Lightweight build Q100 cst 201 at 14s

Show off your E-bike creation here.
leo99   100 W

100 W
Posts: 122
Joined: May 22 2014 3:10pm
Location: lausanne, VD, switzerland

Lightweight build Q100 cst 201 at 14s

Post by leo99 » Apr 01 2016 9:57am

Hi everybody,

I am starting a lightish and stealthy build for my commute to university :)
my project is to have a bike hopefully at 15kg or less to keep it a fully pedable bike. I am going to try to make a clean build and try to hid the electronic.
this is my bike i bought it for 300 swiss francs. it isn't the lightest being 12.3 kg but at that price it dosen't bother me to much. i took the front derailleur off it and i am at 11.5 kg now
download.jpg
download.jpg (8.07 KiB) Viewed 6000 times
I am going to go 1X9 for the transmission since it is lighter and i will have the motor plus i always wanted to ditch the front derailleur.
i am going to use a oval narrow wide chainring of 36 tooth with a 12-36 as cassette to hid the motor. i should top out at 40 km/h
here is the chainring:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ch/e ... prod131089

I am planning on going with :
the Q100c 201 from BMS https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/651-q1 ... e-kit.html
a good controller from em3ev 6fet 3077 http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route= ... duct_id=77
i want his since it takes 14s battery and i can set max amps and phase amps.
I am asking paul to make me a custom 14s2p (300wh) or 14s3p (450wh) battery from 30Q cells (3000mah). my commute round trip is 25 km with ups and downs so i am not sure about the size of the pack needed
I would like to run the motor at 14s at 13 amps / 25 phase amps. I want to set phase amps low since this motor has such a small thermal mass. The motor should top at around 37km/h by my calculations
I am still undecided where to put the controller and if i want to put the battery under the seat or in my backpack since it is a light battery pack (kg).I am more going for the backpack since i always have a backpack with me.

Please any comment or idea is appreciated

leo

Update: 20 april 2016
I installed a few things and I am waiting for my order from em3ev
fullpicbike.jpg
fullpicbike.jpg (47.44 KiB) Viewed 5234 times
Update: 12 mai 2018
This is pretty much the final version.
downloadfile-03.jpeg
downloadfile-03.jpeg (143.2 KiB) Viewed 951 times
Last edited by leo99 on May 12 2018 12:03pm, edited 3 times in total.
2011 hardtail scott BBS02 750w with em3ev 14ah 29e pack - sold
Stealthy q100cst 201 with 14s 6ah battery at 15 amps
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 4#p1170421

User avatar
motomech   1 GW

1 GW
Posts: 3177
Joined: Sep 11 2010 12:21am
Location: Tucson Az.

Re: Lightweight build

Post by motomech » Apr 01 2016 11:02am

The Grin/Infineon 25 Amper is one hard-hitting little controller, too hard for a Cutie, especially for a CST(20% narrower stator). You really want something in the 14 to 17 Amp range or you will have to "feather" the throttle to keep the motor from hammering.
Unless you want to go a different route, like the SO6S sine wave/LCD3 display from BMS Battery, you should add the Cycle Analyst V3, then you will also have the PAS option, really a must have for the type of bike you are building.
If that digs into your budget, you probably can save some money and go with the BMS Battery built wheel ASM. It's plenty strong enough for your lite-weight build. The only down-side with their wheel is the spokes don't stay shinny, like stainless steel spokes do. Check the shipping of bare motor vs ASM to see what you can save. You will need a 13 ga. spoke wrench, as the wheel will be loose. That doesn't matter, as the CST Cute requires severe dishing to center the rim. Also get the TA from BMS Battery, which you may or may not need(Hard to say witrhout seeing the drop-outs. If they are alloy, you probably should install at least one TA.
A 12T X 36T gear ratio is not going to get you to 40 Kph. You will need something like a 11t X 46t or 12T x 44T. I usually use 11T X 48T to get to 25 Mph.
The size battery pack you are thinking about will not fit "under the seat". With the open frame triangle it would be a mistake to put the battery anywhere else. Putting the battery in a back pack is a very bad idea, for reasons I don't to into here(search @ ES).I would just use a hardcase. The 11 Ah version should be good for 30 to 35 Kms, if you peddle along.
The controller will fit under the seat though.
Good luck.
Motomech

