taiwwa
1 W
I have a bike with high end steel but I’m hesitant to install a mid drive on it. What is the best material to install? Alu?
It's highly likely that any middrive's casing is going to be made from cast / machined aluminum alloy of some type, but it doesn't really matter what material the middrive your'e going to install is made from; what matters is whether the drive will do what you want and will fit on the bike you need to use.I have a bike with high end steel but I’m hesitant to install a mid drive on it. What is the best material to install? Alu?
Sure, if all the pivots are crapped out. But that's what all full suspension frames are for-- consuming themselves and motivating you to buy something else. If you want something that starts rigid and stays rigid, don't have pivots.Kona Kikapu frame is like spaghetti
Or, service your pivots?Sure, if all the pivots are crapped out. But that's what all full suspension frames are for-- consuming themselves and motivating you to buy something else. If you want something that starts rigid and stays rigid, don't have pivots.
Throw good money after bad, you mean?Or, service your pivots?
I have a Raleigh Seneca Mountain Tour I bought new around 1987. Have not ridden it much so it is not worn out, just weathered from being kept outdoors for many years. I just weighed it at 32 lbs, has a chromoly frame. The bottom bracket is 68 mm (just measured). Would it be a good candidate for a mid drive conversion?
Does Chromoly rust? Where are the likely rust spots and how do I check? Surface rust is cosmetic and don't matter?If it's not rotted out beyond repair from exposure, that would be an excellent base for a mid drive conversion.
Note that if you add front suspension, it will raise the bike's top tube and bottom bracket, and adversely affect its steering geometry. So it's best if you don't do that.
Chromoly is steel, and it rusts. Yes, surface rust is usually only cosmetic; structurally damaging rust is rare on bikes and usually limited to ones ridden in road salt or kept outdoors near the ocean.Does Chromoly rust? Where are the likely rust spots and how do I check? Surface rust is cosmetic and don't matter?
It rides fine.
Does Chromoly rust? Where are the likely rust spots and how do I check? Surface rust is cosmetic and don't matter?
Won't know if rust will be a problem till I start taking it apart. I have a lot of experience with rusted nuts and bolts working on my own cars over the years that are 20 to 30 years old.Chromoly is steel, and it rusts. Yes, surface rust is usually only cosmetic; structurally damaging rust is rare on bikes and usually limited to ones ridden in road salt or kept outdoors near the ocean.
The rust that might be more significant to you is the rust that causes components to become stuck in the frame. If your seatpost and stem both slide out when loosened, then you probably have a good enough foundation to work with. Probably the hubs, headset, and bottom bracket bearings will all need to be overhauled. Certainly brake pads and all the cables and housings will have to be replaced if they're original.
Thanks for the link to the casing! Before I order it, I want to hook up the motor to the LCD3 display and throttle and see if the motor runs. Bike it was on was never ridden. The casing broke during setup (maybe due to insufficient torque on mounting bolts).Around $48 shipped from pswpower, if all you need is the TSDZ2 casing. Make sure it's the TSDZ2 and not the TSDZ2B,
TONGSHENG TSDZ2 electric bicycle Mid Motor die casting shell motor case or motor cover
TONGSHENG TSDZ2 electric bicycle Mid Motor die casting shell motor case or motor coverpswpower.com
I tried to remove the aluminum crank arms today that's never been touched since 87. The nuts came off easily but the cranks were stuck real good. I couldn't find my pickle fork and used a 90 degree long nose pliers (which works like an adjustable pickle fork) and a hammer. It wouldn't budge with lot's of penetrating fluid and hammering. I thought maybe if I went for a ride, it will work itself loose. After a few miles the cranks didn't move. On an uphill section I pedaled as hard as I could on low gear. Shortly after that the left crank came off. The right crank did not get any penetrating oil and is still stuck. I need to go for another ride with penetrating fluid applied and hope I get the same result.I don't see problem with an old Raleigh. I converted a 1970's Raleigh two years ago, Altogether, fitted mid drives to four old bikes. Two Tongsheng and two Bafang,
One bike had the aluminum pedal arms fused to the steel BB axle. If you're an old car mechanic, a pickle fork will pop that arm right off, but I cut the arm off. Another bike had some casting debris inside the BB shell that needed to be ground away. That's not uncommon. All in a day's work.
........