Eaton APR48-3G 1.8kW Light Compact Charger PSU

honya96 said:
Simply use windows patch tool to create multiple hex files named like 10A,20A.. copy to phone and flash by ZFlasher.. follow instructions for Windows first and then it's easy :wink: I used some cheapest usb programmer from eBay and OTG cable
Click to expand...

Ah, Ok was not clear if OTG will work.

But yes i Agree a Harware solution viy switch or poti would be great
 
notger said:
honya96 said:
Simply use windows patch tool to create multiple hex files named like 10A,20A.. copy to phone and flash by ZFlasher.. follow instructions for Windows first and then it's easy :wink: I used some cheapest usb programmer from eBay and OTG cable
Click to expand...

Ah, Ok was not clear if OTG will work.

But yes i Agree a Harware solution viy switch or poti would be great
Click to expand...

I guess I should be able to do it when I get my spare unit.. but it will be easier for someone more experienced to find current measuring device and trick it someway.

I think better to have set max by EEPROM And trick it to get lower.

For now programming by phone is good.
 
Allex said:
Eaton APR48-3G Rectifier Module (battery charger)

Very popular due to its size/weight/power ratio.
Can be obtained through me or ebay:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=62545&p=934824#p934824
Weight is just a bit under 1.5Kg
Pretty quiet compared to others as well.

Nominal Voltage: 48V
Adjustable Voltage Range: 43 to 57.5V
Rated Output Power:
100Vac: 900W
120Vac: 1100W
208-240Vac: 1800W
Current Limit: Factory set to 37.5A
Datasheet:
http://myafromusic.com/dibujo/pdf/apr48-3g_f_datasheet_english.pdf

From left: Eaton, Adaptto Max-e, 1500W Cherokee CAR1248FP
DSC04713.JPG

Wiring:
DSC06987.JPG

Using powerful iron really helps and you dont have to remove the cover to solder on the wires.
DSC06980.JPG

Charging trough Adaptto Controller with 30A Coil
DSC04697.JPG

This is how much it drains from the wall at 21A charging current
DSC04699.JPG

If you want to use it as a CV charger(skip this guide if you use Adaptto)
(The text and pictures are taken from another Board - thanks to KrOeNeN)
You need to modify it by cutting two of the traces and place a resistor on one of them.
Firstly, drill carefully out the pop rivets to gain access to the insides.
Slide out the board and flip it over.

First trace(marked with red cross) is for over-voltage protection. If you do not cut it, the PSU will shut down when voltage goes above 57.5-57.6V.
If your fully charge voltage do not exceed the 57.5V you don't need to cut it.
132305067.jpg

Second trace controls the DC Voltage. It goes directly to the second control board. Same here, you need to cut it and solder on a resistor.
132305069.jpg

Example below shows how to make it to a 14S charger, around 58.5-58.8V
Here is a 1,5 kOhm that makes 58.4 on the DC tabs. Or you can add potentiometer to adjust the voltage gradually.
132305075.jpg

Result:
132305076.jpg
Click to expand...

Hi alex can i know where is the line for input 220v ac?
 
Electronice said:
Hi alex can i know where is the line for input 220v ac?
Click to expand...


You mean where to solder the 3 cables of the power socket?

Watch this picture:

From the left to the right: Ac input, ac input, ground, output charger negative, output charger positive

To the two "ac inputs": Doesn´t matter if you solder (from left to right) blue, brown or also brown and at the right blue as it is ac, not dc.
file.php
 
Guys, I cant get over 70v exactly, by the potenciometer mod. Is there any way to get 84v out of it? I read in this topic that someone got 75v.

Edit: I have changed to 100v capacitors.
 
agniusm said:
Went through a thread but could not find for certain. Could two of these be hooked in series for 72V system (20S)
Click to expand...

search in this thread for my posts.
i managed to get the voltage of an eaton low to 40,5 volts. with an combination of programmer and pot -mod.

Just with programmer mod you can just go down to 43 volts with would be too much for yor use.
20s = 82-84 fully charged.

Using two in parallel will probably work too, with potentially changing the psu caps cause 84 volts might exceed thrir limits.