'03 Rocky Mountain Edge 2WD 260 Q100H frt and Ezee V1 rear 2 Elifebike 20A & 25A 9-FET controllers 12S/20Ah Multistar Lipo rear 5Ah Turnigy frt Luna Cyclops Extra lite Alex 24DM rims, Crazy Bobs run ghetto tubeless. 25 mph. Mean Well HLG-320H-54A
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=83430
'07 GT Idive 4 4.0, Q100C 201 14S LiPoly elifebike 9-FET 20A controller. 23 MPH.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=49691&p=1378484#p1378484

leo99   100 W

100 W
Posts: 122
Joined: May 22 2014 3:10pm
Location: lausanne, VD, switzerland

Re: Lightweight build

Post by leo99 » Apr 01 2016 11:35am

Hi motomech,
thanks for all the comments :wink:
my whole plan is for it to be as invisible as possible since in Switzerland it is illegal after 25km/h.
I do plan on ordering my motor bare and make my own wheel since the offset is so bad.
The Grin/Infineon 25 Amper is one hard-hitting little controller
I want my bike to be as discret as possible, the infineon controller would be in sadle bag and programmed at only 13 amps and 25 phase amps so not to over heat and not to over heat the motor as i wrote before.
you should add the Cycle Analyst V3, then you will also have the PAS option, really a must have for the type of bike you are building.
my main problem is i don't want a screen beacause of theft and stealth. In addition the ca3 would be very pricy.
A 12T X 36T gear ratio is not going to get you to 40 Kph
36/12= 3 3x100rpm = 300Rpm 300/8.1=37.5 km/h it is a bit slow but it seems the best compromise i found if i really want to peddle in a 1X9 set up. i would have gone higher but ther isnt't really narrow wide chainring above 36 oval or 38 round in bcd104.
The size battery pack you are thinking about will not fit "under the seat".
The 14s2p would be without the bms would be 14X8X6 cm so maybe max 18X10X10 with bms and everything that should fit without any problem in saddle bag but without the controller in the bag
Putting the battery in a back pack is a very bad idea
For the battery in the backpack. I always have a bag on me and i don't think a extra 2kg(4.5p pounds) would make a big difference.

leo
2011 hardtail scott BBS02 750w with em3ev 14ah 29e pack - sold
Stealthy q100cst 201 with 14s 6ah battery at 15 amps
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 4#p1170421

User avatar
motomech   1 GW

1 GW
Posts: 3177
Joined: Sep 11 2010 12:21am
Location: Tucson Az.

Re: Lightweight build

Post by motomech » Apr 01 2016 2:04pm

Well, if you are so fixed in the build parameters, why ask for comments?

But on two items, you are totally wrong!

There isn't one experienced E rider on this forum that thinks a battery pack in a back pack is a good idea.
1)It's dangerous! You will be basicly fastening a battery to your body. In the event of a separation of you from the bike(a crash), will the connector release? What if you land directly on the batteries? Are you going to wear flame-proof underwear?
2)Continuous dis-connection/connection is hard on any type of suitable connector. And what about pre-rush spark? If it occures, you will burn the connector elements and will need to install a pre-rush circuit.
3)weight, your est sounds low, but for the sake of argument, throw a 5 Lb. bar bell weight in your pack and ride around for a day and let us know how it feels.
Two small bricks of high-density lipo will fit into a small bag, either slung under the seat, or in one corner of the frame. Look at the new Multistar Lipo @ hobbyking.

PAS-To go without Pas for a pedal assist, even the simplest type of PAS, is moving backward into the last century. Aside from the greatly improved rider/motor interface, it would allow the elimination of the throttle entirely, greatly increasing the stealth.
You say you are budget constrained, well there are small 6 FET controllers in the 14 AMP range that have a PAS feature that cost less than $20. Why take a 72 Volt/25A capable $60 controller and then retrict it down to 14 Amps?

