New "TSDZ2 Torque Sensor Central Motor"

[xelder]

Hi,

I don't have a speed sensor!!

In the thread below "amberwolf" says it can be the BMS cutting off...but it's strange that it only cuts with the throttle!!

TSDZ2 Strange error code

Hi, I have been riding my prebuilt TSDZ2 bike for a year, and last week it had troubles turning on, showing error code E13, which I cannot find any information about. And yesterday, the bike no longer turns on, the display gives no feedback at all. The battery seems fine, so its hard to tell...

endless-sphere.com

Since my voltmeter it's damaged I have to wait and measure like he mentioned!!

Thanks any way and if you remember anything else that might be causing this issue....please give a feedback!!

I really need to make this motor work...

Cheers

 

[Retrorockit]

I came across something on another project that might help if someone wants to make an upgraded TSDZ2 pedal shaft.
I needed some 134mm square taper BB for a front freewheel mod. The ones I found instead of being drilled for a bolt, were threaded for a shouldered nut. Maybe that would help?

 

[fiskfiskersen]

Can anyone help me on ideas on how to throubleshoot my newly installed tsdz2 kit with the vlcd5. I have installed tsdz2 kits (other kits) three times before without any major problems. On my latest build (with a new kit - that has been on my shelve for a couple of years..) the motor is very uneven in applying assist and actually too powerful no mater the assist level.
I feels like it applies only power when you press down on the pedals (in that very specific millisecond) i.e. when pedaling at normal kadance I can hear and feel the motor go up in power every time either the left or right pedal arm is being pressed down. Very powerful with every pedal stroke. It seems like what would happen if the tourqe sensor was over sensitive or if some sort of smoothening delay in the software wasn't there.

I have tried:
*Disconnecting speed sensor and light cables
*Physically seperating the power cable from battery to motor from the controller cable (in case of electrical noise inferring with the tourqe sensor signal)
* Changing the A (amp) setting down to 1 - (no effect as others also reports)
*Changing assist level - it does have somewhat of an effect but the problem is still there at the lowest assist level.


And yes, I don't press the pedals while turning it on

Anyone have tried something similar?

 

[pxl666]

Can anyone help me on ideas on how to throubleshoot my newly installed tsdz2 kit with the vlcd5. I have installed tsdz2 kits (other kits) three times before without any major problems. On my latest build (with a new kit - that has been on my shelve for a couple of years..) the motor is very uneven in applying assist and actually too powerful no mater the assist level.
I feels like it applies only power when you press down on the pedals (in that very specific millisecond) i.e. when pedaling at normal kadance I can hear and feel the motor go up in power every time either the left or right pedal arm is being pressed down. Very powerful with every pedal stroke. It seems like what would happen if the tourqe sensor was over sensitive or if some sort of smoothening delay in the software wasn't there.

I have tried:
*Disconnecting speed sensor and light cables
*Physically seperating the power cable from battery to motor from the controller cable (in case of electrical noise inferring with the tourqe sensor signal)
* Changing the A (amp) setting down to 1 - (no effect as others also reports)
*Changing assist level - it does have somewhat of an effect but the problem is still there at the lowest assist level.


And yes, I don't press the pedals while turning it on

Anyone have tried something similar?

stock fw ?

 

[fiskfiskersen]

stock fw ?

Yes

 

[Elinx]

.... It seems like what would happen if the tourqe sensor was over sensitive or if some sort of smoothening delay in the software wasn't there.
.

If you have the Vlcd5 you can check the Torque range with hidden settings.
Te0 and Te1 are the same value without load on the pedals, Te1 will increase with load.

 

[pxl666]

I'd also check If bearing in nylon is not slipping . it might get rusty

 

[fiskfiskersen]

If you have the Vlcd5 you can check the Torque range with hidden settings.
Te0 and Te1 are the same value without load on the pedals, Te1 will increase with load.

Ok - i haver never worked with the "hidden settings" but i will give it a go. What should i look out for in te0 and te1? (If i understand correct te0 is the tourqe signal at zero tourqe and te1 is the current reading). What is a reasonable range?

 

[fiskfiskersen]

I'd also check If bearing in nylon is not slipping . it might get rusty

I don't think so, completely new and if anything to much power/to fast response.

