raylo32
100 kW
The other thing about longer cranks you missed here is that they work better for tall folks and bikes are generally supplied with cranks in proportion to frame size. Even high end racing bikes for racers. With my 35.5" cycling inseam (measured to the ground) I have ridden 175s on my pedal bikes including racing bikes for a very very long time. No way that I should be riding the same size cranks that a 5'4" woman would. I have no trouble spinning those up to warp speed when necessary. I plan to get the Shimano 175 cranks for my TSDZ2 e-bike.
Not sure what you mean by the motor pulling on the bike and brakes whilst stopped since you don't have brake switches. The motor provides no power unless it sees torque from pedaling. The only time I see the brake switches being necessary would be if you had a throttle (which you don't) and had that pressed (or if it was stuck) at the same time as the brakes. The brake switches override the throttle.
I use pieces of iron or copper pipe as cheaters on the ends of my bike bottom bracket tools when they are stuck. That gets em off, unless they are fully corrosion welded into the frame. Sometimes a *little* heat helps... but never on a CF bike.
I am about to be retired, too.
Not sure what you mean by the motor pulling on the bike and brakes whilst stopped since you don't have brake switches. The motor provides no power unless it sees torque from pedaling. The only time I see the brake switches being necessary would be if you had a throttle (which you don't) and had that pressed (or if it was stuck) at the same time as the brakes. The brake switches override the throttle.
I use pieces of iron or copper pipe as cheaters on the ends of my bike bottom bracket tools when they are stuck. That gets em off, unless they are fully corrosion welded into the frame. Sometimes a *little* heat helps... but never on a CF bike.
I am about to be retired, too.
Retrorockit said:One is the longer cranks available from Shimano in the E600 series 175mm which is what I'm running on my BBSHD. It not only produces more torque it also favors a slower cadence. There is a pedaling style that goes with long cranks. Racers scoff at it because it inefficient due to having to raise and lower the whole leg a greater distance but for false flats or short rises it's a lot of fun to maintain your cadence when everyone else is dropping a gear and spinning like mad. It involves dropping the heel on the upstroke so you can start the power stroke sooner. The longer cranks give you room to do this. Then extend the ankle across the bottom of the stroke and keep the power going around the bottom. The longer cranks cost you power very stroke due to raisng the leg higher on the upstroke. This involves the calf muscles more but very few people do this naturally or continuosly. I learned about the inefficiency when I tried a set of 180mm cranks.
My take on the need for a delay with no brake switches is it seems to me with no cadence or speed sensor shutoff the motor is pulling againt the brakes the whole timeyou're stopped. This can't be good for the motor or the battery. I also wonder if an extra magnet or 2 would help with the walk assist sensitivity?
Here's a link to my BBSHD project if anybody wants to look at my setup. Nothing TSDZ2 there of course. There's a summary near the end if the whole thing doesn't interest you.
https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/main-forum/diy-discussion/73463-gary-fisher-solsitice-bbshd-project