hard to find now. Anyone knows which models ? Also, why did electra drop them :(

221973b0731c4e10a3d0ea86f4a728c6.jpg
 
The side covers are of aluminum (10 gauge, I think) covered with a $20 carbon fiber sticker. The fender is just a cheap one I found some where on the www. I like them because they come off without using tools.
How does that battery box attach to the frame?

What motor are you using? Is there a reason you went with hub motor rather than mid-drive?
 
Townie Electra 21D is 2008-2018


Townie Electra 21 (without the D) is xxxx-2007 and has the seat post bracket and front bracket.
As early as 2004 from what the website pics look like.

 
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EDIT: Just noticed some old townies have reinforcement joints on both ends of the top tube. Hard to find now. Anyone knows which models ? Also, why did electra drop them :(

221973b0731c4e10a3d0ea86f4a728c6.jpg
I've picked up 4 of them in the past couple months. They often come up on Facebook Marketplace.
 
How does that battery box attach to the frame?

What motor are you using? Is there a reason you went with hub motor rather than mid-drive?
I pre drilled for some self tappers through the aluminum side covers to the frame. The pics will do a better job describing what I did.
 
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