 

[fiskfiskersen]

If you have the Vlcd5 you can check the Torque range with hidden settings.
Te0 and Te1 are the same value without load on the pedals, Te1 will increase with load.

I can't seem to find the te and te1 settings. Software version is 5.1 (last item in the hidden menu). One manual that I found states that is should hold "i" and "power" for 10 seconds (instead of 3secons). But that just turns it off again. Hmm

 

[dameri]

Lights stop working. Which pins there should be voltage (6V?)

 

[dameri]

Lights stop working. Which pins there should be voltage (6V?)
View attachment 350978

I found these:

Tongsheng Y Splitter. Lights. Pinout?

tsdz2/pinout.md at master · hurzhurz/tsdz2

 

[ebike_builder]

Hi all,
I have a TSDZ2b with 860c display and Open Source firmware (version: 0.20.1C-4). The problem is that at power on, the display first displays "Wait TSDZ2", followed by "Error brakes or comms" 30-40 seconds later. Checked and rechecked all cables -- no issues. I had read a few places that reflashing the Option Byte might fix this. Questions for you TSDZ2 experts out there:
1. Is it possible to reflash just the Option Byte since I want to maintain all the other settings?
2. If so, how would I go about it? I have the ST-Link cable and have downloaded all the necessary software.

Thanks in advance!

 

[dzid_]

1. Is it possible to reflash just the Option Byte since I want to maintain all the other settings?
2. If so, how would I go about it? I have the ST-Link cable and have downloaded all the necessary software.

Thanks in advance!

Yes.
You can use stvp. You can open this stvp project configuration from TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1/tools/ST_Vision_Programming.stp at master · emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1 or configure your CPU manually in the options menu.
Then open the option byte hex file and then program th ecurrent tab.

Alternatively you can use stm8flash tool. The command should be:

./stm8flash -c stlink -p stm8s105c4 -s opt -w option_stock.ihx

 

[ebike_builder]

Yes.
Use stvp. You can open this stvp project configuration from TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1/tools/ST_Vision_Programming.stp at master · emmebrusa/TSDZ2-Smart-EBike-1 or configure your CPU manually in the options
Then open the option byte hex file and then program th ecurrent tab.

Alternatively you can use stm8flash tool. The command should be:

./stm8flash -c stlink -p stm8s105c4 -s opt -w option_stock.ihx

@dzid_ -- thanks for the suggestions. I will give it a shot today and report back.

 

[ebike_builder]

@dzid_ -- thanks for the suggestions. I will give it a shot today and report back.

SUCCESS!! My first time using ST Visual Programmer and I had a few glitches. I had the battery turned on when I hooked up the ST-Link cable. When I tried to read each tab (PROGRAM MEMORY, DATA MEMORY, OPTION BYTE) all showed as zero and an error about the option byte appeared. So I then tried to program the option byte and a different error appeared that did mention powering off/on. After powering off/on the battery, the program of the OPTION BYTE succeeded. I then disconnected the ST-Link cable, reconnected the speed sensor, powered on, and voila, the display came up normal. Tested with throttle and worked perfectly.

This has been quite the ordeal when the actual solution was so simple -- reflashing the OPTION BYTE.

I believe what got my TSDZ2 into the "Error brakes or comms" state was accidentally powering on the display with the battery turned off. There must have been enough residual charge left that the display briefly flashed on and somehow the OPTION BYTE must have gotten corrupted in the controller. So avoid trying to power on your 860c display when your battery is turned off!

 

[dzid_]

I believe what got my TSDZ2 into the "Error brakes or comms" state was accidentally powering on the display with the battery turned off. There must have been enough residual charge left that the display briefly flashed on and somehow the OPTION BYTE must have gotten corrupted in the controller. So avoid trying to power on your 860c display when your battery is turned off!

I don't know about the display, but I always get failed flash if the wall charger is connected to the battery. I am not sure why (maybe power supply noise,.. but I don't have no ground loops - laptop powered from battery). - One time my flash got corrupted badly and I needed to boot the controller with RST pin grounded to establish communication. And even that only worked if I waited some time between trials (probably to fully power down the controller).

 

[ebike_builder]

I never had the [smart] charger connected to the battery when flashing. What I did not try was to do the flash without the battery powered on (thus only using USB power from my laptop).

