shorza said:Here are the phase connectors between my 9c motor and Lyen 12FET controller.
Obviously, my controller settings of 43amps (120amp phase) is too high. I have now adjusted the phase current to 100amps.
The plugs are making a good connection, but are there better connectors that I could use?
dogman said:All of the above.
I've been suprised that Lyens builds those high power controllers, and then still uses cheap bullets. I've cut em off every one of my lyens controllers immediately, event the tiny 9 fet. Using at most 4000w for a burst, and mostly 2000w or less, Iv'e been able to just use 45 amp powerpoles. I'd go to bullets if I was runnning 8 or 10 guage phase wires though.
itchynackers said:Dont use Andersons unless they are the 75A or more. The 45's are complete garbage for this application. 4mm's are good. XT150's are good.
John in CR said:The only reason to use connectors at all is if you must park your bike in a location where you have to remove major components to feel secure. The comment above about flats is erroneous, because a proper drip loop give you sufficient slack to remove a wheel.
John in CR said:The main problem of the OP is controller settings which are just wasting battery capacity. I don't know what wind the motor is, but unless it's a 5 turn, which almost no one uses, it can't handle those phase currents. Justin tested a 9x7 and it saturated at phase amps of 70A, so even that high is really too high. Running your phase current limits anywhere near stator saturation creates tremendous amounts of heat, and is the primary reason people burn up motors, halls, or wiring.
kifukarider said:I agree that you shouldn't need to disconnect to fix a flat, but connectors are useful during assembly, major maintenance, and of course swapping/testing components.
kifukarider said:... I've read battery amps times 2.5 = max phase amps as a good estimate. The default configuration files provided by Lyen for the 12FET and 18FET specify 30 battery amps and 80 phase amps.
So far I've disconnected the motor/controller to: do cable management improvements, test out a new controller, swap out controllers, and swap motors. I've never crossed my wires, but that would be another immediate benefit of having connectors. I'm glad your system works for you though.John in CR said:Soldering 2 wires together is easier than soldering connectors to each. You obviously don't hard wire until the end and you're sure the wiring is correct. What major maintenance, since ebikes shouldn't require maintenance of the drive system?...You'd need to plan future removal more than twice (twice is easy to just cut and resolder), before you come out ahead with connectors.
This post looks like valuable information http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=18675#p272438. For everyone's convenience, here are all of MWKeefer's posts regarding block time http://endless-sphere.com/forums/se...&sr=posts&keywords=block+time&author_id=12847 and what I believe is the full thread referenced http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=18675.John in CR said:MWKeefer shared his insights regarding the battery/phase current limit relationship years ago in a thread about Block Time, and since I started following it I haven't looked back. Using his method I was able to tune a 3.5kw rated hubbie to 30kw with battery current limited to 425A and phase current 550A. I also haven't burned a controller since adopting MWKeefer's methodology, and I run hubmotors at higher power than anyone I know of.