The questions about screws through the gear-plate have, strickly speaking, little to do with the purpose of the thread.
None the less it is an interesting take on a non-existing problem AFAIK, because as mentioned the motor turns TOWARDS (up against) the downtube. I know that Luna sells a long "triangle" bracket for better mounting, but IMO you could just mount a metal band like on the Cyclone motor, or as I have been pondering, drill a hole or two in the cooling fins on the motor house and strap the motor to the downtube this way. Same, but different..
Back to main BBSHD tuning topics:
I am still waiting for the caps to arrive, but 15S/45A is still sooo much more engaging than my original 14S/30A, tho the bastard battery setup dips a little too much for my liking (ca. 6V drop under full load) . After all its BMS is only certified for 40A, and a 20Ah EIG cell piggybacks it as the 15th cell series.
And by the way, I have ordered the Grin Phaserunner + CA3 setup. It is brand new second hand but NOT set up for BBSHD, because not bought thru ERT. I expect a lot of cable/connector trouble and setup headaches, but certified top performance at 90 V / 50 A. 22S at 4.09 V/cell should be possible. Since this new controller is coming I have only the monetary value of the BBSHD's controller to lose, so to speak.
A very sweet spot with the BBSHD controller voltage could be the 18S at 4.15 V/cell for a system voltage of 74.7 V.
Benefits are NOT having to replace the 75 V FETs, as this operation seems vastly more difficult than just replacing the 63 V cap for 80 or 100 V version, and available battery capacity is about 95%. This is all provided that the display V mod works at higher voltages..
About the display voltage mod
, I have an idea I will give a try when upping the voltage above 15S / 63 V:
Simply use LED(s) as the display's voltage drop. As already mentioned a diodes forward voltage drop (Vf) is vastly less dependent on the display's power draw than a resistor is. The LED I have in mind could be one of these:
Whats good about them? They are easy to come by, and only one component is required for a drop of 6 to 9 V.
A Vf chart for the two LEDs is according to my testing:
mA: White Vf: Amber Vf:
20 8.48 8.09
30 8.58 8.18
40 8.67 8.27
50 8.75 8.33
60 8.84 8.39
100 9.00 8.70
A combination of one of these LEDs with a standard diode (Vf ca = 1.3 V) can get a close to 10 V drop, and this will make it easy to calculate a factual battery pack voltage. A string of white or blue 3 Vf LEDs could just as well be used to get to the desired voltage drop. You could even let the LED's light be used as forward or side lighting
The best would of course be to alter the BBSHD controller circuitry, as specified by the wizards here earlier on. Then the voltage dropper becomes redundant!