Re-winding a hubmotor

I dont think so, there are 16 pieces of copper in the two middle slots, and 8 in the slots on either side.
 
I decided to wind the motor the way I had it, it was too hard to keep the ends corralled the other way. Heres some images of progress.

2012-01-26231126.jpg


2012-01-26231154.jpg


2012-01-26231218.jpg
 
just an observation, something to think about...
By using 4 wires in parallel and having only 2 windings per tooth
the wire length inbetween the 3-teeth clusters (useless) is long
w.r.t. the wire length around the teeth (usefull). A single strand
would have a much better usefull to useless ratio (but
would need 4 times the voltage of course) and therefore a
higher efficiency...

are you 100% sure the winding patern shoudn't be
AaABbBCcCaAabBbcCcAaA etc etc ?
 
Very nice work. I'm getting a delightful feeling by watching these pictures.

Lebo:
AaABbBCcCAaABbBCcCAaABbBCcCAaABbBCcCAaABbBCcCAaABbBCcCAaABbBCcC is right according to http://powerditto.de/bewicklungsrechner.html
 
bearing said:
Very nice work. I'm getting a delightful feeling by watching these pictures.

Lebo:
AaABbBCcCAaABbBCcCAaABbBCcCAaABbBCcCAaABbBCcCAaABbBCcCAaABbBCcC is right according to http://powerditto.de/bewicklungsrechner.html

ok, just making sure, thanks for the link ! :D
 
Would there be any benefit of replacing the stock magnets with stronger magnets? Seems like they would react stronger to the coil fields in the stator and create more torque. Would this then require advanced timing?
You could possibly even go with a thicker magnet thickness is you were willing to rework the outside edge of the covers.
But then again if this was beneficial then lots of people would already be doing it.
 
Yes, stronger magnets would be a good thing, it would lower the rpm/v, and increase the tourque and efficiency, replacing these might happen, however it adds alot of cost, and I am already over what I planned , but such is the way of things.
 
yeah Nice work!

ooh the things I would do if I had access to those materials and machines ... :twisted:
 
Quick question for the gurus out there, I am building up the wiring harness for this motor, and I need hall sensors. Which ones Do I use? There seems to be a few dozen variants in the SS41 series.

These guys?

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Honeywell/SS41/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtdU8v%2fCHkq39AvnkiVL6ci
 
One more question, Fechter mentioned putting a varnish or epoxy on the windings, what varnish/epoxy wold you all reccomend?, Will this stuff work?

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/SPRAYON-Insulating-Varnish-1D276?Pid=search
 
Those sensors should work; they are the same ones I have installed in my powerchair motor experiment.
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=489885#p489885

I dunno about the varnish, but that one probably would work. Depends on it's final temperature rating, and whether it requires a heat cure or not, etc. I think it said "class F", which shoudl be 155°C
http://elpaso.apogee.net/md/mfnrins.asp
If you want a higher temperature rating, Class H would be 180°C. Dunno where to get that though.
 
You can buy coloured or clear engine enamel from an auto parts store which will do just about the same job and rated for the heat...
 
The best thing i ever found was spray on protective coating for marine turbine stators. I think that might even beat Ottawa road salt, but I have no experience with it and can only guess.
SS411A are the standard as far as I know; for instance I believe that's what we requested in the 54xx buy as "upgraded" halls.
 
Yes, the SS411A's (with two 1's) are the industry standard when upgrading to better quality halls. 8)
 
andynogo said:
Yes, the SS411A's (with two 1's) are the industry standard when upgrading to better quality halls. 8)

Thanks, ill order a few of those in.
 
While on the subject of hall sensors.
When installed do they all face the same way or alternate and flip flop?
 
Same way. But it shouldn't matter; reversing them would not reverse the field they are affected by. Just make sure you do your wiring right whatever way they are up, so doing all the same is easier.
 
Gotta wind all 3 strands together. The risk is really high of botching a single turn on a single strand out of all those teeth, and that results in a single strand fighting the BEMF voltage of the rest of the motor, and everything goes to hell in a hand-bag.

Definitely best to wind all 3 together.
 
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