More thoughts and pics:
This is the ghost ring close up
Ever since I heard of them I wanted to use one on a bike but couldn't cuz every chainline always had interference with other stuff. (frame, batteries, etc., on CrazyBike2 primarily). Now, I can use one on here. PEDAL GEARING:
I forget exactly what teeth everything has, but I *think* it's a 34T front ring going back to a 24T rear on the center of the axle, then an 18T at the othe rend of the axle, to a 16T on the BMX freewheel just behind it. I don't know exactly what that works out to, but I know that on DT I could pedal relatively easily at a few MPH without motor power, as long as it was all flat terrain. On DT it was just the 34T front down to the 16T BMX freewheel, no intervening gears.
I can pedal this thing around at a few MPH, too, but once I get everything on there it's gonna be harder to get started cuz it's gonna be heavier. I'd like to add at least a 3speed hub to the chainline, preferably inside the driven rear wheel, but to do that i'd need to do some drilling on teh hubflanges, cuz I *think* those are 72-spoke BMX wheels, radially laced, and the 3speed IGHs I have are 36 (or 32?) hole hubs. If they are 36 and rim is 72, then I could just drill an extra hole between every existing one, and then it'd lace right up, cuz the flanges are similar enough diameter and spacing, I think.
I've never done that sort of thing, though considered it several times for different stuff, so it is an experiment I'm interested in trying.
The biggest catch is that the spoke nipples are so very close togehter that I don't think I can get my spoke tool in between them and still turn them enough to do the tensioning. I'd probably have to make a wrench for them.
Edit: a thorough recount using hte picture above comes up with 67 spokes. :/ Maybe I just can't count, though, cuz it can't be an odd number. STEERING / TRAIL
I measured teh trail and found a little over 6" of trail, which explains the flop-over wheel when let go.
I can fix it either by redoing the headtube angle, or by adding an extension to the fork that moves the axle point out about to where the front edge of the hubmotor itself is, presently. Then I'd have about 1/2" of trail.
But...having to do that means I then have the option of using the Fusin 26" *rear* wheel,
because I can weld what amounts to a rear-end frame for 26" wheel onto a steerer tube. The angles things will be at will probably prevent a regular fork from working, so I could use a rear suspension setup instead, like that from the 29er frame, built into a "fork" made to go into the threadless headset on the trike.
Now, there's probably no particularly practical reason to do this, since it would be WAY simpler just ot redo the headtube angle...but it might be interesting to do it the hard way.
For now, it'll just stay the way it is, using the front x5304 26" wheel in a regular fork (probalby switch out to the black 26" one with rim bosses though). ALTERNATE MOTORS
As noted above, if I build a rear setup onto a fork, I could use the rear Fusin geared motor on there.
Or, I could strip the Fusin out of the wheel, and use it to drive the chain via a sprocket bolted to the disc mount on it. It'd be a "funky" setup, cuz it would have to go to the right of the chain and just below the top of teh chainline, so the sprocket would drive that, pulling it along. It wouldn't freewheel directly when not motoring bu tonly pedallng (very rare case I hope), but the whole case would still freewheel on it's clutch inside the motor.
The same could be done with a DD motor, or even that powerchair motor.
Any of those methods only drives the left rear wheel, but I could modify the rear axle setup so ti drives *both* wheels, using a Peerless differential as Chalo described in the original Delta Tripper thread. I don't have one yet, or stuff to make one I don't think, but I could find one somewhere.
I do have a transaxle frrom the powerhcair that melted in the fire, and that may be a peerless style differential inside that--have to dig it out and open it up to see. (the motor on it doesn't seem tow ork, but I'm sure I can work out an input to it easily enough). BRAKES
These are the BMX brakes to be used, kind of how they'd be on there, though presently they'd interfere with the kennel corner so gotta reshape the frame a little to mvoe them.
and these are the cables Dogman got,
and a couple pics of one on the frame--first to the front wheel for disc brake/etc, and then to the rear for the bmx brakes. They wont' reach all teh way back, so I'll have to make cable splicers like what I used on the tiller, or at least one split to two brakes. There might be an option for the splitter using the BMX headtube rng-splitter, but I'm nto sure exactly how to do it without mounting a piece of tube on there to put it on and react against. I'll figure something out.
and the dual brake lever
And the donor BMX for the brakes, cuz they're a lot better versions (adjustabilitywise, and pads) than any of the other ones. Was considering turning this thing into a deathtrap with the x5304 as a rear 20" and the monster 18FET and a frontmounted battery, just to have around to show people what ebikes *could* do for fun, but I'll probalby enver use it anyway, or at least not enough to justify having all that stuff tied up in a bike I don't use, when I could use the power in the trike. CARGO AREA / DECK
On the cargo area, I chose to put all the tubing in line with the axle and other bits for strength, and because it puts all the weight (if on the bed of the cargo area) another inch or so lower than otherwise. So that also means the "transmission hump" sticks up and gets in the way on the kennel's front end, causing it to slant down. Simply putting a 2x4 (or whatever) at the back end between it and the deck lifts the back end of the kennel up enough to be about level. Would also need similar supports along it's base when there's a dog or heavy stuff in there, so it's pretty likely I'll just bolt the lifters to the base of the kennel itself, as they won't interfere with it's use on the trailer, either, AFAICS.
I'm probably going to make a plywood deck for the cargo area, since I have some around the right shape/size already. I was going to use thin aluminum, rivnutted to it, but it won't be as strong by far as the plywood, and it'll be noisier on bumpy road surfaces, whree the wood should help damp such things.
Also considered using 1x6 or 1x4 slats, as I also have some of each of those in short pieces, and leaving gaps between them that I can run cargo straps thru to the frame itself.
Havent' decided either way, yet.
I didn't get anything done yesterday othe rthan taking the pics above (dozed a lot off and on), or so far today (rain and drizzle all day so far). Since the drizzle is down to a sprinkle now, I'd be out there working on it anyway, but the rain is making my joints and bones all achey and hurty, so we'll see what happens later this afternoon (it's about midday right now) as it warms up to the low 60sF, or tomorrow, when there's a lot less chance of rain and it's supposed to be at least partly sunny.
(edit before submitting: I was adding in pics/etc to a post above, and typing this up, and dozed off and on thru both of those too...so now it's midafternoon already and still drizzling/sprinkling, so though I ache I still think I could do somethng if the rain would let up enough to use the electric tools out there....is tempting to dump stuff out of the shed DT had filled much of, to make room for working in there, but I could not do the welding there cuz the 220V cord won't reach, just the grinder/cutter/etc).
(edit again from dozing--now it's late afternoon, rain has stopped, is warmer out, so maybe after I eat I'll get a litle something done before it gets dark. More likely be tomorrow.)