Shimano Steps E6000 - how to add throttle

Peterwoods

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Hi All
My wife has a Scott ebike, but because of serious knee problems is hardly able to use it.
Can anyone advise me on how to add a throttle to the Shimano Steps E6000 system?
 
Pretty much impossible unfortunately. If they sold a version of the motor with a throttle you could possibly add one on. But from my googling they don't. If you were pigheadedly determined and extremely tech savvy you could replace a bunch of the components like the controller, display, and probably the battery management system and cobble together something with a throttle. It would be a very different bike afterwards though.

Better off selling the bike and getting something that's a better fit unfortunately.
 
Thanks Epithemeus, I would take your advice and sell the bike if I thought I could avoid the scammers and anyone would give me good price........
I guess I may well be pig headed, but I'd give modification a go if anyone could recommend a controller etc. Is there anywhere else I might get advice?
 
Thanks Epithemeus, I would take your advice and sell the bike if I thought I could avoid the scammers and anyone would give me good price........
I guess I may well be pig headed, but I'd give modification a go if anyone could recommend a controller etc. Is there anywhere else I might get advice?
I think you're in the right place, hopefully some others will chime in with advice as well though, I only know so much.

It's really not going to be easy. I can't speak to your knowledge level but I know that I would need a pretty compelling reason to consider it even though I do have the skillset to do it.

A baserunner controller from ebikes.ca would be a good swap in as it has an autotune procedure for working with unknown motors. Baserunner - Grin Products - Product Info You could take a look at that page and read the user manual as a starting point. It's pretty technical though. The biggest obstacle is going to be that these systems are very locked in and the battery probably won't work unless it gets the right signal from the controller which the baserunner can't do. So then you're either swapping the battery out somehow or tearing out the battery management system and replacing it with a non proprietary BMS, not an easy feat.

I almost wonder if it's easier to disconnect the torque sensor and try and use a throttle to make a signal that feeds into where it was. It would become a throttle only bike though. Someone more knowledgeable would need to speak to if that's feasible or not.
 
You’re getting top shelf advice.

My inclination also would be to hijack the torque sensor input.

Amberwolf can give you a better rundown of what’s likely involved, but I can give you an idea.

You’ll want to measure the torque signal range. It’s likely less than a hall throttle, which is 1-4ish. The torque signal range is perhaps 1-3ish, but could be less or more. You’ll need to match it well. Too high or low will surely trigger out of range errors.

Similarly for cadence. The power algorithm likely also incorporates it. If so, you’ll want to ensure the cadence input is always seeing high enough cadence to deliver maximum power, and not so high that it triggers an out of range error response. 2hz would be fine i.e. 120rpm. Mulltiplied by however many magnets the integral system incorporates.

An easy to implement approach to simulating the required cadence would be a flasher relay.

You could instead use magnets on spokes triggering a reed relay. However, the abnormally high cadence input that this would generate on high speed descents poses a potential problem. You don’t need throttle on fast descents, but you do need the controller to recover operation when cadence resumes to a normal range (without requiring a system reset to clear the error).
 
If you want to preserve the basic capability of the system (torque and cadence and multiple assist levels), but add a throttle, and it can't be done in the OEM system, then the "simplest" effective way I can think of is to replace the OEM controller/display with a Cycle Analyst v3 (to interpret the sensors and throttle and provide a throttle to run the controller), and a suitable controller to run the existing motor.


It's likely the baserunner or phaserunner could do it well enough (people have used these to run the BBSxx middrive systems), if you need something small and easily integrated into the appearance of the bike.


Assist levels can be done either with the CA's presets or with the Digiaux control, or with the PR or BR's level controls (via a separate typical ebike display type). If you don't like the look of the CA, it can either be placed somewhere out of sight, or even be modified to not use a display, and just use the tiny main CA board inside some other enclosed part of the bike, doing all settings changes via the serial-USB and computer-based setup program.


I don't remember if the battery has a custom BMS that won't operate without the OEM system (communications between them). If so, you could replace the BMS in it with a "generic" type, like the JBD smartbms that lets you monitor it via bluetooth on a phone app. (I think it is only that the bike won't operate without the OEM battery, the battery probably works with just it's main plus and minus connected).


That's just a general idea; you'd have a bunch of details to work out. ;)

For instance:

If for some reason the existing motor can't be used without it's original controller, you could use a hubmotor; the existing system would have to remain in place because your frame requires it if you want pedals.

If the built in torque sensor or cadence sensor can't be used without the OEM controller, you might have to use an external crankshaft-mounted cadence sensor; I don't know any good options for a torque sensor you could add easily. There are dropout-based torque sensors, but they require modifying your frame. (the CA can use a number of types of torque sensors; as long as it has a compatible voltage range the CA can be set to read).



Buuut: You could use all these things on a completely separate bike and preserve your existing bike to work the way you use it now, as a backup / spare, or to resell.

Whatever you do to modify the system is likely to involve very major changes to it, possibly even requiring cutting holes/etc in the drive unit, depending on exactly what you end up changing.
 
Thank you very much Epithemeus, glennb and amberwolf. I'm very grateful for your expertise and the time and effort you have put into your impressive responses. It does sound likely to be beyond my tech ability (except maybe with my son's help!). I'll let you know how I get on.....
 
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