48V or 36V presets should work, since most cheap controllers don't have a high voltage cutoff/HVC. The low voltage cutoff matters, so if you set the preset to 60V, the 52V pack will hit cutoff too early, so the full capacity won't be useable.
52V isn't a "standard" voltage*, so there are fewer controllers with displays available that specifically support 52V. There are more now than there were 5 or so years ago, but still rare for the numerous silver boxes sent over from China. But for the most part, a controller that supports 48V will also work with 52V packs, mainly because the electronic components used work within a voltage range that includes 58.8V (fully charged 14S pack). Sadly that being the case, most displays or battery level indicators will read full charge on a 52V battery, even when it's less than half charged (I have a battery pack with a button that makes the charge level LEDs light up, and it never goes below full bars; useless). Luckily many displays also have an option to display actual voltage, which is much more reliable, but requires some simple mental math to figure out how much you have left.
*The "standard" ebike nominal voltages are all multiples of 12V. So 24V, 36V, 48V, 60V, 72V, 84V, 96V, 108V...
The best solution is a programable controller, or Grin's Cycle Analyst, they don't depend on presets. I never look at it, but my CA has a reasonably accurate battery display, since you tell it exactly what type of battery chemistry and pack configuration you have, and that calibrates the "bars".
Has no effect on speed. 52V battery will result in 15/14 times faster speeds than a 48V battery, regardless of using a 48V controller.
PS. You'll need to monitor your battery voltage, since the LVC for 48V will be too low for 52V. The battery BMS may cutoff, at some point, but it's not good for the battery to go that low.