 

[VPower]

Hello

My first post. Asking for help, of course. I'll be staying, since i'm now messing with a couple TSDZ2's

I just damaged the surface insulation of a torque sensor during cleaning, and i'd like to know if you think it's dead, or it wouldn't make a difference.

 

[beemac]

Hello

My first post. Asking for help, of course. I'll be staying, since i'm now messing with a couple TSDZ2's

I just damaged the surface insulation of a torque sensor during cleaning, and i'd like to know if you think it's dead, or it wouldn't make a difference.

View attachment 352513

It might still work, test the DC resistance, should be single digit ohms. If it's open circuit it's definitely toast. The coil slips against another so if the surface is rough that might also cause failure in future. Only way really to check is to put it back together and try it out..

Edit: oh I looked at the picture better and realised it's the inner ring, you can't easily test the resistance. Tbh your only option really is assemble it and see if it still works

 

[VPower]

It might still work, test the DC resistance, should be single digit ohms. If it's open circuit it's definitely toast. The coil slips against another so if the surface is rough that might also cause failure in future. Only way really to check is to put it back together and try it out..

Edit: oh I looked at the picture better and realised it's the inner ring, you can't easily test the resistance. Tbh your only option really is assemble it and see if it still works

Thank you. The wiring is perfect. I just rubbed it with a cloth and damaged the insulation. Hope it doesn´t affect operation

 

[endlessolli]

Hello

My first post. Asking for help, of course. I'll be staying, since i'm now messing with a couple TSDZ2's

I just damaged the surface insulation of a torque sensor during cleaning, and i'd like to know if you think it's dead, or it wouldn't make a difference.

View attachment 352513

If the wires are not impaced, it should stll work. Also, you can buy that insulation material (i.e. Aliexpress) by the meter to replace it. It looks like some copper stuff, but it is just a very thin fiber-reinforced adhesive tape. Somewhere in this or another TSDZ thread here posted some info about this tape.

 

[Zambam]

Hello

My first post. Asking for help, of course. I'll be staying, since i'm now messing with a couple TSDZ2's

I just damaged the surface insulation of a torque sensor during cleaning, and i'd like to know if you think it's dead, or it wouldn't make a difference.

View attachment 352513

The coil connects to the small circuit board on the shaft cutout via red/ black wires. Measure the coil resistance by puncturing the insulation with sharp pins. You should see less than 5 ohms. If so, it should be ok but the next concern may be the lifted insulation tape getting caught /bunched up during rotation and cause problems. Put it back together and try it. It it works, great. If it develops problems later you can replace the part. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251...1dfcca&afSmartRedirect=y&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

 

[eugeni1969]

Hello everyone.
I'm telling you about an error with my Tsdz2b. It has been running fine for 500 km. I have an updated mbrusa firmware and 850c screen installed. I start with normal pedaling and in any pause when pedaling again the motor accelerates to full speed (you hear the noise, and see the revolutions on the screen) but it does not assist. It only helps again with a little luck when I pause pedaling again, and always like that. Do you know what part it could be due to? I understand that the engine has 2 clutches. One is the large bearing on the chainring and the other is the white gear. Which of the two will it be? and why does it only give the error sometimes? thanks geniuses

 

[endlessolli]

Hello everyone.
I'm telling you about an error with my Tsdz2b. It has been running fine for 500 km. I have an updated mbrusa firmware and 850c screen installed. I start with normal pedaling and in any pause when pedaling again the motor accelerates to full speed (you hear the noise, and see the revolutions on the screen) but it does not assist. It only helps again with a little luck when I pause pedaling again, and always like that. Do you know what part it could be due to? I understand that the engine has 2 clutches. One is the large bearing on the chainring and the other is the white gear. Which of the two will it be? and why does it only give the error sometimes? thanks geniuses

If you have the ‚B‘ Version, there is no clutch anymore in the white (prior non-B: blue) gear. Instead there are 2 cluthes concentric on the big main gear. One of them is failing (wear starts wirh random failure occurences). Since to my knowledge at least one of the clutches is welded into the gear my advice would be to order a new main gesr (wich includes the 2 clutches. Just make sure to order the ‚B‘ Version. You could also try to clean the clutches, as a wesr out after only 500km seems a bit strange.