Greets notger
 
notger said:
agniusm said:
Went through a thread but could not find for certain. Could two of these be hooked in series for 72V system (20S)
Click to expand...

search in this thread for my posts.
i managed to get the voltage of an eaton low to 40,5 volts. with an combination of programmer and pot -mod.

Just with programmer mod you can just go down to 43 volts with would be too much for yor use.
20s = 82-84 fully charged.

Using two in parallel will probably work too, with potentially changing the psu caps cause 84 volts might exceed thrir limits.

Greets notger
Click to expand...

Yeah, but was actually been shifted to over 84V? Swapping caps is easy if it can do it. I would very much like to have 1 psu for the size but i thing 80 is a long shot
 
What about this boost converter?

https://www.banggood.com/DC10-60V-30A-1500W-To-12-90V-Boost-Converter-Step-Up-Power-Supply-Module-p-1076169.html
 
atarijedi said:
What about this boost converter?

https://www.banggood.com/DC10-60V-30A-1500W-To-12-90V-Boost-Converter-Step-Up-Power-Supply-Module-p-1076169.html
Click to expand...

Do you mean as a separate stage to boost the DC output voltage from the Eaton? If so, I'd say there are at least two issues.
1) Now you are carrying two items which negates some of the benefit of the Eaton being lightweight.
2) The maximum input amperage with voltages from 31-60v is 25 amps. So you'll need to input 60 volts if you want the full 1500 watt output.

That said, I run essentially the same converter on my bike to boost my batteries from 36V to 54v on my 48v based system. It has been reliable and relatively efficient so far.

For those who know about this Eaton power supply, are the units that cost about $80-90 on ebay legit Eaton units, or are they knockoffs of a lower quality? There seems to be a wide price range for these things of roughly $100-300 which makes me suspicious.
 
wturber said:
For those who know about this Eaton power supply, are the units that cost about $80-90 on ebay legit Eaton units, or are they knockoffs of a lower quality? There seems to be a wide price range for these things of roughly $100-300 which makes me suspicious.
Click to expand...

Could it be that those more expensive units are the "ES" version with higher efficiency?
They have a different front cover with only one fan and normally cost around 300$

Allex said:
I think Luke uses them in series
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=83099&p=1226609#p1226609
Click to expand...
Yep, but he is using the 2000W APR48-ES version.

Some time ago one guy here was selling some of those 48V Energy Safer versions quite cheap (i think it was 120USD new) and i bought one.
When i took off the cover for a look there was a small SMD cap flying around (must have gotten teared off during assembly from screw notch in the sidewall) which i could solder back in place, and i also noticed that some large caps had been left out.
But i am not sure if the thing with the missing caps would be an issue or not. It could also be that they are simply not neccessary on the 48V version and they just reserved the place for the 24V version or others.

zDLPzy.jpg


pMv5wE.jpg
 
madin88 said:
wturber said:
For those who know about this Eaton power supply, are the units that cost about $80-90 on ebay legit Eaton units, or are they knockoffs of a lower quality? There seems to be a wide price range for these things of roughly $100-300 which makes me suspicious.
Click to expand...

Could it be that those more expensive units are the "ES" version with higher efficiency?
They have a different front cover with only one fan and normally cost around 300$
Click to expand...

The pictures show two fans and no mention of ES. But if just below $100 isn't an unusual price, knowing that helps.
 
agniusm said:
Yeah, but was actually been shifted to over 84V? Swapping caps is easy if it can do it. I would very much like to have 1 psu for the size but i thing 80 is a long shot
Click to expand...

I'm not totally sure if i understadn those written lines correct,....

I was bored today and tried it on my !Eaton EPR (900Watt-Version)! -> without load

EEprom-> set to 40 Volts (but it will just allow 43 Volts minimum)

so...lhe lowes i can go with my additional Potentiometer-Mod ist 40,6 Volts
The highest is 90 Volts and potentially above, but i just had a quick look how high and stopped at 90 cause i was afraid caps could pop

I clinched my EPR housing together again so i do not want to open it again to see what Caps are built in, but i Guess it will be 63Volt Caps

i guess you read the "introduction" to this thread

First trace(marked with red cross) is for over-voltage protection. If you do not cut it, the PSU will shut down when voltage goes above 57.5-57.6V.
If your fully charge voltage do not exceed the 57.5V you don't need to cut it.
Click to expand...