If you are serious about stealth, observe the bike's of Nader for some good ideas.

https://www.electricbike.com/mini-hub-motors/
Motomech

'03 Rocky Mountain Edge 2WD 260 Q100H frt and Ezee V1 rear 2 Elifebike 20A & 25A 9-FET controllers 12S/20Ah Multistar Lipo rear 5Ah Turnigy frt Luna Cyclops Extra lite Alex 24DM rims, Crazy Bobs run ghetto tubeless. 25 mph. Mean Well HLG-320H-54A
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=83430
'07 GT Idive 4 4.0, Q100C 201 14S LiPoly elifebike 9-FET 20A controller. 23 MPH.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=49691&p=1378484#p1378484

leo99   100 W

100 W
Posts: 122
Joined: May 22 2014 3:10pm
Location: lausanne, VD, switzerland

Re: Lightweight build

Post by leo99 » Apr 01 2016 3:47pm

I hadn't thought about the problem with the connection. I might go for under seat battery then. I was going to go with infineon controller because I don't know any other controller that is programmable and can take a 14s battery. My reluctance to go for pas is really because I don't really want a screen but it might be a good idea to go for a ca3 with another controller. I will think about it :D
2011 hardtail scott BBS02 750w with em3ev 14ah 29e pack - sold
Stealthy q100cst 201 with 14s 6ah battery at 15 amps
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 4#p1170421

User avatar
motomech   1 GW

1 GW
Posts: 3177
Joined: Sep 11 2010 12:21am
Location: Tucson Az.

Re: Lightweight build

Post by motomech » Apr 01 2016 6:49pm

Yes, what sm controller to use on a stealth build is often the subject of discussion here. Many guys do want to go with the sine wave SO6S from BMS B. for it's "torque imitation" PAS which limits current instead of speed and the fact that it is very quiet. I once ran a SO6S and LCD3 on a Cute CST and it was dead silent. So much so it was spooky. But the two-fold problem you mentioned are "road blocks". We generaly don't think the SO6S will live @ 52 plus Volts. There has been a mention of a 48 V version on Alibaba, but I haven't seen it, let alone tried it out. As for PAS, it can be run with the small "Button" displays which intsead of H.bar mounting, can be hidden in a bag. Just less features.
But the Infineons are great in their own right and Paul's are a great deal @ the price. I was just reading the feature list and I think it can come with the cruise feature. An adjustable cruise can be used much like PAS, especially on low-powered systems.
One sets the cruise speed a couple of mph lower that desired and then adds a couple of mph with the pedals. The best cruise would have a reostat and be variable, like Grin offers with for the CA V3. If not, you will have to hide a couple of switches somewhere, On/off and the 3-speed setting. Maybe you should ask Paul what he can do for you in this regard.
Generally, the use of cruise requires an Ebrake switch. But for the CST on 14 Amps, you can get by without one. The cruise will be defeated with a "blip" of the throttle and in an emergency, a firm squeeze of the brake will stop your low-powered motor. That's what I do with my CST on 17 Amps.
Other areas of a stealth build that I have learned are;
Keep the bike color dark so the cables blend in-looks like your bike is dark, good.
Shorten the cables to avoid any loops of extra length-You will already have a small issue here. The Cute motor will come with a 9-pin cable that will have to be "graphed to" the controller wires. The 9-pin cable is thin and water-proof and is what you want to use. I would just solder them directly to the controller wires(phase and Halls) after the cable has been cut to length(Use black shrink fit). Paul can match the batt. to controller wires. For max stealth, all wires, exposed connectors, etc should be blk., so a "fool-proof" type of connector should be use so polarity cannot be reversed. You might order an extra 9-pin cable from BMS Batt., they are good to have. They also have 3-way H-bar switches and you might consider a left-hand, half twist throttle since you will not be using a chain ring shifter. It's my perfered throttle.
Motomech

'03 Rocky Mountain Edge 2WD 260 Q100H frt and Ezee V1 rear 2 Elifebike 20A & 25A 9-FET controllers 12S/20Ah Multistar Lipo rear 5Ah Turnigy frt Luna Cyclops Extra lite Alex 24DM rims, Crazy Bobs run ghetto tubeless. 25 mph. Mean Well HLG-320H-54A
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=83430
'07 GT Idive 4 4.0, Q100C 201 14S LiPoly elifebike 9-FET 20A controller. 23 MPH.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=49691&p=1378484#p1378484

User avatar
friendly1uk   10 MW

10 MW
Posts: 2282
Joined: Mar 14 2013 1:18pm
Location: The not so UK

Re: Lightweight build

Post by friendly1uk » Apr 01 2016 9:17pm

1 on the front and 9 on the back will make some interesting chain angles. 9 are also going to be very close. You can afford much greater steps between the gears, as your now a more powerful cyclist. So much so, a lot of people rarely come off the small wheel. If you drop down from 9 you could perhaps switch too the H varient of the motor.

