Revolt Rv-120 pro/ norco aline Video teaser
- Thread starter boisrondevens
- Start date
John Bozi
100 kW
Have you run 15000watts through that chain?
My 4065 does 5000watts now - but don't really need it 90% of the time.
Its a nice build mate just asking questions... as I would like something similar to yours but with the motor sprung. Otherwise I wouldn't need to extend my swing arms as with my 20" wheels I already got a huge space for a motor.
My 4065 does 5000watts now - but don't really need it 90% of the time.
Its a nice build mate just asking questions... as I would like something similar to yours but with the motor sprung. Otherwise I wouldn't need to extend my swing arms as with my 20" wheels I already got a huge space for a motor.
boisrondevens
100 W
I'm using a 100v 60a crystalyte controller ( stock). So I only push it to 6kw and I like to mention that the motor only get warm even after some crazy and repeatedly hard accelerations.
I'm waithing on the max-e controller to really see are hard I can push that thing.
Even now with 6kw the motor respond with authority.
The back wheel is 26 but I'm planing to change that for 24 inc.
This bike is custom build with downhill competition parts. With the motor, controller and wiring...
The bike only 25 kilos ( thanks to the battery back pack)
For the chain question, so far so good but a have bmx chain for the crazy day's coming
I'm waithing on the max-e controller to really see are hard I can push that thing.
Even now with 6kw the motor respond with authority.
The back wheel is 26 but I'm planing to change that for 24 inc.
This bike is custom build with downhill competition parts. With the motor, controller and wiring...
The bike only 25 kilos ( thanks to the battery back pack)
For the chain question, so far so good but a have bmx chain for the crazy day's coming
panurge
10 kW
Not really like an Hubmotor, and what kind of 4,5Kg hubmotor is able to sustain these power rates?
Nice and clever build, if It will last your rides enough, I will consider the same but with a separated drive on the left side as usual with powerful RC's and maybe the motor suspended on the frame....
The main potential limits on the mech side I could notice, are the 11t sprocket (but easy and cheap to replace) and mostly the ratcheting mech of the freehub....hard to trust it can withstand these rates...maybe a DT or CK or other high torque mechs, I'm working on a custom hub that should solve that.....
Would be very cool and useful if you'd like to share details of the HG 9splines to 44mm pcd 6 bolt adapter I see in the Pics, you did it yourself or is it available anywhere?
Very neat solution with the rotor as support....maybe not that light, though....But you could consider to use the rotor as support for a bash too....especially using flexy and light bike chains.
would be interesting to see the planned LH pedal drivetrain....couldn't well figure out how does it could work....I mean the freewheel...will the chain goes spoke side or outer side of the rotor? I'm curious about the plan, that should be not simple...i guess
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Nice and clever build, if It will last your rides enough, I will consider the same but with a separated drive on the left side as usual with powerful RC's and maybe the motor suspended on the frame....
The main potential limits on the mech side I could notice, are the 11t sprocket (but easy and cheap to replace) and mostly the ratcheting mech of the freehub....hard to trust it can withstand these rates...maybe a DT or CK or other high torque mechs, I'm working on a custom hub that should solve that.....
Would be very cool and useful if you'd like to share details of the HG 9splines to 44mm pcd 6 bolt adapter I see in the Pics, you did it yourself or is it available anywhere?
Very neat solution with the rotor as support....maybe not that light, though....But you could consider to use the rotor as support for a bash too....especially using flexy and light bike chains.
would be interesting to see the planned LH pedal drivetrain....couldn't well figure out how does it could work....I mean the freewheel...will the chain goes spoke side or outer side of the rotor? I'm curious about the plan, that should be not simple...i guess
Build subscribed!!!
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Drum
100 W
Hi PunxOr,
if you look at the earlier posts, the motor sprocket is 11 teeth and the wheel sprocket is 52 teeth, giving a ratio of 4.72:1.
The 16 tooth freewheel he is talking about is on the back wheel for the pedaling drivetrain, not the motor drivetrain.
From memory the motor has a kV of around 45, so the gearing is quite high, but with the torque this motor can develop it isn't unreasonable. Crazy top speed available, especially if I understand correctly that he is running 100V!
I very much doubt that the standard bicycle chain drive will last long, especially if he is planning to increase the power still further....
