Trek 850, Q100H Commuter. First E-Bike Build.

[boogieBeats]

Hi All,

I'm starting my first E Bike build. I have a trusty Trek 850 as my platform, and a Q100H from BMS Battery as my power train.

The primary goal for this bike is to make commute ring and errand running more fun. I'm a strong recreational rider, on and off road, and I'm not expecting this to function in that sense. It will most be ridden on flat-ish terrain, so maybe a single speed or1x7? Dunno.

The starting point


Motor: Q100H 260 RPM (Update: definitely 36 hole)
Controller: S06S
Method: PAS and a WOT button if I can figure out the wiring.

Questions for people familiar with the S06S:

The controllers wiring is different than the diagram shown on the BMS site. What I have is shown below with my best guesses. The controller seems to work because I'm reading 5 volts on the various read wires. I have not been able to get the motor spinning ( it's mounted to my wheel truing stand).

1). I'm worried about getting the hall sensors correct, I wired like colors from the motor leads to the controller. There no mention of the white wire in the documentation, should this be hooked up?

2)I forgot to add the LCD to my order cart from BMS. I'm ok buying a new one. In the mean time, I'd like to get the kit running if possible. Has anyone had results omitting the LCD setup and jumping the described leads?

BMSBattery harness link
https://bmsbattery.com/index.php?controller=attachment&id_attachment=19

My controller



Update!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I've gotten the system to work! Turns out waving the magnet over the hall sensor in the pas was NOT suffient. Mounting the pas on the bike and spinning the bob with a hand drill was suffient. The PAS works mostly as a switch at normal cadence, but I notice some subtlety for low cadence.

I ordered a 12 pole and 10 pole pas. I noticed that the pas cuts out after a certain rpm. My Voltmeter shows the signal saturating at 3.8V. Perhaps the controller ingnores this as a means of deterring a user made on off throttle.

Time to play around with experimenting with a WOT switch on what I presume is the throttle hook up. I want a turbo button for busy intersections.

 

[boogieBeats]

More pics.

Hair brained but works for testing.


Worlds scankiest truing stand.

 

[LewTwo]

... experimenting with a WOT switch....

 

[boogieBeats]

... experimenting with a WOT switch....

I want to rig up a momentary button to put full power to the hub motor. You know to get out of the way if I really need to. Otherwise I think I should be happy with the pas.

You were right about the hub being 36 hole.

That said, on further investigation, what I thought was the throttle connector turned out to be the E-brake. Clearly I've got to poke around more and find out what those mystery leads do. I have not seen any documentation to say either way.

Based on the readings with a voltmeter on the PAS, the signal to the controller seems to be 4 Volts. Tommorow I plan to pull my scope out to get a closer look at this signal, and if it makes sense, rig up a test circuit to reproduce the voltage and see if the motor turns.

I having a feeling without the LCD display, I'm going to be missing a few features.

 

[docw009]

WOT switch? Just jumper the throttle output wire to the throttle's 5 volt power. I did this by accident the other day when connecting a new throttle, and the wheel took off. The throttle varies this signal between 1 and 4 volts for speed. Going all the way to 5 volts won't hurt.

But really, that's just extra work for nothing. Rolling a twist throttle or pressing a thumb throttle is basically the same thing as pressing a button. The response of your bike will depend more on how much current your controller sends to the motor, and not on how fast the throttle signal changes.

WIth the S06 controller, I dunno. I have a bike with a small motor, and running it at 36V and a tiny elifebike controller, it had no throttle kick at all. I went to a bigger BMSBattery controller, S09 I think, and 48V. That works.

PAS signal is a string of short pulse/long pulse. Probably some sort of RZ code (been out of the industry for too long), because the controller ignores it if you pin the crank backwards.

 

[boogieBeats]

WOT switch? Just jumper the throttle output wire to the throttle's 5 volt power. I did this by accident the other day when connecting a new throttle, and the wheel took off. The throttle varies this signal between 1 and 4 volts for speed. Going all the way to 5 volts won't hurt.

I've still yet to find the throttle connector.

WIth the S06 controller, I dunno. I have a bike with a small motor, and running it at 36V and a tiny elifebike controller, it had no throttle kick at all. I went to a bigger BMSBattery controller, S09 I think, and 48V. That works.

PAS signal is a string of short pulse/long pulse. Probably some sort of RZ code (been out of the industry for too long), because the controller ignores it if you pin the crank backwards.

Good to know. I should make use of the shipping charge from BMSBATTTERY and get another controller when I order an LCD. I hear what your saying about the throttle, I understand a momentary switch will have no more effect on the output current of the controller than the throttle will. I guess it's just preference and a desire for minimal gadgets on the bars.

Do you know if anyone has successfully programmed one of these controllers via a tx/rx serial connection with a computer?

 

[motomech]

W/the early SO6S controller, when it was "pinned" to run w/out the display, it defaulted to #2 "power" limiting.

These are pages and pages of SO6S info here if you care to search.

 

[boogieBeats]

This thread has the decoded tx/rx serial communication.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=73471

From reading through, it seems like programming the controller via my computer should be possible. Certainly worth an attempt I think.