Batteries eat bags. They wear their corners through the cloth and tear off fastenings if you fall. Any tea leaf looking at your large bag pondering if it contains something of worth, will likely spot the wires. The weight is in a bad location. I'm really not fond of saddle bags for much. They pose more of a problem than a $10 looking speedo that don't unplug. Someone broke one off once and left it hanging. That's the worst I have heard of happening to an lcd display. The cheaper led displays offer no lcd which to me screams electronic controls not speedo. I wouldn't bother degrading your bike in that way.

A frame bag like mine holds 3.5L and costs about 3.5 dollars. You can view that in the yhginrut thread. There are top bar panniers that hold 5ah and a controller while offering a bit of weight distribution. Either would be a nicer ride.

You could look at the 09 (dolphin?) (new bottle?) battery with built in controller. It's 20A so a tad steep if you don't get the H model motor and insist on extra volts. I imagine a 36v system with a 230-260ish rpm motor getting 20A would suit. It's not stealth, but when you pull that battery off leaving just a bracket a motor and display, It's not worth nicking.


I spot ebikes by looking for hub motors myself. I must make a thread of that one day..
bmsbattery sent me broken and incorrect stuff, and won't even talk to me about it.

athletic91   100 W

100 W
Posts: 125
Joined: Jun 18 2013 9:39am
Location: Singapore

Re: Lightweight build

Post by athletic91 » Apr 02 2016 6:04am

The cute100c pushes the disc rotor very far left. Check that your frame has enough disc rotor clearance . That's why I gave up and went to v brakes
My light weight Commuter CUTE100CST
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewto ... 01#p839501

leo99   100 W

100 W
Posts: 122
Joined: May 22 2014 3:10pm
Location: lausanne, VD, switzerland

Re: Lightweight build

Post by leo99 » Apr 02 2016 9:03am

Thanks for all the advice,
I am now thinking that it might not be a bad idea SO6S and LCD3 but if I go that way that means I would have to go for the 328 at 36v. that would give me 14 amps at 36 volts so 504 watts which is less then I wanted to (50v at 13 amps 650 watts). But the idea of PAS at current control is appealing. my other build was a bbs02 that I only used PAS with so I do prefer it.
One problem I have now if I do go this way is my breaks are hydraulic and I would really prefer not to change them. Can I use a press button as to cut off motor ? like this one https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-parts/380- ... parts.html because I seem to remember somebody doing that.
Concerning the battery I will most likely put it under the seat because I really want to avoid people seeing that it is a ebike even when I am using it. they are pretty common and I would take it off every time.
thanks atheltic91 I hadn't thought about that problem i will have a look

I am still going to have to think about all of this for a while :wink:
2011 hardtail scott BBS02 750w with em3ev 14ah 29e pack - sold
Stealthy q100cst 201 with 14s 6ah battery at 15 amps
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 4#p1170421

User avatar
motomech   1 GW

1 GW
Posts: 3177
Joined: Sep 11 2010 12:21am
Location: Tucson Az.

Re: Lightweight build

Post by motomech » Apr 02 2016 1:17pm

Motomech

'03 Rocky Mountain Edge 2WD 260 Q100H frt and Ezee V1 rear 2 Elifebike 20A & 25A 9-FET controllers 12S/20Ah Multistar Lipo rear 5Ah Turnigy frt Luna Cyclops Extra lite Alex 24DM rims, Crazy Bobs run ghetto tubeless. 25 mph. Mean Well HLG-320H-54A
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=83430
'07 GT Idive 4 4.0, Q100C 201 14S LiPoly elifebike 9-FET 20A controller. 23 MPH.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=49691&p=1378484#p1378484

leo99   100 W

100 W
Posts: 122
Joined: May 22 2014 3:10pm
Location: lausanne, VD, switzerland

Re: Lightweight build

Post by leo99 » Apr 03 2016 2:48am

thanks motomech for all those links I had read already most of them especially the first one of athletic91 build :wink:

friendly1uk your option of a battery pack with controller isn't what I wanted but I am starting to like it a lot :D it would make a very clean bike
this one with a 18 amps controller inside could be great with a q100cst 328
https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-battery/77 ... ttery.html
I read the s-lcd3 manual and I saw that I can limit the amps so I could still go with the q100cst 201 and this batttery at 48v like I wanted in the beginning
https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-battery/77 ... ttery.html

athletic91 I read your build and I was wondering what sort of speed you got with your motor q100cst 201 at 48v without pedalling since I would like to hit 40km/h with me pedalling properly :)
2011 hardtail scott BBS02 750w with em3ev 14ah 29e pack - sold
Stealthy q100cst 201 with 14s 6ah battery at 15 amps
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 4#p1170421