Drum
if you look at the earlier posts, the motor sprocket is 11 teeth and the wheel sprocket is 52 teeth, giving a ratio of 4.72:1.
The 16 tooth freewheel he is talking about is on the back wheel for the pedaling drivetrain, not the motor drivetrain.
From memory the motor has a kV of around 45, so the gearing is quite high, but with the torque this motor can develop it isn't unreasonable. Crazy top speed available, especially if I understand correctly that he is running 100V!
I very much doubt that the standard bicycle chain drive will last long, especially if he is planning to increase the power still further....
Drum
Punx0r said:
Ill second that and boisrondevens nice concept, what was your mates cromotor setup ie voltage/ wheel size how many watts was he pulling and who had better acceleration , any chance on some better. closer shots of your install thanks.
panurge
10 kW
assuming a 26x2.5 tire, top speed should be around 120kph.
boisrondevens
100 W
boisrondevens
100 W
RLT
10 kW
Very interesting. Thank you for the details.
panurge
10 kW
OK, many thanks for the details, so the RH seems made from a cassette spider.....LH seems custom made with LH threads (perhaps using a 135mm Hub into 150mm dropouts)
Anyway all that make a lot of sense to me....that big motor weights a bit over a complete 3220 or 80-100 drive (4,7kg including final chain, freewheel, adapters and sprockets on mine) perfect to prove that even for powerful RC, should be the right time to try the "luke" way to put most of the weight in motor mass, rather than reduce single or twins faster and smaller motors.
With your setup should be neat and easy to try a belt stage..... silent, clean, maintenance free and safer than a chain, not the best for dirt maybe....but the motor Itself as is, wouldn't see any mud/wet terrain, I suppose.
Unfortunately, the wider ratio you can get with a centertrack belt is 3.68, not enough. but A double, slim, standard toothed belt setup with two drive pulleys on the shaft and 2 epoxed/bolted driven, on both rotor's sides is anyway an elegant option. Even ditching the pedals and using belts both sides of the motor. (just need a customized fixed/fixed Hub with 2 rotor mounts and a 12mm TA bearing assembly) Than mount both driven pulleys to adapters like your LH one, each side....It should be done I think.
With the swing-arm mounted motor no flex issues will affect a belt transmission...only, you need to find a solution to tension the belt (new slider extended dropouts and/or sliding motor mount)
Also, Seems that the 2 sprocket ratio (4.75) is close to the Motordia/wheeldia ratio that from my raw calc should be 5.6.....what a perfect friction drive monster
I'm sorry to pollute your thread with my Ideas for it.....the bike and the thread are yours, but are so cool, that have stimulated my imagination too much. Hope you'll be ok with that...
Looking forward to see next details, and action movies 8)
Make one, dusting a Cromo at similar Voltages, and you'll be my hero!!! (noway to compare any Hubmotor bike with your one....though).
Anyway all that make a lot of sense to me....that big motor weights a bit over a complete 3220 or 80-100 drive (4,7kg including final chain, freewheel, adapters and sprockets on mine) perfect to prove that even for powerful RC, should be the right time to try the "luke" way to put most of the weight in motor mass, rather than reduce single or twins faster and smaller motors.
With your setup should be neat and easy to try a belt stage..... silent, clean, maintenance free and safer than a chain, not the best for dirt maybe....but the motor Itself as is, wouldn't see any mud/wet terrain, I suppose.
Unfortunately, the wider ratio you can get with a centertrack belt is 3.68, not enough. but A double, slim, standard toothed belt setup with two drive pulleys on the shaft and 2 epoxed/bolted driven, on both rotor's sides is anyway an elegant option. Even ditching the pedals and using belts both sides of the motor. (just need a customized fixed/fixed Hub with 2 rotor mounts and a 12mm TA bearing assembly) Than mount both driven pulleys to adapters like your LH one, each side....It should be done I think.
With the swing-arm mounted motor no flex issues will affect a belt transmission...only, you need to find a solution to tension the belt (new slider extended dropouts and/or sliding motor mount)
Also, Seems that the 2 sprocket ratio (4.75) is close to the Motordia/wheeldia ratio that from my raw calc should be 5.6.....what a perfect friction drive monster
I'm sorry to pollute your thread with my Ideas for it.....the bike and the thread are yours, but are so cool, that have stimulated my imagination too much. Hope you'll be ok with that...
