Farfle
100 kW
hehe, Continuous power will go way up, take a look at this, no more crappy cast spokes.
Re-winding a hubmotor
- Thread starter Farfle
- Start date
Farfle
100 kW
More progress
Geez, this guy doesn't mess around. 
Thud
1 MW
I predicted some cool stuff from this shop after meeting Farfle & his father at the grange race....these guy's are sharp & capable..
that huge chunck of billet is far enough out of the magnet flux to negate any eddy losses i assume. soo we going to see some improv cooling chanels & such?
We tourests officialy "double dog dare" ya'll to go the extra mile, (as if this wasn't enough motor crack already LOL)
that huge chunck of billet is far enough out of the magnet flux to negate any eddy losses i assume. soo we going to see some improv cooling chanels & such?
We tourests officialy "double dog dare" ya'll to go the extra mile, (as if this wasn't enough motor crack already LOL)
Spicerack
10 kW
I reckon we need to see the ES symbol milled in to that chunk of ali somewhere..... 8)
Farfle
100 kW
More progress made lathing the center part. It should be able to soak some serious heat now
Alan B
100 GW
I believe that is referred to as "turning" the part.
Nice chunk of thermal mass. Will store a lot of heat and delay the temperature rise. But how does it get out of the motor?
Nice chunk of thermal mass. Will store a lot of heat and delay the temperature rise. But how does it get out of the motor?
Farfle
100 kW
Alan B said:
Inox fluid
Alan B
100 GW
Farfle said:
Liquid Cooled. Nice.
Farfle
100 kW
Looks pretty good 
, only 6 pounds
, only 6 pounds
You could probably take out quite a bit more material toward the outside edge. The "spokes" can get thinner toward the outside as they have less bending moment there. Good to keep a good rim around the outside edge though. I suppose if the plan is to use it for heat dissipation, then the additional mass could be useful.
If there was a way to embed a tube around the circumference and get some coolant flowing through it, you wouldn't need so much thermal mass.
If there was a way to embed a tube around the circumference and get some coolant flowing through it, you wouldn't need so much thermal mass.
parabellum
1 MW
Better then good!Farfle said:
What is your plan for liquid cooling? I am filling my Mxus DD hub with oil right now.
Farfle
100 kW
Ill be machining fins into the back of that big perimeter shoulder, and then doing a liquid fillid motor, and may use the motor as the reservior to circulate the liquid thru the radiator along with the controller. Our if out puts out scary enough power, I'll just leave our air cooled.
Filling the whole thing with oil seems like it would increase viscous drag quite a bit. Maybe OK with really runny oil, but still sounds messy.
The idea is to suck heat away from the copper. Going through iron isn't the best, but much better than air. Once it hits the aluminum, it still has to go somewhere.
If all the heat from the copper could be evenly distributed over the surface of the housing, you could dissipate a lot to the ambient without leaving it open. I've always had good luck with forced air cooling, but for wet weather it is less than ideal.
The idea is to suck heat away from the copper. Going through iron isn't the best, but much better than air. Once it hits the aluminum, it still has to go somewhere.
If all the heat from the copper could be evenly distributed over the surface of the housing, you could dissipate a lot to the ambient without leaving it open. I've always had good luck with forced air cooling, but for wet weather it is less than ideal.
if mtor is coated wel enough against wet, on windings stator lams etc., then it will perfoem even better in wet weather if noermally open and air cooled.
parabellum
1 MW
fechter said:
~1/4 of the hub with thinnest oil you can find. I like sealed system, it is kind of more protected, imagine some kid trowing small rock inside the hub, or sand inside after a while. Cowering with mesh is even more risky if it falls off.
Farfle
100 kW
Will probably add the temp sensor, and abuse it a set amount, then start adding light oil a a few oz at a time, and just experiment with it.
Farfle
100 kW
Arlo1 said:
ill probably use an oven temp sensor, what do you mean by fast?
Farfle
100 kW
Huh, wonder where GM put the temp sensor in the motor, I know that the cheap digital thermometer at the house
Will show dramatic temp changes in 1-2 sec, probably faster if I remove the SS cover off the thermistor.
Will show dramatic temp changes in 1-2 sec, probably faster if I remove the SS cover off the thermistor.
If the sensor is making contact with the copper windings, it should give you a fast enough reading. Then make the set point a little lower than the maximum allowable temperature to make up for thermal lag.
Farfle
100 kW
Will probably put the thermister on one of the end turns with some jb-weld or othet metallized epoxy and leave it at that, the controller probably wont be able to cook the motor very quickly, even at 420a phase.
zombiess
10 MW
Thermometer solution I use to monitor internal controller and FET temps.
http://www.amazon.com/DT304-Input-Digital-Logging-Thermometer/dp/B0039LAVEM/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1327000798&sr=1-1
http://www.amazon.com/DT304-Input-Digital-Logging-Thermometer/dp/B0039LAVEM/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1327000798&sr=1-1
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