User avatar
motomech   1 GW

1 GW
Posts: 3177
Joined: Sep 11 2010 12:21am
Location: Tucson Az.

Re: Lightweight build

Post by motomech » Apr 03 2016 3:33am

All Q100 versions performance values can be seen @ the Ebike CA sim.
Use MXUS FXO7 for 201
Use Outrider stand. for 260
And of course,
Q100 328 for 328.
I find the no-load values to be very accurate, although some riders see higher numbers.
201 in 26" on 48V - 21 mph(33.5 Kph)
260 in 26" on 48V - 24 mph(38.5 Kph)
328 in 26" on 48V - 24.5 mph(39 Kph)

But more importantly than top speeds, the sim, shows the problem w/ the 328 in a big wheel.
Observe the power curve in this combo. Top speed is limited by power(15 A controller), not rpm like the other two motors. This means the 328 does not reach it's best efficiency zone. Also, this situation trys to pull max. Amps from the controller almost all the time, causing it to overheat. That is why we recommend the 328 in a big whl. for only the fittest of riders with no serious hills to climb.
So what motor?
For 95% of riders the best all around single motor Cute application is the 260H @ 48V, but there is a roadblock that almost all of us Q100 users face. The 260 is not available in a Cst :cry:
Work-around to this problem;
1)201 CST @ higher Volts than 48V
2)328 CST in 24" or smaller wheel
3)260H in frt. whl.
4)dual motors
5)260 H rear w/ DNP free wheel
6)Q128CST, 328@48 V version, same motor speed range as 260 @ 36 V
I have used 1 thru 5 options, and #4 is best :lol: and #3 is second best.
FWD is very nice in low-power systems(less than 800 Watts and it can be very stealthy as well.
I would take #3 over #5 for assist biased build, but for power build, DNP free wheel is not that bad.
Motomech

'03 Rocky Mountain Edge 2WD 260 Q100H frt and Ezee V1 rear 2 Elifebike 20A & 25A 9-FET controllers 12S/20Ah Multistar Lipo rear 5Ah Turnigy frt Luna Cyclops Extra lite Alex 24DM rims, Crazy Bobs run ghetto tubeless. 25 mph. Mean Well HLG-320H-54A
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=83430
'07 GT Idive 4 4.0, Q100C 201 14S LiPoly elifebike 9-FET 20A controller. 23 MPH.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=49691&p=1378484#p1378484

User avatar
flangefrog   100 W

100 W
Posts: 299
Joined: Jun 26 2013 10:21pm
Location: Auckland, New Zealand

Re: Lightweight build

Post by flangefrog » Apr 03 2016 3:39am

I have bought a Kunteng (KT) 6FET sine wave controller and an S-LCD3 from AliExpress. Note the specs and photo show a 9FET but I think that's a mistake. The controller is similar to an S06S but says it's universal 36V or 48V compatible but I plan on modifying it to run on 52V (14S). This one will be used in a mid-weight cruiser but I plan on using the same controller with a Q100C and TDCM BB in a stealth build very similar to yours. I won't be building that for a while though so I'm not sure which voltage I will be using for it yet.

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/passion- ... 12686.html
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/36V-350W ... 62627.html

leo99   100 W

100 W
Posts: 122
Joined: May 22 2014 3:10pm
Location: lausanne, VD, switzerland

Re: Lightweight build

Post by leo99 » Apr 03 2016 2:29pm

flangefrog: thanks for the links :wink:


motomech: I am stuck with a problem, I do want a cassette or a single freewheel since I have heard terrible things about a 7 speed freewheel or more. I really don't want a front motor. I do want 35km/h at least. I like the integrated controller with bottle 08 battery. I am a bit scared of what I read about BMS battery.
I have been thinking about my option here are what I come up with.

1) the q100cst 328 with the sinewave controller integrated in bottle battery at 36v
2) the q100h 260 at 48v with the sinwave controller integrated at 48v with a single freewheel so single speed or the single freewheel with 3 front chainrings.