Looking forward to see next details, and action movies 8)
Make one, dusting a Cromo at similar Voltages, and you'll be my hero!!! (noway to compare any Hubmotor bike with your one....though).
litespeed
100 kW
Very cool.
Tom
Tom
macribs
10 MW
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So cool. I think this is the first build I've seen here using the Revolt Rv 120 motor.
I would like to hear something about performance, acceleration and top speed. Seems that motor is capable of delivering some awesome fun.
What made you decide to not use left side drive for the motor, it should be possible to "reverse" the motor, yes?
It just seems like a awful lot of work making your pedal sprocket and rear sprocket on the left side.
Maybe I overlooked something. *little confused*
I would like to hear something about performance, acceleration and top speed. Seems that motor is capable of delivering some awesome fun.
What made you decide to not use left side drive for the motor, it should be possible to "reverse" the motor, yes?
It just seems like a awful lot of work making your pedal sprocket and rear sprocket on the left side.
Maybe I overlooked something. *little confused*
izeman
1 GW
it would be interesting to see how long the chain lasts. my regular bike chain is almost at the end after 300km in my middrive with 2.2kw peak. at least this is what my chain meter tells me.
macribs
10 MW
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Don't think the chain or the sprockets will have a long life - 5 kw up to 15 kw. That is some real power compared to your 2,2 kw peak. And you only gets 300 km. Guess swapping chain and sprockets will become a routine job for this ride
I think heavy duty chain/sprockets, or maybe mc chain or possible the best solution would be belt and pulleys.
Belt would be both durable and quiet.
I think heavy duty chain/sprockets, or maybe mc chain or possible the best solution would be belt and pulleys.
Belt would be both durable and quiet.
izeman
1 GW
yes. and it's not only chain and sprockets. the bikes eats tires for breakfast as well.
but i surely won't reduce power. if i can't afford maintenance parts i still can ride my car ...
but i surely won't reduce power. if i can't afford maintenance parts i still can ride my car ...
panurge
10 kW
the freehub, if any normal one, is the first almost inevitable fault I think, chain is easily upgradable, with this config., freehub is not.
macribs
10 MW
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izeman said:yes. and it's not only chain and sprockets. the bikes eats tires for breakfast as well.
but i surely won't reduce power. if i can't afford maintenance parts i still can ride my car ...
Well if you swap to belt drive and then use a motorcycle tire you would not have those problems.
I read somewhere here on ES you can even fit mc tyres to mtb rims if you fear weight issues.
im considering this atm but lots to workout
izeman how long does a tyre lastizeman said:yes. and it's not only chain and sprockets. the bikes eats tires for breakfast as well.
but i surely won't reduce power. if i can't afford maintenance parts i still can ride my car ...
boisrondevens
100 W
My first intention was to built a 2 speed system ( direct retro drive). By reversing the motor with a button on the handle bar. That's the reason why the motor drive is on the right side. I think this would have being the first time on this forum. the chaine is doing just fine but i don't have the ultimate controller yet for this motor.
I'm using a crystalyte 96v 60a with 4115 fets, my battery is a 24s.
So far the max watts this motor seen is 6kw. The groupe buy for the max-e is taking too long I might go for the sabtron from Zombies.
I'm using a crystalyte 96v 60a with 4115 fets, my battery is a 24s.
So far the max watts this motor seen is 6kw. The groupe buy for the max-e is taking too long I might go for the sabtron from Zombies.
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macribs
10 MW
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Well that would be a cool build but you would still have all the power via bike grade chain and sprocket, with a powerful motor durability will be an issue. And with all that turning of the chain here and there how would that work with 15 kw peak power beaten down on your gear at hard acceleration?
Although your approach works it just seems to be more work required moving pedal sprockets and chain to the left side and then make motor a right hand side, then if you had let the right side chain and sprocket be and let the motor run a more rugged chain and sprocket (or belt and pulleys) on the left side.
Although your approach works it just seems to be more work required moving pedal sprockets and chain to the left side and then make motor a right hand side, then if you had let the right side chain and sprocket be and let the motor run a more rugged chain and sprocket (or belt and pulleys) on the left side.