I do not have my programmer by hand now, so I'm not sure if i would be able to programm the Voltage higher than 58 Volts.
Like i said with my pot-mod its possible to crank teh voltage up really high (> 90Volt )
 
I wanna bring this up once again:

Any ideas or experience making a resistor-pot mod for changing the output Current ??
like the output voltage mod, just for current.

The reason for it would be to make a slow and fast charging switch to the Eaton

greets
Notger
 
notger said:
agniusm said:
Yeah, but was actually been shifted to over 84V? Swapping caps is easy if it can do it. I would very much like to have 1 psu for the size but i thing 80 is a long shot
Click to expand...

I'm not totally sure if i understadn those written lines correct,....

I was bored today and tried it on my !Eaton EPR (900Watt-Version)! -> without load

EEprom-> set to 40 Volts (but it will just allow 43 Volts minimum)

so...lhe lowes i can go with my additional Potentiometer-Mod ist 40,6 Volts
The highest is 90 Volts and potentially above, but i just had a quick look how high and stopped at 90 cause i was afraid caps could pop

I clinched my EPR housing together again so i do not want to open it again to see what Caps are built in, but i Guess it will be 63Volt Caps

i guess you read the "introduction" to this thread

First trace(marked with red cross) is for over-voltage protection. If you do not cut it, the PSU will shut down when voltage goes above 57.5-57.6V.
If your fully charge voltage do not exceed the 57.5V you don't need to cut it.
Click to expand...

I do not have my programmer by hand now, so I'm not sure if i would be able to programm the Voltage higher than 58 Volts.
Like i said with my pot-mod its possible to crank teh voltage up really high (> 90Volt )
Click to expand...

OK. Now that I like. Is it enough to do a pot mod or does it has to be programmed as well?
Would the current decrease with upped voltage? I guess for safe operations caps need to be swapped.
 
agniusm said:
OK. Now that I like. Is it enough to do a pot mod or does it has to be programmed as well?
Would the current decrease with upped voltage? I guess for safe operations caps need to be swapped.
Click to expand...

Please read this thread from teh beginning.
Not sure who, and if all my infos are right but someone charged with 70 Volts or so and found out that current will not decrease, so teh PSU was delivering like 2400 Watts, witch might not be too healty in the long term.

Before swapping teh caps it would be helpful to find out witch caps are buil tin the PSU anyway, and i cannot guarantee that JUST swapping some big Caps will make the PSU run stabile and longlasting - just to have i said.
 
It was cheap anyway, like 90 bucks.
Edit. I think i can program it to 20A and it will be just below 1800w at 84V
BTW, what pot did you use?
 
agniusm said:
It was cheap anyway, like 90 bucks.
Click to expand...

90 european or Us Bucks ?
and from where did you get it that cheap ?

agniusm said:
BTW, what pot did you use?
Click to expand...

I just used any 2 speed/turn/gang - Pot ? (not sure how its called in english) hanging around in my workshop.
no specific Ohm, does not matter, and 2 turn or even more is nice to make a really smooth adn exact Voltage setting possible
 
agniusm said:
90usd. But the resistance of potentiometer (pot) should matter.
Click to expand...

I'm not in or near my workshop now, but i guess it was a 10k pot.
But it really does not matter until the pot is not justa single ohm or so, cause otherwise it just changes the scaling of your Voltage setting 0 -> or -> maximum.
 
Got the psu. Have added output for programming and pot. Sadly pot only allows to crank up to 67v.
Will need to program it higher and then see if it will make any difference. Here are the mods:

dVsNuuW.jpg


JyqhuPY.jpg


UKvb3Sq.jpg


o75shtA.jpg


B1YF9IH.jpg


Btw, found some caps in my electronics scrap box, 470uF, 200V but they are bigger and wont fit unless cabled and hot glued somewhere flat
 
agniusm said:
only allows to crank up to 67v.
Click to expand...

How low could you set the output voltage minimum ? (with both mods pot and programmer ?)

greets
Notger
 
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