I am in good shape and I am 22 years old , I want this to be a pedal assisted bike.
2011 hardtail scott BBS02 750w with em3ev 14ah 29e pack - sold
Stealthy q100cst 201 with 14s 6ah battery at 15 amps
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 4#p1170421

User avatar
motomech   1 GW

1 GW
Posts: 3177
Joined: Sep 11 2010 12:21am
Location: Tucson Az.

Re: Lightweight build

Post by motomech » Apr 03 2016 4:40pm

I am stuck with a problem, I do want a cassette or a single freewheel since I have heard terrible things about a 7 speed freewheel or more. I really don't want a front motor.
That is the problem I was talking about, you really want a 260Q100CST, I want a 260Q100CST, we all want 260Q100CST :roll:
The 328 in a big wheel is not good for hills. My high school geography reminds me there are hills where you live, no?
Understand this, the "water bottle" battery is not as stealthy as you think. It is quite large and anyone with half a brain will know it is a battery and not a water bottle.
If I were you, I would go back to your original plan, with a couple of changes;
Q100CST 201
The Infineon 6-FET from Paul, programmed to 17 Amp w/ variable cruise.
and one of these two batteries from Paul;
http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route= ... uct_id=210
or
http://em3ev.com/store/index.php?route= ... uct_id=158

Both of these are 56V batteries and will give you 35 Kph plus, while the 201 motor will still be a good climber. And both of these battery configurations can be as stealthy as the faux water bottle if done right.

One last option with everything from BMS Battery would be;

https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-battery/67 ... ttery.html

and

https://bmsbattery.com/ebike-kit/768-q1 ... e-kit.html

The Q128 328 @ 48V is the same as 260 @ 36 V.
The Amps(15)are a little low for this motor, but at least it is the right motor speed. You may have to use a larger brake rotor and an aftermarket mount to move the brk. carrier higher to clear the wide motor.

or

https://bmsbattery.com/motor/505-bafang ... motor.html

Larger and heavier than the "mini's", will be visible behind brk. rotor. Excellent motor speed for 36-37Kph top speed. No brake mod.s needed.
Motomech

'03 Rocky Mountain Edge 2WD 260 Q100H frt and Ezee V1 rear 2 Elifebike 20A & 25A 9-FET controllers 12S/20Ah Multistar Lipo rear 5Ah Turnigy frt Luna Cyclops Extra lite Alex 24DM rims, Crazy Bobs run ghetto tubeless. 25 mph. Mean Well HLG-320H-54A
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=83430
'07 GT Idive 4 4.0, Q100C 201 14S LiPoly elifebike 9-FET 20A controller. 23 MPH.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=49691&p=1378484#p1378484

Cephalotus   1 kW

1 kW
Posts: 496
Joined: Jun 18 2012 12:27pm

Re: Lightweight build

Post by Cephalotus » Apr 03 2016 5:29pm

I have an old aluminium bike with steel fork and 1x 9 gearigs. 38Z in front (from the Alfine system) and 9x 11-34 in the rear. XT shifters modified to shift 2 gears up in one step. Works very fine for me since thousands of kms and since some years.

I have three front wheels, one without motor, one with Cute 85 201rpm, one with Cute 85 320rpm.

I tried all of them and ended with using only the Cute 85 201rpm. The motor just weights 1,6kg and there is no significant drag, so I just keep it in place when I ride without a battery. The 320rpm motor was nice, too and I was able to ride above 40km/h, but I have a street legal 45km/h pedelec now. The 38:11 gearig was ok for that. The 38:34 is fine for typical grades over here, maybe not so nice if you have to ride 15% or steeper for longer distances.

I use an old KU-63 controller and thinned the shunt, so it effeictivly is now a 11A controller.

Those Cute motors have quite delicate gears. In once replaces the screws the hold the motor together (screws are from very bad quality steel, I destroyed more than one head and had to drill them) and I replces the main gearings with high quality ones....

Battery is a Sanyo 10s3p with 36V and 6Ah (useable 5,5Ah some years ago, now there are 5Ah usabele. No BMS, no drifting, all cells are perfectly in balance). Battery is in a PET bottle and weights 1,4kg.

