Recent content by Dui ni shuo de dui

Thanks! The problem I see on this method is the following: Let's say that without the engine running the battery sits at 12.00 V Then I switch the engine on and it starts charging, it will show 13.5V This only tells me part of the story. The reason is that this voltage will constantly change...

Interesting, thanks! So you mean there's no device limiting the voltage on the charging side? Only a BMS set up for a 14.6V limit? What happens when the BMS cuts? Did it already happen to you during driving? I wouldn't worry to much about the charging current, these A123 pouch cells can take a...

Hello guys, My lead acid car battery has been showing signs of aging recently and it will probably be time to replace it within a few months. Just to be clear, it's not an electric car, it's a petrol engine and I'm talking about the battery that helps with cranking and whatnot. I'm toying with...

I guess it depends on which brand, what battery chemistry and how you drive, but here in Shanghai we have a nice return of experience since pretty much all taxis have been converted to electric years ago. It's not rare at all to see taxis with 350 000+ kilometers on the odometer and still doing...

Not much going on recently as I'm working on other projects. The bike still runs great, no problem at all. One remaining issue I had was that my headlights' plastics are low quality and they tend to deteriorate extremely fast under the sun exposure. They get all yellowish and blurry in just a...

All of my motorcycles have the brake signal to the controller disconnected, for the very reason you plan on disconnecting yours which is that it can be annoying for manoeuvring at low speeds sometimes. The only downside is that you lose a bit of safety in case of throttle malfunction, but as...

If the LED isn't on it means that your controller isn't receiving power. So it's probably your ignition wire that doesn't work, for some reason. I suggest you simply temporarily connect a wire directly from your battery positive to the controller ignition signal. The LED should then switch on...

Glad you managed to connect, that's great news! It's hard to answer without seeing all the configuration you've done in all the tabs, could you share some screenshots? Have you done the motor calibration yet?

Normally you go to "devices and printers" in the setting panels of windows, then you should be able to see which port com has been assigned. Are you sure you plugged the cable the right way? I never had an issue with this step, it always worked first try for me. Never used the bluetooth on...

Doing the exact same thing is on my to do list, hopefully someday! I will follow this thread with great interest. I suggest you get a more powerful Fardriver if you still can. This one won't be too weak, but it won't be as crazy as it could be

You don't need that much power if you have a good insulation and aren't in a hurry. I've built a small electric furnace that gets up to 850 Degree celsius in 25 minutes using only 1600W of power. I did a few aluminum castings with it and it worked great. Of course the volume is a lot smaller...

Very nice, it's looking great. Also it seems like its pretty quick already Anything planned for the brakes? They might need a bit of upgrade now :p

Ah yeah, I meant open of course. :p

I strongly recommend you to get the quick change tool post. This is what transformed my mini lathe from a barely usable tool to an actually, really useful one. It is a little bit expensive, but it makes a huge difference. Take a new tool, drop it in there, tighten the lever and you're good to...

This contradicts my experience, at least with the ANT BMS I actually never had one fail shorted, I had one who couldn't activate its mosfets anymore, but they remained closed (Edit: Opened, not closed). And the thing is able to detect that something is wrong with the mosfets, it will then beep...