If u don’t have pedals you can’t go over the Golden Gate Bridge! Also it now becomes obviously illegal. I’d get a wider bottom bracket to get the cranks and pedals wider. Even better would be to get freewheeling cranks and do a jackshaft
You wanna know what "bonkers" really is? With a dinky 9t spinning at six grand, you'll likely be doing roadside chain re-installs on regular basis. That is... unless the chain decides to exit to the inside, and snag the rear wheel... potentially locking it.
Freewheeling crankset with wider bottom bracket so can fit pedals and a jackshaft would be the normal way
a 126t using a #25 chain sounds reasonable and it’s got a 1/4” pitch vs a common 8-speed chain with 1/2” pitch. So half the diameter. I use 70t with 8-speed chains and that’s commonly done. Better yet do a 140 or 150t and also increase the motor sprocket teeth count a couple .. but that’s a guess and I’d do the freewheeling cranks n jackshaft.
Bicycle chain has an extraordinary high strength to weight ratio compared to industrial chain.
Also consider bike chains are designed to operate at much lower RPM.
3 piece allows options for very wide spindles that may help the cranks clear the motor.
Sprocket bolted to the hub could help slow the bike depending on the controller.
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Beware, sprocket terminology is confusing.
"Sprocket teeth' should be "motor teeth"
Chainring teeth" should be "drive wheel teeth"
enjoy
3 piece allows options for very wide spindles that may help the cranks clear the motor.
Sprocket bolted to the hub could help slow the bike depending on the controller.
Thank you to everyone who had input for me! I have a good amount of info here to work from… I appreciate all of your help and I’ll update once I’ve accomplished addressing my set of issues with my build.
Another option you have is just rewiring your batteries to parallel the 4 36v packs to halve the motor speed. You should still be able to hit 2500ish watts with your 66amp controller. You could go to a bigger motor sprocket and then maybe still have to go smaller on the rear.
Another option you have is just rewiring your batteries to parallel the 4 36v packs to halve the motor speed. You should still be able to hit 2500ish watts with your 66amp controller. You could go to a bigger motor sprocket and then maybe still have to go smaller on the rear.
That controller is huge for only doing 66amps. For 80$ could get a vesc 75100 or similar and do 100 and use the motor as a regen rear brake to simplify with two-way throttle, also can hook up Bluetooth to see lots of stuff, run a foc program so smoother and quieter, and it can do either voltage. I’d do 72 and do the biggest chainring u can find with a #35 chain
Often times you have to look outside of the "project" type parts and use pieces from other industries to create what you need!
I ordered an even higher RPM motor than what you have. I think I'll be using the rear pulley off a 454LTD and unless I come up with something better I'll have the drive pully made.
With using these high speed motors that you’re running slowly it works but you’re turning a Ferrari into a Toyota. At least you need to get a controller that can put out a lot of amps or it’s a double-weak Toyota.
I've seen adapters to put u-brakes like you have in the rear in place of the side pull you'd have to use on that fork. That seems like it'd be an improvement.
#35 sprockets exist up to at least 85t, if you can tolerate the noise and chain wear from the 9t you might be able to make your single stage work. I think I would
I'd think you also need to find a way to stop over drawing your batteries. If that controller isn't programmable you could use a cycle analyst to limit the current, or maybe add another parallel group on the front of the handle bars.
I bought 2 more 36v batteries to put in parallel for the current draw. Still looking into either a 2 stage gearing deal or if I wanna go with the 114t rear sprocket with a free spinning sprocket to add chain wrap to the 9t
With using these high speed motors that you’re running slowly it works but you’re turning a Ferrari into a Toyota. At least you need to get a controller that can put out a lot of amps or it’s a double-weak Toyota.
Long as the gearing is correct or at the minimum in the correct range then these high RPM motors with matching controllers should run like a scalded dog!