It's not stealty and it does not look cool. I WANT it to look as cheap as possible, because bike theft is a bad problem over here...
pedelec2_1.jpg
pedelec2_1.jpg (97.75 KiB) Viewed 5714 times
pedelec2_2.jpg
pedelec2_2.jpg (108.13 KiB) Viewed 5714 times
I modified the controller that the throttle only works when the pedals are moving (for legal reasons) and cut off most of the connectors...

Bike runs well in any weather. Cute 85 motor tends to suck in some moisture under cetain conditions, so better store the bike in a dry area. I filled the chines thumb throttle with grease, so it also works well in rain.
pedelec_2_ku63mod.jpg
pedelec_2_ku63mod.jpg (147.2 KiB) Viewed 5714 times
---

I replaced the bottle holder with a stronger one.

the PET bottle didn't last all the time, I replaced it after 3 years with just another one.

I used Anderson connectors, but wouldn't recommend that. I woud use XT90s instead because of the anti spark feature. I need to replace the connectors every 1-2 years and this is with just a 10s / 36V battery.

The PVC power cables on the controller broke after some years. I was lucky that there was no short connection. I added a 30A fuse to the battery just in case.
I replaced the cables with silikon coated wires that are flexible.

Once the motor missed some hall signals and made some crazy sounds. The cable from controller to the motor got a bad connectio at the plug near the motor. Just put it together again and everything was fine again.

I replaced the screws in the motor (using stainless steel screws with torx heads) and I also replaced the Chinese bearings with SKF bearings.

The HS11 hydraulik rim brakes are very nice and very reliable with such a "city pedelec".

I mainly use 50mm wide tires (Schwalbe Marathon supreme) at 2,0-2,5bar for a more comfortable ride....

There is no hub dynamo, so I use battery powered lights.

Weights is around 14.5kg (afair) without battery and without the lock, but incl carrier, fenders and lights.

Just a cheap and cheap looking lightweight pedelec that rides also very well without motor assist.

leo99   100 W

100 W
Posts: 122
Joined: May 22 2014 3:10pm
Location: lausanne, VD, switzerland

Re: Lightweight build

Post by leo99 » Apr 04 2016 12:58pm

thanks for taking the time to show us your build Cephalotus :) I will be careful about my choice of connector.

I think I am going to go to my first idea then q100cst 201 at 50v with 6fet 3077 infenion controller. I really like the stealthiness of having a custom battery under the seat. so I will ask paul from em3ev to make me a 14s2p battery 50v 6ah. it should give me a range of 25 km if I pedal well hopefully.
2011 hardtail scott BBS02 750w with em3ev 14ah 29e pack - sold
Stealthy q100cst 201 with 14s 6ah battery at 15 amps
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 4#p1170421

leo99   100 W

100 W
Posts: 122
Joined: May 22 2014 3:10pm
Location: lausanne, VD, switzerland

Re: Lightweight build

Post by leo99 » Apr 08 2016 12:28pm

Hi guys,
So i started ordering some stuff but i am not sure about the dimensions of the q100cst hub motor to order my spokes from em3ev since he does custom sizes with sapim spokes 13G. I am using ebikes.ca spoke calculator so if you could help me it would be great.
These are the dimensions I found on bms battery are they correct ?
Flange Diam. 109mm
Flange Spacing 42mm
Dishing Offset ? mm
Hole Diam. 3mm

Should I single cross or double cross ?

léo
2011 hardtail scott BBS02 750w with em3ev 14ah 29e pack - sold
Stealthy q100cst 201 with 14s 6ah battery at 15 amps
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 4#p1170421

User avatar
flangefrog   100 W

100 W
Posts: 299
Joined: Jun 26 2013 10:21pm
Location: Auckland, New Zealand

Re: Lightweight build

Post by flangefrog » Apr 08 2016 12:38pm

I'm not certain of the dimensions, I'm on a mobile so can't easily look them up. Double cross will be best. I would order Sapim Strong 13g/14g single butted spokes.

leo99   100 W

100 W
Posts: 122
Joined: May 22 2014 3:10pm
Location: lausanne, VD, switzerland

Re: Lightweight build

Post by leo99 » Apr 15 2016 4:54am

Hi guys,
Just quick update I received my motor by bms all is good. I tried to put it in the dropouts and it fit with out any problem the disc brake even seems to be perfectly aligned. I'll upload the picture this weekend.
I also received some stuff for my bike. :) I ll install most of it and will upload a picture too. I just sent a order for my battery, controller and spokes to em3ev today, so I will have to wait a while to build my wheel.
I'll keep you guys posted
2011 hardtail scott BBS02 750w with em3ev 14ah 29e pack - sold
Stealthy q100cst 201 with 14s 6ah battery at 15 amps
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 4#p1170421

leo99   100 W

100 W
Posts: 122
Joined: May 22 2014 3:10pm
Location: lausanne, VD, switzerland

Re: Lightweight build

Post by leo99 » Apr 17 2016 12:32pm

hi so here are the pics of the hub motor.

I was really suprised how small the motor was. I knew the size but when you have it in hand it suprised me
hubpic.jpg
hubpic.jpg (17.86 KiB) Viewed 5326 times
hubinbike.jpg
hubinbike.jpg (29.37 KiB) Viewed 5326 times
As you can see the disc brakes seem to be well aligned
hubdisc.jpg
hubdisc.jpg (26.94 KiB) Viewed 5326 times
I still have to open my shippement from chainreactioncycle and put the non-electric parts in place.
I will upload a picture when I done this week.
2011 hardtail scott BBS02 750w with em3ev 14ah 29e pack - sold
Stealthy q100cst 201 with 14s 6ah battery at 15 amps
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 4#p1170421

LewTwo   100 kW

100 kW
Posts: 1056
Joined: Apr 08 2014 4:46pm
Location: Houston, Texas
Contact:

Re: Lightweight build

Post by LewTwo » Apr 17 2016 1:28pm

leo99 wrote:Hi guys,
So i started ordering some stuff but i am not sure about the dimensions of the q100cst hub motor to order my spokes from em3ev since he does custom sizes with sapim spokes 13G. I am using ebikes.ca spoke calculator so if you could help me it would be great.
These are the dimensions I found on bms battery are they correct ?
Flange Diam. 109mm
Flange Spacing 42mm
Dishing Offset ? mm
Hole Diam. 3mm

Should I single cross or double cross ?

léo
You should verify those dimensions on the physical hub.
1, 2, 3 vs 4 cross mostly a matter of personal preference and aesthetics.
If this is your first attempt at building a wheel then you might want to consider getting Roger Musson's book.
Image
http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php
Last edited by LewTwo on Apr 17 2016 5:13pm, edited 1 time in total.
The more I learn the more obvious the immensity of my ignorance becomes.
Weight Wennie E-Bike https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 3#p1173723
Shaft Drive Grocery Getter https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... =6&t=90718
...and thanks to Justin!

leo99   100 W

100 W
Posts: 122
Joined: May 22 2014 3:10pm
Location: lausanne, VD, switzerland

Re: Lightweight build

Post by leo99 » Apr 17 2016 3:00pm

I wanted the dimensions before I got my motor so I could order quicker but I did end hub waiting for the hub motor to mesure it.

Thanks for the link it will be my first lacing :)
2011 hardtail scott BBS02 750w with em3ev 14ah 29e pack - sold
Stealthy q100cst 201 with 14s 6ah battery at 15 amps
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 4#p1170421

leo99   100 W

100 W
Posts: 122
Joined: May 22 2014 3:10pm
Location: lausanne, VD, switzerland

Re: Lightweight build

Post by leo99 » Apr 20 2016 2:41pm

Hi guys here are a few pics of my bike with a few thing I changed from basic version.
I did a quick trip with the bike and I am quite happy with the oval ring :D I am still thinking about lowering my handlebar
Attachments
fullpicbike.jpg
fullpicbike.jpg (47.44 KiB) Viewed 5222 times
chainringbike.jpg
chainringbike.jpg (37.89 KiB) Viewed 5222 times
2011 hardtail scott BBS02 750w with em3ev 14ah 29e pack - sold
Stealthy q100cst 201 with 14s 6ah battery at 15 amps
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewt ... 4#p1170421

User avatar
Chalo   100 GW

100 GW
Posts: 7307
Joined: Apr 29 2009 11:29pm
Location: Austin, Texas

Re: Lightweight build

Post by Chalo » Apr 20 2016 3:02pm

leo99 wrote:I am still thinking about lowering my handlebar
Just move the spacers from underneath the stem to above the stem, and see how you like it.
This is to express my gratitude to Justin of Grin Technologies for his extraordinary measures to save this forum for the benefit of all.

Post Reply